evasive_chimpanzee

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 3 points 6 hours ago (1 children)

That's exactly how you do it. It's not same-day, but if you really need a passport same day, you probably messed something up, lol.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 9 hours ago (2 children)

If it is expired, I don't think you can do it. Just if you are in the last year of validity.

[–] [email protected] 8 points 10 hours ago (6 children)

That's how it has been in the US. Now, though, if you already have a passport, you can renew online and take the picture yourself, and get it mailed directly to you.

The thing that makes getting a passport slightly tricky to begin with in some circumstances is needing proper ID. In the US, there's no generalized law saying that you have to have certain forms of ID. Most people use drivers licenses as ID, but obviously not everyone has one (by choice or as a consequence of drunk driving). There are a lot of people without ID, and there are ways to get ID, but they can be difficult for people without resources. A birth certificate is hard to get if you don't have one already, especially if you don't know where you were born.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

occasionally push it to near boiling temperatures.

So I'm guessing you have some kind of mixing valve set up to handle this going out? Also, are the tanks rated to that high of temperatures?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago (1 children)

That's probably most similar to what we'd call "flaked corn", but it's not something that we see commonly in stores (in America, at least). It is somewhat similar to "corn flakes" which are different.

It's mainly used for brewing and distilling, and it's made by taking dry corn, partially cooking it with water, putting it through a roller mill, and then drying it out.

Reading about farinha de milho, it actually might be similar to "corn flakes", though. It's a breakfast cereal made by taking ground corn and cooking it in water, and then drying it out in little sheets. It is super common to use as an ingredient in things like fried chicken batter, or as a topping to things you want to be crispy.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago (1 children)

I've taken up bringing an instant read with me when I expect I may have to cook at someone's house. Nothing worse than trying to make a prime rib at someone's house, a getting handed one of those analog dial thermometers that doesn't even have numbers on it, just "rare, medium, well done".

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

For ground beef, especially, too many people try to chop it all up and get it "gray". I don't eat beef often, but when I do make ground beef, I basically treat it like making a hamburger: salt it immediately prior to placing in a hot pan, and don't touch it until there is browned crust, and then try to flip it and get a crust on the other side. Only then will I break it up into little pieces. If you have too much meat to do that, you are better off getting a good sear on half of the meat, and tossing in the other half later, than trying to do all of it and basically just boiling the meat in juices.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 2 days ago (3 children)

occasionally heat the tank up to 70°C+ to kill off any bacteria that might be growing in it.

Is that a built in function of your fancy water heater, or is that something you just go do periodically as part of maintenance?

I'd love to get one of those heat pump water heaters. Seems like a win-win to dehumidify the space.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 2 days ago

I've read that red variants of veggies like cabbage get less attacked by caterpillars, and anecdotally, it seems to be true. It makes sense that insects would be evolved to target the more "natural" color.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 days ago

You've gotten a lot of great responses already. Basically, the weak point in a shoe is the foam, and you start to feel the foam go before you see it. That's one reason it's nice to have a few pairs of shoes to rotate through. You can run in one pair, and the next time you do a similar length/time in the other pair, and you'll be able to start to feel when your ankles/knees/back or whatever get sore for no reason.

In terms of the distance you get, it really depends on speed, your weight, your technique (heavy heel strikers probably wear through shoes quicker), and the surface you run on. Possibly the biggest factor is the amount of midsole foam, though. The foam stilts that are popular these days may only last you 400 km, while a more typical shoe gets 800 km.

Like another commenter said, "barefoot" shoes can last a very long time. You probably don't want to go all-in on those unless you want to do some more homework on them, but it's something to consider if you are budget constrained.

What I do now is just stick to a brand that I know works for me. Shoes are built on "lasts" which are basically a foot-like form. Traditionally, they'd be a wooden thing that a cobbler would wrap leather, etc, around. Now, it's basically just the 3D foot model. If you get 2 shoes built on the same last, they are going to fit your foot similarly, so it's not so bad to buy online. They make new model numbers every year or so, and when a new model is in, the old model goes on sale. When they got 50% off, I'll buy a couple pairs. Obviously that only works if you have the money/space to do it, but it is helpful.

[–] [email protected] 30 points 6 days ago

Here is a really good article about the topic. The gist is that typically in mountaineering, there's not often an official definition of the "start point", but the "end point" is back at the start, so people who die midway on the return journey don't "count". The "top" should be easy to define, but often, the top of a mountain is a large area, and you aren't going to hike around looking for which part is just barely the highest. Also, some true summits are habitually avoided as sacred places to the locals.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 6 days ago (1 children)

I think it ends up being the same amount of work for me. Rinse rice (optional), figure out correct amount of water for that type of rice, place on heat until done. Rice cookers can effectively detect that there's no more liquid water, but that isn't the same as "done" unless you used the right amount of water.

IMO, rice cookers are really handy if you are the type of person who eats rice as a staple food item that you buy in giant sacks and eat the same variety of every day. I have like 6 kinds of rice I rotate through, so I think it wouldn't save me enough work to justify a separate gadget.

I've never used one of the really fancy pressure cooker rice cookers, though, so maybe my feelings would be different.

 

I have a 100 W rigid solar panel including a charge controller that I currently only use for camping to charge batteries (also useful in an emergency at home). It strikes me as a waste that I could be generating more clean energy with equipment that I already have, but I don't have anything in mind to use this energy for.

Obviously I could try to tie it into my home to run more of my household on solar, or buy more/bigger batteries to charge, but with 100 W of generation, it's probably not worth it without a significantly increased investment.

I tried searching around online, and I found plenty of discussion for what to do with a whole house that generates excess capacity (mainly sell to the grid), but nothing really on what to do with small scale DC generation.

Anyone here have thoughts?

 

Does anyone have a good method for dealing with plant debris? I'm thinking about things like stems from plants, or even just pruned bits. I don't have a place to compost effectively. My normal method for woody debris is to cut it to little pieces with garden shears, and for leafy stuff to just let it dry out and crunch it up. After, I'll just stick it in the bottom of a pot that I'm going to put a new plant in. It gets a little broken down, but not as well as I'd like, and I can only do it when I have a new plant to pot, so I end up with a random pile of stuff that sits around for a while.

I wish I had like a tiny woodchipper or something.

 

I've been using my grinder (Baratza maestro plus) for ten years now, and I got it used. I've replaced some parts (e.g., burrs), but I'm wondering if it's finally time to let it go. It seems like it's not grinding as consistently as it once was, but I'm thinking it would be good to quantify it.

I've seen sieves used to classify ground coffee, specifically, the brand Kruve seems to be a nice implementation. It's $90 for the cheapest version, though, which doesn't quite seem worth it to me. It seems like it'd be better to just spend the money going towards a new grinder, but I figured it would be good to ask for anyone's experience here.

 

Hi everyone,

I looked through this community, and I didn't see much discussion of the use of CAD for woodworking, so I figured it was worth a post. I learned CAD ages ago, and I've used it sparingly in my professional life since then. I'm working on a project now that would benefit from CAD, so I figured I'd try to get up and running with a software for personal use.

I know sketchup and fusion360 have long been the major players for woodworkers, but I am wary of "free" personal use licenses that can be removed or degraded at any time. As this is Lemmy, I'm sure plenty of you are interested in FOSS options as well. I know there are some programs out there specifically for woodworking, but if I'm going to learn a new software, I want it to be more general purpose so I can use it to make things for 3D printing, etc, if needed. I also want something parametric to be able to easily change designs. For those of you unaware of what that means, it basically means that you can design things with variables instead of exact numbers. That way you can punch in numbers later on to easily update your design. In my case, I'm making cabinet doors in a few different sizes, and I'll be able to generate plans for different doors with only 1 model. Theoretically, I could upload the design for anyone else to use/modify as well on a place like thingiverse (someone give me a shout if they are secretly horrible or something, I'm generally wary of providing value to a corporation for free).

This all drove me to FreeCAD. FreeCAD is a FOSS CAD software that has a huge range of different capabilities. The different tools are divided into "workbenches" of different uses such as architectural drafting, 3d printing, openSCAD etc. There are also user created workbenches that you can install. There's even one specifically for woodworking (that I haven't used yet).

I've started into some tutorials, and most of them are focused on building a single widget. While that's great if you are planning on making something to 3d print, us woodworkers are usually assembling different parts. The tutorials for woodworking specifically I've followed along with so far seem to follow the same workflow:

First, a spreadsheet is set up to establish all the parameters you want to be able to change, then, each part is designed individually. Finally, all of the pieces are brought together and assembled.

While this is great if you already have a design in mind or an object, and you are trying to make a model of it, it's not the way I would ideally go about conceptualizing a new design. To make a nightstand, for example, my preferred methodology would be to assemble some simple rectangular panels to represent the top, bottom, back, front, left, and right. After those are in place, I'd start adding joinery, details like routed edges, and cutting out space for a door. It doesn't seem like freecad is necessarily set up to do things that way, though I could be wrong. This might even be how the woodworking workbench does things, I just figured I'd start learning the default workbenches first.

Anyone else use freecad or another CAD software? What's your workflow like? Want me to report back once I've had more time to play around with it and learn some stuff?

 

I've had irrigation running on my porch for a few years now, so I figured it was worth making a post about how it works, and the pros and cons of it. I'm by no means an expert.

Pros:

  • you don't have to worry about plants drying out on a hot weekend while you are out of town.
  • you can grow plants in smaller containers than you'd otherwise be able to
  • you can put plants in spots that would be annoying to water by hand

Cons:

  • it's a lot of plastic. Typically the tubing is polyethylene or vinyl.
  • you need to drain it in the winter
  • it takes some time to figure out how to get the right amount of water to your plants
  • the system that I have (and most off-the-shelf systems, I think) is not compatible with a rain barrel.
  • you need a hose spigot

I have a porch with a lot of plants. My roof hangs over the porch, so I don't get any rain on my plants, and they are completely dependent on watering. This would typically work fine all throughout the spring, but then once summer comes, and the plants need more water, I'd inevitably lose some plants while I'm out of town. I can have friends water plants like my indoor plants that maybe need to be watered once a week, but I'm not going to ask someone to water 30 outdoor plants twice a day.

There are a few different common types of automatic irrigation systems. The most common you've probably seen is little sprinklers. Those are not ideal for containerized plants because you'd waste a lot of water, and get your porch/balcony really wet. Theres also things like soaker hoses which arent useful in our case. The type that I have, and recommend, is drip irrigation. It does exactly what it sounds like and drips water right where you want it.

There's two types of drip irrigation, and two subcategories of each. Individual emitters or emitter tubing, and each of those are available as simple emitters or pressure compensating. Individual emitters are just single droppers, and tubing is what it sounds like, a tube with a bunch of holes in it at regular intervals. The single droppers come in different sizes for different flow rates, and they are generally more convenient than the emitter tubing unless you have a big planter bed or something where you put a loop of the tubing.

If you think about a tube with a bunch of holes in it, the most water will come out of the first hole, and each subsequent hole will put out less and less, until eventually, for a long enough tube, nothing would come out. The water that comes out would also be dependent on what your water pressure is. To use that kind of system, you have to be crafty about it, and maybe arange your plants or run the tubing from thirstiest to least thirsty. Pressure compensating emitters somewhat solve this problem by outputting the same amount of water, as long as the water is somewhere between the highest normal household water pressure and a pretty low pressure. I can tell you firsthand that they dont work perfectly, and you'll have some that put out water faster than others, but it's mostly okay. I actually rearranged my plants to just put the more needy ones under the fastest drippers.

One thing you need to always keep in mind is the pressure of the water. I have no clue what the actual numbers are for my water pressure is, so let's say it's at 10 where it comes out of the house. It then passes through the timer (more on that later), which might nock off 1 unit of pressure. The water then has to travel up a floor of my house to where my plants are. The change in height might nock off another unit, and the resistance of that long stretch of skinny tubing might nock off another. Now it's down to 7. Each emitter might take .5 units. Once we get down to 1 unit of pressure, there isn't enough to push past the mechanism inside of the emitters, so you can't have any plants past that point. If you follow the math, that gives me 12 emitters. Technically, the emitters dont reduce the pressure in the main tube, they reduce the flow, which leads to a corresponding drop in pressure. Obviously, bigger diameter tubing can carry more water and water more plants. This is all why a rain barrel would be hard to use, the pressure will be pretty low unless your barrel is up much higher than your plants. Any debris from the barrel could easily clog the drippers, too.

I have probably 30 plants on that system, but I was only able to have about 12 with a single line of irrigation tubing, which in the US, at least, is 1/4 inch diameter. I had to run 1/2 inch supply tubing, and I have branches off of that with the 1/4 inch tubing. You might think that tubing with 4 times the cross sectional area could carry 4 times the water, but it's actually way more than that because of math reasons I don't need to get into.

The emitters come in different sizes, rated in volume per hour. I have basically all one size because I can always put 2 in a bigger pot.

The last thing to mention is the timer. The cheapest ones just have analog dials for "water for x minutes every y hours or days". Figuring out how much water to give takes some time. To start, I would make sure all of the plants are not sitting in completely dry soil. Dry soil, especially with peat in it like lots of potting mix, does not absorb water well, so water might roll off to the side, and down the edge of the container and out the drain holes. Then I'd run the water till you see it start to drip out of the drain holes a lot indicating that the soil is full. Then I'd back it off from that point by a bit. My emitters are rated for 1/2 gallon per hour, and in the spring, with seedlings and cool weather, I might run them for 5 minutes every day or every other day. When it gets to the summer, I have my timer water twice a day, with 10 mi uses in the morning, and another 5 minutes during the heat of the day. I have a "smart" timer that lets me have slightly more complicated schedules like that. If you are a tech savvy person, you could set up automatic rain delay.

Lastly, I'm not trying to promote any particular products over others, but this is the kit I started with, and I've expanded from there. It seems like the components are all fairly standardized in size, at least in the US, so you can mix and match from different companies to problem.

Hope that helps some people, and feel free to ask any questions.

TL;DR, irrigation is pretty useful and easy to set up.

 

Every Thanksgiving since I was a child, I've had to make something for Thanksgiving. Typically, and I think this goes for many Americans (and presumably Canadians cause they have a similar Thanksgiving), this involves sharing the kitchen with way too many cooks. It can be difficult to know what tools you'll have in an unfamiliar kitchen, and when/if you'll be able to use the stove, oven, etc.

I'm trying to move things towards a better model, where I make the entire menu, and other people are responsible for drinks and cleanup, but there are always holdouts determined whatever particular dish they feel strongly about.

My normal approach is:

  • Insist on making the turkey. The turkey is the most common thing people mess up, and it sucks to have to choke down dry turkey.
  • Bring an insane amount of my kitchen with me. Words can't describe how frustrating it is to try to cook with only the world's dullest knives, a thermometer that starts at 160 F for "rare beef", and only a salt shaker of iodized salt.
  • Do as many "make ahead of time" or "make outside of the kitchen" dishes as possible. Sous vide sweet potatoes, salads, etc.

What are your methods for ensuring that your Thanksgiving meal doesn't suck?

P.s. My packing list for things to bring to cook at another person's house contains:

Thermometers, knives, shears, a scale, cutting boards, rimmed baking sheets, cooling racks, a vegetable peeler, a microplane, a pepper grinder, kosher salt, aprons, a big mixing bowl or two, a cake tester, a bread knife, a citrus juicer, a few Mason jars, butcher twine, a gravy separator, all the herbs and spices I'll need, a high wall saute pan, a sturdy frying pan, baking soda, baking powder, yeast, lemons, limes, butter, my sous vide circulator, heavy duty foil, and a liquid measuring cup.

Anything you think I'm missing?

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