I'm connecting 10 awg to 16, for testing I just used knockoff wago but I don't trust it long term

Update 2: tl;dr: had to turn off (or maybe tune) z contouring.
So after looking at it and pulling it apart and several times missing the window to go look as its happening, it looks like it wasnt extruding enough to actually stick, eventually there is enough of a ball that it sticks and it repeats causing that pattern.
I literally just found out after idk how many years of 3d printing that the post slice view can be switched to visualize different things including flow which coloured specifically those areas blue or really low, like down to 0.1 even. Going through everything one by one to make it consistent flow, it turned out to be 'z contouring' was on and presumably very misconfigured. I still cant believe it wasnct the broken extruder. I even threw the bmg clone and calibrated it to get the same results as the repaired pap lite.

Update: Shockingly the broken extruder that was somehow still extruding wasn't the cause. I printed another a4t shell and the same areas have that defect. It seems to occur mainly on just the exterior wall of both inward and outward overhangs but parts of the same section dont have it, and this model is the only one I've seen this on. I'm waiting for the printer to heatsoak for further testing but at 3 teardowns in, I'm just guessing now.

Edit: It was the extruder. One of the belt gears sheared off, and there was enough friction between the pieces that it still worked at slower speed, even well enough for the calibration test prints I tried. I had spares that I printed ages ago and now it works.

I started getting this weird exterior wall defect that I haven't seen before. Calibration testers come out clean though and it's driving me insane.

Using orca slicer with an e3 switchwire trying to print parts for my other printer so I can rebuild this one into something not a switchwire.

The other day someone asked what kind of music I listen to and I said frank schauthiggua, they asked what genre and I said mostly cerebral catwave. It seemed like he took it seriously or he was really good at pretending to know what that is. I at least think I made those up. His reaction made me question...

I have almost no idea what any of the more specific genre tags I see on a lot of songs even mean. Has anyone already made something like a list of genres with some examples?

Edit: Thanks everyone, I'll check those on my next break or maybe when I get home if they get on my case about headphones at work

The political and gundam memes my coworkers sent me got face recognized but it won't do it for my family photos...

Edit: Changed clip model and some facial rec parameters and got... more meme faces. Some additional tweaks and I got one family member and one of my birds. It goddamn recognises bird faces.

and holy shit it recognized my hideous drivers licence pic as me.

It's actually kinda useful for sorting memes too...

restaurants put in too much stuff I don't like so I have to make it myself. Other than no seafood or seafood based ingredients, anything goes but my preferences would bias towards fairly high spicy burn and not too sweet.

I plan to try a bunch and eventually make a card for my recipe book catered to my preferences based on the findings, but AI has made the already really annoying online recipe scene so much worse so I'm hoping there are recipes someone can vouch for. I've been promised some scans from a friend's grandma's recipe box but that has to wait for his next trip back home.

Edit:

Thanks for the recommendations everyone. I got a pretty good idea of the ratios of ingredients. If I made one mistake it was scaling the pepper powder to the pre cooked stock volume instead of the final volume so it was a bit spicy for the rest of my family. And my cabbage was rotten on the inside so there was no veggies in it... Then I ate it without taking photos, but I'll be making more for sure.

Does this even exist? I have a brother mfc but trying to print anything at all will spitout a blank page and partway feed 2 more and call it a jam, exact same way every time and this also prevents scanning until it is cleared and the drum is jiggled before closing the front panel. I also have a standalone colour laser printer.

I'm not super excited about the idea of getting another mfc when I have a working printer so I'm looking for recommendations on standalone linux compatible scanners that have wired network capability, ideally with document feeder. So far I've looked at a few but I have low confidence on the linux functionality and network jack isn't even mentioned in spec sheets where I can see it in the picture.

My power button clicks and feels normal. It doesn't work in any situation at all. I can turn on the deck from off by plugging in the cord and if it's already on but screen off I can only wait for it to die or open the shell and disconnect the battery.

This deck has: full shell swap, replaced worn cap and drifting stick with hall effect sticks, aftermarket buttons, replacement screen, aftermarket 1tb nvme, always had L1 require addititonal force after the click to work.

All mods were done at the same time and had no problems apart from L1 for enough time to finish spiderman, miles morales, 80% of FFVIIR, Act 1 of BG3 7 times, All of evoland 1 and 2 plus againnin legendary edition, both god of war and ragnarok, expedition 33 up to the snow area, both subnautica games, and a bunch of friendslop titles in between.

About a month ago power button stopped working and I haven't had the motivation to deal with it but I took it apart a little bit today, saw that the power button likely requires removing the mobo, and went back to not feeling like it.

Has anyone done a successful diy powerswitch repair? Ifixit only has instructions for the plastic piece on top, though the switch itself is probably a generic piece. I'll attempt valve if it's the only option but I don't really want to deal with mailing out the damned thing especially if its just going to get rejected and blamed on the mods.

I'm not really sure how to proceed nicely here.

I have a hole in the wall of the top floor going down into the space between floor/ceiling joists. Middle floor wall is about 2-4 inches offset and not directly under, but the joists turned out to be parallel to that wall and a joist is on top. Is there a sensible way to route the cable?
In a different house the joists went the other way and I was able to just drill up from the lower wall with the flex bit and just grab the dangling wire from a ceiling cutout and reach in between and hook it on the puller in the lower wall but I'm not sure how to handle it this time.

Mostly entirely unfunny bird talking videos ending in the cringiest generated laugh track, but the people sending them didn't realize they was fake even after I pointed out they still had the sora logo just blurred or pixellated. I'm so damn tired

edit: and I guess aliexpress really wants to sell me womens underwear. I probably could have taken a better screenshot...

I noticed this today when I installed windows to use some overclocking tools that have no linux equivalent. I was running minecraft for windows in the background to warm up the air in the pc. Does anyone know what the third minecraft entry is?

I picked up some cheap rims but the part that rests in the dropouts is too wide, I haven't measured it but it looks like it would be possible to use percussive coersion. How dangerous would it be to do that or shave it down just a bit? The fork is aluminum.

I'll add photos when I get back home

could a resin printed fdm toolhead hold out long enough for minimal calibration and printing a new one? I have been considering getting a resin printer for miniatures friends have been requesting and it would be a way to get the parts needed to repair my fdm printers fully at home.