Woodworking

Walnut and maple., it's an inch and a quarter thick, 12 1/2 inches wide and about 17 inches long. While it is an end grain cutting board I actually built it with kneading dough in mind, I don't intend to cut on this one, not for awhile anyway. Built it this weekend and baked some bread with it today. Which is why my mixer is covered in flour. I'm really happy with this one.

Walnut and maple., it's an inch and a quarter thick, 12 1/2 inches wide and about 17 inches long. While it is an end grain cutting board I actually built it with kneading dough in mind, I don't intend to cut on this one, not for awhile anyway. Built it this weekend and baked some bread with it today. Which is why my mixer is covered in flour. I'm really happy with this one.

Do you have a favorite workbench? What kind of features does it have?

Just looking for some inspiration.

Do you include things like particle board, MDF, plywood etc? Is there a line? And if so, what is it for you?

Hey, I am asking here because I found no better community.

I am using Epoxy Resin quite a lot simply for glueing stuff together, not the other type for like transparent furniture and all.

I glued something but added too much resin and too little of the "Härter" compound.

So it stays sticky.

I read heat could help but doubt it. Do I need to remove it and apply again?

It took lots of repetition honing, stropping, going through setup, realizing the chip breaker was right on the edge of the blade, repeat, new error. The first picture is progress: small and crunchy, long and crinkley, long and papery.

Sharpening using Atoma 400/600/1200 diamond plates + a strop I had around. I found Wood By Wright's setup video helpful and have been enjoying Rex Kreuger's videos on sharpening and other things.

I worked so hard for these shavings, surely there's something fun to do with them.

I've designed a 3D printable sharpening angle jig for your chisel and planer knife. Works with those cheap triangle shaped blade holders you can find almost anywhere for cheap. Check it out if you're got a 3D printer.

I made a box joint jig following [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyJof__nTR4](Woodfather's video). It's a nice simple/flexible design for those of us without a dado stack.

First try was very sloppy, but once I adjusted the key width and got my clamps set up better the fit is great. The scraps I had around were bed slats off the curb, which were very cupped. But they actually turned out pretty nicely (after plenty of cleanup).

Boiled linseed oil finish.

I have a 1920's roll-top desk that is in okay condition but needs restoration.

I got it off the side of a driveway thinking I would restore it but I just have too many projects.

At this point I would like to give it to anyone who would want it. Anyone have any ideas? I don't really want to do craigslist or anything like that because I don't want a bunch of random folks coming to my house.

There is a lot more checking than I realized, and I'm afraid filling these gaps by just pouring in epoxy will be difficult. I want to keep the live edge and avoid making a complete deep pour epoxy mold. Some of these gaps go all the way through The 2-in slab. Any tips for me?

Most parts are cnc-carved. The body is usually carved from a single block of wood, but for my cnc, I split it into three parts, including a decorative strip of amaranth.

Vibrating string length 29.5cm (3/4 violin). Strings are Aquila F-Red superior tension, G-D-A.

Materials used: maple, spruce, amaranth, ebony.

Some build pics:

Continued from previous posts. As usual, it took longer than expected, but here are the rims all bent and blocked up. Next steps will be getting the tops and backs all braced up and voiced. After that I’ll install the kerfed lining and side braces, do some final bowl sanding, notch the lining and finally put the boxes together. Simple as that.

Should have more to share in the coming weeks.

Thanks for the support! Happy to answer any questions!

Noob here

I have a wooden sheet of plywood that acts as a protective topper for an outdoor bath tub (don't ask). I'm looking for a way to add folding legs to the underside that will rest in the bath tub when the topper is on, and fold out to form a table sitting alongside the bathtub while it's in use

Not that big, but it would still be interesting. I pulled some honey locust from our firewood pile a few years back and incorporated it into a desk. It has a fairly boring grain pattern, but I like the color a lot.

Not sure how many hand tool users there are here but I’m going to buy a new plane and am debating between a plow plane or a combination plane (both Veritas). Plow plane gets me what I need today which is cutting grooves, dadoes, etc but the combination obviously gets a bit more in functionality and available blade shapes plus it has nickers on both sides so reversible direction. I already have a router plane with a fence which is almost as good as a plow but not quite. Trying to figure out if combination plane has any down sides to it at all that I’m not thinking about before I pull the trigger on it.

My first time building any sort of furniture. I'm a journeyman redseal carpenter in Canada and spent my career building houses for 15 years and recently started a new job where I have access to a shop and some better tools.

I made a low Roman bench out of a piece of bowling alley that was being trashed and some old fence posts. I fitted the legs with slanted mortise and tenon joints and realized that was a lot of work, so I did the other side with bored out round mortise and tenons, which was somewhat easier. There is a notch in place of a full vice, and I mad e a “crochet hook” attachment for wedging up large boards for edge planing, but it split so I’ll need to figure out a different grain direction.

More pics:

• square mortise
• round mortise
• wooden bench dog
• notch vise
• round mortise needed a peg
• crochet hook

I also made a new joiners mallet. My other one’s handle broke because it was pretty soft. The head is a chunk of 3” thick red maple that I’ll use to make my full-sized bench top, and the handle is something dense (oak?). I had to slim down the end of the handle so it would fit through the head. I cut the curve of the handle by cross-cutting lines and then chunking them off with a hatchet and smoothing it off with a spokeshave.

I didnt have an actual mortise chisel, so I essentially had to chisel out the whole mortise. I plan to go back and clean up the fit a little better and smooth out the edges later. I’ll use both of these to make a larger bench to work with, and use the Roman bench as a sawhorse.

Pics:

• joiners mallet
• head
• handle
• starting handle
• smoothing handle
• starting head
• making handle smaller to fit
• cleaning out head

Bought this black walnut cookie off of Facebook marketplace for a good price. The only catch is it is warped, cracked, cupped, and twisted. It's about 4 in thick and that's plenty of material to make a coffee table, but I need some advice and guidance on making a router planing jig please.

I have a workpiece that I want to give an oil finish, but a certain area needs to stay oil-free, because I need to attach a part later on using hide glue. What masking method is safe for oil?

The potting bench has a hole so that soil can be brushed into the bucket below. I was able to salvage some of the older boards from the old pile of junk that stood there before, which are in the roof. Speaking of the roof, see how some of it is clear? I’m going to build a cold frame into that part of the roof for hardening off plants! I’m having a hard time deciding how to do that but though.

The wife wants gravel on the ground but I’m not so sure. I think that the gravel will just end up filling with dirt and debris and weeds. I think I might prefer to just leave it bare earth. What do you think?

With their 'Tale of the Cedar Planter Box.' This beautiful planter is now the new icon for our community and they are credited on our sidebar! Question for the winner: what would you choose for our next theme if we do another contest in the fall or winter?

I need to drill holes at exact positions to affix large workpieces to my cnc for two-sided machining. My drill press is not large enough to reach all drilling positions, and drilling by hand often results in a non-90° angle. I know for metalworking there are magnet drill presses to drill holes in steel beams. But is there something similar for wood?