Anyone seen this project? Supposedly has 20km range and quite low cost to build. Is this good for the global south?

AERIS-10 is an open-source, low-cost 10.5 GHz phased array radar system featuring Pulse Linear Frequency Modulated (LFM) modulation. Available in two versions (3km and 20km range), it's designed for researchers, drone developers, and serious SDR enthusiasts who want to explore and experiment with phased array radar technology.

Need an iron and solder recommendations for some thru hole synth kits. Leaded or lead free for a noob?

I've been preparing to replace the tub in my guest bathroom, the tub has been out of level since I bought this house, and it has always retained some water in the back, which had also always been somewhat discolored. For context, the walls had previously had tile up to the ceiling. I've been trying to read and watch as much prep material in advance as I could, but in all of the material there had always been 2x4's behind the tile and some sort of backer board. As I'm pulling down these tiles, what I find instead is brick wall. In summary, I haven't been able to find any resources describing prepping brick walls for a new tub and tile. I don't know how I ought to attach the tub to the walls (if that's even something I ought to do in this case) or how to otherwise prep the wall to receive waterproofing and tile. Any materials or advice offered would be greatly appreciated!

I finally got my hand on some pallets and wanted to use one of the shittier planks to make something to lean on so I dont fuck my knees/back up taking the rest apart. Plus, an easy little project for my adhd riddled brain to accomplish in an hour or so. :)

PS: make sure you get heat treated planks ONLY if you're gonna do pallet stuff. don't get chemicals in them pretty lil lungs xx

EDIT: fucking switch doesnt fit in the wall coz of the control box so brb

TLDR: is a Neutral wire in a "live + neutral + ground" setup the load output wire or a neutral wire when doing light switches?

My house is ca. 1907 for context, and the only wires I've got are:

1. Red (Live), tested with multimeter.
2. Grey (Neutral..?), was connected to common terminal of old (traditional) switch
3. Exposed (Ground?) Connected to terminal housing.

My new dimmer supports "with or without neutral" circuits:

but what confuses me is how the 2nd wire is a neutral line, but clearly is being used as common; should this be connected as neutral, or do I have a "no neutral" circuit setup?

I've got some old wiring from the cellar to demonstrate what I think is correct, including some ground wire taped up to connect the L+N terminals as the circuit describes:

(NB: Brown is Live, Blue is Neutral, this wire postdates the house by a LOT)

I've been looking at instructables but bar here and r*ddit (which i avoid like the plague) I'm curious what places y'all would say are useful?

This post is mostly about making a Pom Pom and how easy they are to make. The hat itself is a simple basic knitted winter hat that takes only a day or two to make if you use a chunky wool yarn.

I've learnt to make pom poms from my grandmothers long ago and haven't made one in years. This pink hat clearly asked for a huge fluffy pom pom so I made one.

It's very simple. You cut two rounds from a sturdy material like cardboard. The size of the round dictates the size of your pom pom and the inner circle dictates the fullness. The larger the center hole, the fuller the pom pom (fits more yarn).

You put these two rings together and spin the yarn around the inner and outer perimeter. You can use several colours if you want a multicoloured pom pom. Use a lot of yarn as the more yarn you spin into it, the fuller the pom pom will be. Just don't do so much that it becomes impossible to tie it together.

Once you have the yarn tied to the frame, you cut along the outer perimeter, between the two circles, all round. Sharp scissors are needed.

Then you take a long piece of yarn and slide it between the two rings and tie it very tightly.

After that you cut open the cardboard rings from the edge to the center so you can manouvre the pom pom out of its mold.

Finish the pom pom by giving it a trim with sharp scissors and cut all the yarns to the same lenght, a bit of a barbering is needed here.

If you want to make it very fluffy, boil water in a pan and hold the pom pom over the boiling water for a few seconds on each side. This fluffs up the fibers and makes for a very fluffy pom pom. You can trim it again with scissors after this.

Pom poms make great gifts, you can make them into keychains or anything. Or attach them to clothes. I've made them from reflecting yarn in the past to hang on clothes for darker months. A great way to use leftover yarn as well.

Idk it just seemed a bit crafty and goofy leave me alone

I needed to make the dinging stop. Maybe somebody else is experiencing a similar problem.

Glory to President Xi, and endless woe and torment for the greenwashing pricks at Fairphone who pretend 15 quid for a bit of plastic is normal behaviour, and their ear cushions use a fuckload of glue which makes them unrepairable.

In particular, I am looking for advice on how to insulate the attic effectively without breaking the bank or causing major moisture build up concerns.

Got a rock chip? I just fixed my daughter's windshield, and wanted to share how I did it.

the OP photo shows the broken clips. this is a really common problem on these toyota hatchbacks, so if anyone has has similar issues you can do this too. all you need is some trim board retainers off ebay, a file set, and some super glue

break the clips off completely

use a file to file the plastic into a U sort of shape

file the bottom of the retainer clips on the sides and front so that they fit snugly into the bracket

superglue tf out of them, let it dry, and they work perfectly. all in all takes like 25 mins of work

i found this tutorial on an old scion forum that had like 10 views so thought someone may find this useful info

also my nails aren’t dirty thats nail polish i couldnt get off

So, I recently bought a mixing board and a powered PA speaker. I downloaded the manual for the board and it shows in the manual that you can plug in (in their example it's a reel to reel tape recorder) some sort of recording device. I circled it in red in the pic

I'm wondering if there is some modern piece of recording equipment, preferably mp3, that I could hook up in line. Like: board>recorder>out to speaker so we can play live and record it. Something that has 1/4 inch TRS jacks in/out.

I don't know a ton about this stuff and I know I can get a stand alone tascam style recorder, but surely this sort of thing exists, since it used to with older technology?

cross-posted from: https://ibbit.at/post/28713

Over on his YouTube channel [Construction General] shows us how to convert a drain into a hydropower facility. This type of hydroelectric facility is known as a gravitation water vortex power plant. The central structure is a round basin which includes a central drain. The water feeds into the basin through a series of pipes which help to create the vortex which drives the water turbine before flowing out the drain.

To make the facility [Construction General] starts by laying some slabs as the foundation. One of the slabs has a hole to which the central drain pipe is attached. Bricks and mortar are then used to build the basin around the drain. A temporary central pipe is used for scaffolding along with some strings with hooks attached to hold the bricks and mortar in place for the basin. Integrated into the top half of the basin are fifteen inlet pipes which feed in water at an angle.

The next step is to build the dam wall. This is a bricks and mortar affair which includes the drain in the bottom of the wall and two spillways at the top. The spillways are for letting water flow out of the dam if it gets too full. Around the drainage in the dam wall a valve is installed. This valve is called the low-level outlet or the bottom outlet, and in this case it is a sluice, also known as a slide gate, which can be raised or lowered to control the rate of flow through the turbine.

Once the basin is complete and the low-level outlet is in place the scaffolding is removed. The basin is then painted, pink on the inside and white around the top. A turbine is constructed from various metal pieces and installed into the basin. The turbine is attached to a generator which is fixed atop the basin. The apparatus for operating the low-level outlet is installed and the dam is left to fill.

Hydropower is a topic we’ve covered here at Hackaday before, if you’re interested in the topic you might like to check out A Modest But Well-Assembled Home Hydropower Setup, Hydropower From A Washing Mashine, or Bicycle Hub Hydropower.

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Asterisk because the article is nearly two weeks old at this point. NOAA 15 is due to be put into an “electrically safe mode” including turning its transmitters off tomorrow 12 Aug 2025 and NOAA 19 is to have its transmitters turned off on 19 Aug 2025.

RIP IN PIECE to the satellites that got me interested in radio waves and all things SDR. NOAA 18 bit the dust a few weeks or so before NOAA declared the remaining two EOL and NOAA 15, and 19 are fast approaching their end too. They have lived far beyond their intended lives and have been replaced with a bunch of stuff in the X band which is all microstrip and horn antennas, and high frequency stuff that I just dont really have the time to get into right now and besides, all the SDR’s that pick up that stuff are all thousand(s) typically and require actual programming knowledge beyond my ability to cut n paste. DIY antennas for that frequency band take more effort and talent than i have to make. Probably more money than I have too.

So anyway RIP to some real ones. If you are into that sorta stuff, better get that last pass or two in before they flip the switches. Im going to take my QFH and mount it on a giant wooden pole and go out in the road and record one more pass with an SDR and an old Android phone I have kicking around in my desk drawer for old time sake.

decided to include saveitforparts’s video about it which is where i learned about it originally, but posted an actual article about it too.

https://youtu.be/vA7yAP8f8zk

I've been stockpiling cardboard and bought the ingredients for the waterproof coating to try this out.

obviously comrades are down for whatever, but I think if we can get a decent system going for this, this is something even church groups would be into doing – in my experience, they really seem to prefer actually doing a thing themselves over just giving the money to the people doing genuinely helpful work.

an immediate issue I see with this is vulnerability to insect damage and flammability. I got some boric acid earlier this spring to make hornet traps, and reading that natopedia article taught me that it is used not just as an insecticide but also to make things inflammable, two incredibly useful purposes for this particular application. some of the comments of the video indicate that others thought of this as well, so I feel like this is worth pursuing.

are any of you chemists or otherwise have knowledge that would be helpful for figuring out how much boric acid to add to this mixture as a starting point? I have some applications around my farm that I can use to test the insecticidal part, and obviously the combustibility is easy to test. I just have no idea where to start with an effective amount to mix in without completely fucking the other necessary attributes (spreadability etc) of the mixture.

Some brands do different sized ones. Irish Dingle Gin do narrower ones if you're a comrade in the 32 counties.

E: From more reading, it looks like some kind of mineral wool will be the best thing to place between the studs. I also feel content adding MLV to the bathroom-side since the waterproofing underlayment for the shower is also effectively a moisture barrier. That way, any moisture-allowing failures can still permeate out the exterior wall and to the adjoining rooms.

As the title suggests, I want to soundproof my bathroom. It is right next to the kitchen (top hangout space) AND my disabled (relevant bc this is the only accessible bedroom) uncle's bedroom. We want to hang out and be able to use the bathroom later than my uncle wants to stay up, but the noise is bothersome to him. There are demons in his colon, too, which do not complement breakfast.

We live in this huge, cheap, almost-down-to-the-studs house that I bought so the only practical limit to renovations is money. How can I soundproof the bathroom? Right now it's just old lathe between his room and the bathroom, and the bathroom and the kitchen. I'm already planning to put 5/8" thick drywall once we get there, but figuring out what else I can do. We putty'd the back of the outlets in the shared walls, and made sure the doors are real tight so there won't be a fit issue there.

Brain Genius or Setting Myself Up for Catastrophic Mold with MLV?

I was thinking to put mass-loaded vinyl on both sides of the walls, but since the bathroom obviously generates a lot of steam and moisture, I am worried that small failures will trap a lot of moisture in the internal walls and lead to mold and structural damage. Now neither of the walls to the bathroom are structural but I am so afraid of mold damage. When I rebuild the shower, I plan to make it curbless and waterproof the shit out of its enclosure, but I imagine there will still be some amount of moisture leakage outwards especially since I probably won't do tile to the ceiling.

Which Leads me to a Brain-Genius Solution

Why not load the area between the studs with a lot of drywall? I can further isolate my uncle's room with hangers or other gaps so there isn't a rigid member (the studs) directly behind the drywall. Now space in the bathroom-facing wall in the kitchen is very precious. Losing 1-2" inches to isolate it would mean I can't use off-the-shelf cabinets and makes building it nice sort of impossible for what I can afford. I am categorizing the worst bathroom noises to be "aerial" noises and not structural noises since footsteps do not bother us too much. I wonder if I can contain them well by mass-loading the walls with extra dry-wall offcuts and things. It will be very easy to reinforce the joists this walls rest on from the basement so I don't see any drawbacks but I don't know how super effective this strategy would be.

Any advice is good! Like I said, my main concern is the effectiveness of bootleg mass-loading and avoiding a moisture trap. Also if it is relevant the building is brick with 2x4 studs on the external walls faced by plaster (in the old sections) and drywall in the new sections. Uncle's bedroom, the bathroom, and the kitchen are all along the same external wall. The plumbing wall for the kitchen and the bathroom is the same one.

Thanks!

As you can see it used to have some plastic covering. The frame is held together with (sorta brittle) plastic pins but my main focus is how I'd re-cover the frame in plastic:

• What sort of adhesives should I consider for outdoor metal-plastic bonding?

• Is adhesive and soft (clear) plastic even a good idea?

• Have any of you done something similar?