[–] 5 points 3 days ago (1 child)

This is the only way that makes sense. Lots of people complain when a politician breaks campaign promises like:

"I am going to lower the cost of living".

It's not really a lie when they fail cause it isnt just up to them. Weaker wording like:

"I am going to try to lower the cost of living"

Would be technically non-falsifiable, but not actually matter to people.

The only things that I think would actually make sense to prosecute are intentional misrepresentation of facts, or decisions that are directly in their power.

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  • Some beans are meant for eating green and whole, some are meant for eating freshly shelled, some are meant for shelling and drying, and some are a double or triple threat.

    If you grow a bean that's meant to be cooked in the pod, you need to pick relatively early, otherwise they can get stringy.

    If you pick a bean that's meant to be dried too early, they will be underdeveloped.

    Try to find out what type you have. Judging by the fact that they are so long, and that you bought them from a grocery store, I'm going to guess that these are yardlong/snake/noodle beans from H-mart. A quick read on those shows that they are normally eaten young and whole as a green bean. If you have some that are really big, they might be too far along, and you'll need to wait for them to fully develop so you can shell them.

    Tl;dr, like the other commenter said, you picked too early and too late.

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  • "Genuine leather" isnt technically bad, it's just a very broad and not useful term.

    It literally just means exactly what it says, that it's not fake leather. You could take full thickness of a hide and label that genuine leather (though "full grain" would be a better descriptor). You could also take a bunch of suede scraps, glue them together, and coat it in polyurethane to look like a full grain, and label that "genuine leather".

    You might have an actually decent leather. Nowadays, since people are more savvy to the meaninglessness of the term, reputable leather goods are typically not marked "genuine leather" since it has a negative connotation, but maybe not when you bought your wallet.

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  • [–] 7 points 5 days ago (2 children)

    Well, time to stop using cordura on my projects, lol. There are many fabrics that perform better and weigh less now, anyway.

    Let's hope the Avient corporation (dyneema) and Bainbridge international (challenge sailcloth) are better than Koch (it would be hard to be worse).

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  • [–] 14 points 5 days ago (3 children)

    I grew up near a road that I swear did the opposite of this. Drive the limit, and you hit every light, drive 5 over the limit, and you get endless green. Didn't help that the road was a horrible stroad that visually facilitated cars going easily 20 over. Coincidentally the local police also kept like 75% of the on-duty cops on that road.

    Light timing has got to be really complicated, so the approach seems like it couldn't work everywhere, but where it can be implemented, it seems like a no brainer.

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  • [–] 8 points 6 days ago (1 child)

    Sumatra in general is pretty polarizing. Sumatran coffee is usually wet hulled. Basically, instead of drying beans with the parchment on, which protects the bean from oxygen, they remove the parchment while the bean is still wet. This lets them dry the coffee quicker, but it oxidizes.

    It's almost like a pu'er tea compared to regular black tea.

    In a similar vein is monsooned coffee from Malabar (southwest india) where it's exposed to rains for a while after drying. I probably won't like it, but I want to try it.

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  • [–] 3 points 1 week ago (1 child)

    Parmesan, in particular, is a really hard cheese to emulsify, mainly just cause it's dry. "Traditional" Alfredo (as in from the original restaurant that gave it it's name), was made with young parmesan. To be parmesan (well, Parmigiano Reggiano), it has to be aged at least 12 months, but at least where I live, it's usually sold aged at least 24 months. This means drier, and even more difficult to emulsify.

    If you can get really young parm, use that, and also make sure to grate it really finely. I often get lazy and grate it on my box grater, and it won't work well. It only works well if I use a microplane.

    If you care about traditional ingredients, but not methodology, you can pull some pasta water off to the side, and keep it hot, but not boiling, and stir in the parmesan bit by bit. It helps greatly if you add sodium citrate to the water before adding the cheese. After the cheese has turned into a sauce, you can throw in some butter.

    Parmesan doesnt really "melt" since it is too low moisture. To make a sauce, you are basically trying to dissolve the proteins into a liquid, which takes some time, and you can't rush it by cranking up the heat.

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    I recently picked up Crafted With Pride. It is basically a directory for brands who actually manufacture stuff in America (with a section for Canada, too). There are many many tiny brands making great stuff that you'll never hear about because they dont advertise. It's not "BIFL" necessarily as much as it's "buy local", but obviously there's a lot of overlap in those sentiments. A lot of them are literally 1 man shops.

    The book is just clothes, bedding, shoes, bags, and other accessories. It's arranged by category, but there's also an index by state.

    The appendices are great, though, because they also have a section for private label manufacturers (so you can have stuff made if you want), material suppliers (including a dedicated "union-made" section), repair shops, advocacy groups, and educational groups.

    The appendices are mostly aimed towards businesses, but I'm going to go through my copy and mark which suppliers sell direct to consumer.

    I wish they had an online index, cause that would make it way easier to search for stuff, but this book is clearly a labor of love from a small team, so I understand they want to make some money on sales. If you want me to look anything up for you (e.g., a leather goods company in Alabama), leave a comment here (or message me) and I'll get back to you.

     

    It's the time to harvest green black walnuts. Typically, I'm able to get a handful per tree that are accessible from the ground. I just came across a tree that had the top blown off in a storm, so I was able to collect ~10 kg almost entirely from one tree.

    This is probably way more than I need, so it's time to track down some alternative uses for them.

    Last year I made nocino and walnut syrup. This year, I'm going to do more of that as well as some vin de noix.

    Let me know if you have any other suggestions.

     

    I replaced my fridge ice maker a few years ago because part of the circuitry burned out. The replacement has also now burned out (though not nearly as badly). For reference, the burned part is supposed to hold onto the end of a copper peg that leads to the heating element (which melts the ice slightly so it can be popped out of the mold).

    It seems silly to spend $60 on a new one when it's just $0.05 worth of copper that needs replacing. Is there a safe way to fix this? Unfortunately, I can't just solder the connection because it is enclosed when assembled. For reference, those tabs aren't just fouled, they are burned completely through. My first thought is to pull out the whole trace, solder on new tabs (not sure where I'd get the material), and put the trace back in.

     

    A post about the problems with climate change leading to extreme rainfall events reminded me of this concept. I saw a great video about it years ago, and I couldn't find it, so I am just linking a journal article about the concept.

    The TL;DR is that we need to be doing as much as we can to slow water down on the land.

    Giant dams across rivers, while useful for flood mitigation and power generation, are ecologically harmful. Small structures, essentially providing resistance to flow of temporary streams, have a whole giant host of benefits, from decreased erosion to increased water infiltration and water sequestration.

    If you live somewhere arid (or honestly in many places that are now experiencing more eratic rainfall), you should think about where you could potentially use one or more of these strategies.

     

    Like much of the world, the weather is getting much more inconsistent where I live. Unreasonably warm weather starts earlier, but the risk of a frost still stays relatively late.

    If I have plants outside right now, some days it's too hot for cool season plants, and some nights it's too cold for warm season plants.

    I'm still very jealous of people who have space for a traditional garden, but one benefit of balcony gardening is that almost all of my plants are movable, so I can really dampen the effects of the weather.

    Plants that can't survive the cold, I can bring in at night. Plants that can't survive the heat, I can move to a place that's sheltered from the midday sun.

    This has allowed me to grow for a much extended season. I have pepper plants that are already forming peppers because I've had them outside for over a month now and just brought them in when they needed it.

     

    It's the time of year to collect green walnuts for making nocino or vin de noix. Ive never done it before, but figured I should try since I have so many black walnut trees growing near me. Apparently, you should only use nuts you've picked yourself, not the immature fruit on the ground because the tree has rejected it, and it likely has pest damage.

    I made a fruit picker out of a plastic bottle cut to have a notch at the top to hook around stems. What I've learned so far is that most walnut trees are either too tall to reach the nuts, even with a long pole, or they are too young to produce nuts. It seems like the best place to gather them is on the edge of fields/paths/etc, where big trees may have low branches. Standard fruit pickers will likely not work, either, because they are designed for larger fruit like apples, so they cant grip something as small as an immature walnut. Since they are not ripe, the tree also does not want to release them. I was only able to get a few to start, because I need to modify my picker to have a cutter or something like that.

    Since I only gathered a few, I figured it wasn't worth doing nocino as it takes 6 months, so it did "walnut molasses" while I figure out how to modify my picker.

    https://foragerchef.com/green-walnut-honey/

     

    I recently booked some backcountry campsites in a national park (in the USA). My plan is to hike from one town to another over a few days, and the camp sites are by reservation only. These sites are not accessible by road. When i made the reservation, it required me to put in the make, model, color, and license plate of my car. I will not have a car with me, nor could I (since there are no roads), yet this information was required of me (no opt-out).

    I'm assuming this is just because the system (recreation.gov) is run by a giant defense contractor (booz allen hamilton), and they want to harvest as much information as possible. It made me wonder what other government services are only available for car owners that are completely unrelated to car ownership. I'm inspired by seeing a post about while ago that talked about government services that require you to have social media accounts.

    I'm sure there are other examples of this phenomena.

    P.s., luckily, the sign up form is dumb, and it didn't use dropdown menus for car make/model/color, so i just put in gibberish.

     

    I have a 100 W rigid solar panel including a charge controller that I currently only use for camping to charge batteries (also useful in an emergency at home). It strikes me as a waste that I could be generating more clean energy with equipment that I already have, but I don't have anything in mind to use this energy for.

    Obviously I could try to tie it into my home to run more of my household on solar, or buy more/bigger batteries to charge, but with 100 W of generation, it's probably not worth it without a significantly increased investment.

    I tried searching around online, and I found plenty of discussion for what to do with a whole house that generates excess capacity (mainly sell to the grid), but nothing really on what to do with small scale DC generation.

    Anyone here have thoughts?

     

    Does anyone have a good method for dealing with plant debris? I'm thinking about things like stems from plants, or even just pruned bits. I don't have a place to compost effectively. My normal method for woody debris is to cut it to little pieces with garden shears, and for leafy stuff to just let it dry out and crunch it up. After, I'll just stick it in the bottom of a pot that I'm going to put a new plant in. It gets a little broken down, but not as well as I'd like, and I can only do it when I have a new plant to pot, so I end up with a random pile of stuff that sits around for a while.

    I wish I had like a tiny woodchipper or something.

     

    I've been using my grinder (Baratza maestro plus) for ten years now, and I got it used. I've replaced some parts (e.g., burrs), but I'm wondering if it's finally time to let it go. It seems like it's not grinding as consistently as it once was, but I'm thinking it would be good to quantify it.

    I've seen sieves used to classify ground coffee, specifically, the brand Kruve seems to be a nice implementation. It's $90 for the cheapest version, though, which doesn't quite seem worth it to me. It seems like it'd be better to just spend the money going towards a new grinder, but I figured it would be good to ask for anyone's experience here.

     

    Hi everyone,

    I looked through this community, and I didn't see much discussion of the use of CAD for woodworking, so I figured it was worth a post. I learned CAD ages ago, and I've used it sparingly in my professional life since then. I'm working on a project now that would benefit from CAD, so I figured I'd try to get up and running with a software for personal use.

    I know sketchup and fusion360 have long been the major players for woodworkers, but I am wary of "free" personal use licenses that can be removed or degraded at any time. As this is Lemmy, I'm sure plenty of you are interested in FOSS options as well. I know there are some programs out there specifically for woodworking, but if I'm going to learn a new software, I want it to be more general purpose so I can use it to make things for 3D printing, etc, if needed. I also want something parametric to be able to easily change designs. For those of you unaware of what that means, it basically means that you can design things with variables instead of exact numbers. That way you can punch in numbers later on to easily update your design. In my case, I'm making cabinet doors in a few different sizes, and I'll be able to generate plans for different doors with only 1 model. Theoretically, I could upload the design for anyone else to use/modify as well on a place like thingiverse (someone give me a shout if they are secretly horrible or something, I'm generally wary of providing value to a corporation for free).

    This all drove me to FreeCAD. FreeCAD is a FOSS CAD software that has a huge range of different capabilities. The different tools are divided into "workbenches" of different uses such as architectural drafting, 3d printing, openSCAD etc. There are also user created workbenches that you can install. There's even one specifically for woodworking (that I haven't used yet).

    I've started into some tutorials, and most of them are focused on building a single widget. While that's great if you are planning on making something to 3d print, us woodworkers are usually assembling different parts. The tutorials for woodworking specifically I've followed along with so far seem to follow the same workflow:

    First, a spreadsheet is set up to establish all the parameters you want to be able to change, then, each part is designed individually. Finally, all of the pieces are brought together and assembled.

    While this is great if you already have a design in mind or an object, and you are trying to make a model of it, it's not the way I would ideally go about conceptualizing a new design. To make a nightstand, for example, my preferred methodology would be to assemble some simple rectangular panels to represent the top, bottom, back, front, left, and right. After those are in place, I'd start adding joinery, details like routed edges, and cutting out space for a door. It doesn't seem like freecad is necessarily set up to do things that way, though I could be wrong. This might even be how the woodworking workbench does things, I just figured I'd start learning the default workbenches first.

    Anyone else use freecad or another CAD software? What's your workflow like? Want me to report back once I've had more time to play around with it and learn some stuff?

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