I'm running KDE on Nobara, and every time I power on my computer, there's something in the clipboard leftover from the previous session despite that setting being turned off. I'm not 100% sure, but sometimes I think that it's not even the last thing I copied. I'd have to make a mental note to check every time.

Is there something I can do to fix this besides the basic system settings dialog?

So far it looks like KDEConnect may be passing my clipboard back and forth between my PC and my phone. I'll have to wait and see how it changes after disabling clipboard sharing.

EDIT: The next day, I'm going to say this solved the issue for me. For anyone else wondering, in the KDEConnect settings, you can either disable clipboard sharing entirely or prevent automatically sharing the clipboard, which lets you manually share the clipboard only when you want to.

I was playing Ark Survival Ascended when my system locked up. No response from the mouse or keyboard, screen frozen, sound loop about 1 second long. I let it sit for a minute, thinking maybe it'll break out of it, and eventually had to force the power off with the power button.

I restarted my system, and now my performance in games is really bad, I'm getting about 20fps where I used to get 80-100, sometimes it gets so bad it goes into the single digits. I get stuttering sound as well and some pretty bad input lag. In Ark, I can see the textures slowly pop in over time, which normally happens in a matter of a second or two.

Looking at CoreCtrl, if I set it to high performance mode, the GPU's power usage peaks around 150 Watts instead of 300+.

I'm running Nobara on a 7900X3D and an RX 7900XT with 32GB RAM.

Not sure how to go about diagnosing my issue here. I haven't made any software changes, so I'm a little lost as to why this would happen.

Update: After trying everything suggested here, and all the googling I could manage, I ended up doing a full reinstall, and kept having issues. Eventually, I narrowed it down to the PCIE riser cable in my case (which I suppose I should have mentioned in the first place) which is supposed to be PCIE 4.0, but it seems to be what was causing my issues. I set my PCIE to 3.0 in the BIOS and everything is fine so far. I don't notice any performance reduction at all, so it probably wasn't saturating PCIE 4.0, but the riser isn't good enough for it I guess.

Like the Ender 3 V3 SE at $200 and the Ender 3 S1 Pro at $250.

They don't seem to have any interesting deals on consumables, sadly.

I just bought a nice OLED monitor and I'm trying to take advantage of it to play my games in HDR. If I run my games in gamescope, then HDR runs fine but my PS4 controller doesn't work. If I play without gamescope, the controller works, but HDR does not.

I've been trying to figure this out for a bit, and some people have been having some luck with the -e flag, which does nothing for me.I've tried Steam Input and overlay in all combinations of enabled and disabled and I've tried in big picture/gamepadui. Either way I have to choose between HDR and the controller. Has anyone gotten this to work?

I modeled an object in Blender intending to print it, but when I import it into PrusaSlicer or Cura, the dimensions don't quite match.

In Blender, the dimensions are 178mm x 142mm, but when I import it into Cura or PrusaSlicer, it imports it as 180 x 138mm. I can manually adjust the dimensions, but why is this happening? And will it mess up my fit in the end? Who do I trust here? I don't want to waste hours printing for nothing.

I've been listening to this a bunch lately. This is the cleanest-sounding concert recording I've ever found on youtube.

I have a model I want to print that has multiple layers of internal walls. They are useless and can't be seen in the finished product, like a hollow cylinder inside another hollow cylinder.

I can't seem to figure out how to prevent the slicer from including those useless parts. I've tried with Cura and PrusaSlicer. Is there another tool I should be using for this?

Is there a way to automatically locally save Spotify music as I listen to it? Or to access/convert the files that Spotify saves for offline playback?

I just got my printer, got it all set up, followed all the instructions, and it looks like it should be working, but it's not.

I've gone through the auto bed leveling, then adjusted the height with a piece of paper. Now, trying to run my first test print, the only thing the printer will do is attempt to auto-level itself. If I let it go, it will just do it over and over. If I hit the stop button, it gives me error message 203 (Probing Failed), the screen locks up, and the printer keeps attempting to auto-level over and over. The only thing I can do is turn it off.

What am I missing?

Edit: So it turns out the included test files are no good. I downloaded a benchy and it printed just fine.

When you make something that's too big for your printer, how do you hide the seams from bonding when aesthetics are a priority?

This is one of two habanero plants I started as an experiment a couple months ago. This one has about 40 peppers growing on it right now and a ton of open flowers.

It spent most of its time in a tent, but I brought it outside about a month ago, and it's taking quite a liking to real sunshine.

Anyone have any experience playing over Steam Link on wifi?

It seems like no matter what I do, the performance is really shitty. Both the host and the client are in line of sight of the router, and I can get 500+ mbps and my latency seems good, but the performance is garbage. As soon as I go wired, I can get great performance at 100mbps or less.

Is there a good way to mitigate this? Am I doing something wrong?