DIY

If there is a better community to ask, I’d be happy to post there. I am looking for ideas for a color to paint my living room, based on my accent colors.

It might be hard to tell from the photo, but the walls are a light grey. And I’m going for a farmhouse/country feel.

Thanks!

Trying to get this gate to sit level and swing freely. I used an adjust-a-gate kit. The width is 92", height is 6'. I have used the lightest possible wood, and I can't get this damn thing to hang straight. The turnbuckle that came with it bent straight and came flying out of the holes, so I used a different one I had on hand. Clearly the wheel isn't doing anything except causing the gate to warp since it isn't centered under the weight.

I want to add a diagonal cross brace from the bottom hinge to the top corner, but I'm not sure how exactly to do it with the 3 horizontal boards.

I'm also considered replacing the hinges with 3 extra long strap hinges, one on each horizontal board.

What do you guys think?

Gates

Storing electrons in a container

Maybe like how can fill a container with a gas like air could maybe do the same with each individual electron in a container.

Could perhaps emit each electron into a container maybe like how an electron emitter / electron gun can emit each electron from the negative electrode. Then maybe can be able to emit each electron into a sealed container to store each electron not attached to an atom. I guess an electron not attached to an atom are as a free electron. Which maybe can call this an electron bottle.

Should probably have the entire inner surface of the container be made out of a conductive material so can maybe be able to both add each electron into the container and to remove each electron from the container. Should probably ensure have an electrically insulative material surrounding the conductive surface so as to prevent emitting each electron outside of the conductive surface. With removing each electron should maybe have a diode to ensure each electron move a specific direction.

If for some reason each electron can go through the container then maybe should use a material for repelling magnetism maybe like a diamagnetic material like a superconductor or something else like pyrolytic graphite or bismuth. This way can perhaps repel magnetism of each electron which then perhaps repels each electron. A superconductor perhaps have a stronger repelling effect compared to something like pyrolytic graphite and bismuth. Which also perhaps pyrolytic graphite have a stronger diamagnetic effect than bismuth.

• Maybe could even use something like copper or aluminum to maybe be able to repel each electron from each electron’s magnetism causing eddy currents with either type of material.

• Maybe could even have a material that both repel magnetism like as a diamagnetic material and are easily able to make eddy currents perhaps due to being electrically conductive. Maybe like a superconductor or maybe pyrolytic graphite. I’ve heard bismuth are a superconductor around -273.15 C or -459.67 F. However perhaps at higher temperatures I guess bismuth lose electrical conductivity perhaps so perhaps like at room temperature 23 C or 73.4 F have very high electrical resistivity so are not ideal for eddy currents.

Which then with using a material for repelling each electron then it might be more difficult to be able to collect each electron. Could probably have a section of the electron bottle with no or at least less of a magnetism repelling effect which are as a conductive surface. Which then to perhaps have something like a removable magnetism repelling material, diamagnetic material behind on the outside of the conductive surface with less or no magnetism repelling effect. This way if the diamagnetic material are in the section with no or less magnetic repelling effect then maybe to repel each electron inside of the container. If to remove the diamagnetic material then maybe to allow each electron to conduct into the conductive surface which then perhaps can be collected.

Electron bottle: Energy generation

Another thing to mention is maybe since each electron always move maybe like with zero point energy then can maybe be used for generating energy.

Maybe for example since each electron emit electromagnetism then perhaps each electromagnetism could affect the conductive surface area to cause current and maybe even go through the electron bottle so can perhaps affect a coil to cause current that way. This way maybe can collect electric current without removing each electron. Though with just collecting current from the inner conductive surface then probably to have a higher chance of collecting each electron and perhaps especially more likely if the conductive surface does not effectively repel each electron.

Maybe either way if effectively repel each electron or not could maybe cause heat which can also maybe be another way to be used for energy. Maybe the heat could power a thermoelectric generator for electric current. Maybe even emit infrared light could power an infrared solar panel for electric current that way.

Also just to mention the conductive surface with the electron bottle that can perhaps act as an electrode like as a negative electrode to emit each electron in the container. I guess in order to effectively emit each electron should be heated up. So maybe another idea how how it could heat up is just by each electron inside of the container itself could perhaps heat up the container. Maybe like magnetism from each electron can heat up the conductive surface.

Maybe another idea could be to collect each electron to for example use with a circuit and then add each electron back into the container. Though this might have a higher chance of losing each electron being emitted from a circuit.

Below ideas regarding how to maybe affect each electron to move at a faster speed so can maybe generate more energy maybe like with each electron’s electromagnetism to induce more current. Perhaps to cause more heat maybe like with collision with inner wall of the electron bottle or electron’s electromagnetism to cause heat with the electron bottle:

Electron bottle: Other ideas with generating energy

Gravity / gravity wave to maybe be able to affect each susceptible electron to maybe move at a faster speed.

Movement of the electron bottle. Maybe if the electron bottle were to move to hit an electron with added movement speed. Or maybe with a material for reflecting magnetism like a diamagnetic material to maybe reflect each susceptible electron’s magnetism to reflect the electron away with more movement speed that way. Maybe like this could be caused from sound vibrations for example.

• Maybe similarly this could perhaps happen with heat since perhaps heat is vibration of each atom.

Light. If light can hit an electron then could maybe cause to move faster. Maybe with heat could make infrared light inside of the electron bottle to affect each susceptible electron that way. If can have a transparent electron bottle then could maybe more easily allow light from the outside into the container maybe like visible light. However with a transparent container maybe due to each electron emitting electromagnetism to be able to emit various spectrum of light that could be dangerous maybe like UV light to easily go through the transparent container. So perhaps an opaque container are ideal to perhaps block harmful light.

Electron bottle: Gravity waves

Maybe since an electron attracts gravity and if to move to make a gravity wave.

So maybe each gravity wave can have a push and pulling effect towards the direction the gravity wave are moving.

If to store electrons in an electron bottle then maybe since each electron constantly move maybe like with zero point energy then could constantly emit gravity waves maybe in many directions of the electron bottle. This way can repel matter from many directions of the electron bottle.

Maybe if for example have an electron bottle with a dense block of matter maybe like made of iron attached to the outside of the electron bottle then maybe each gravity wave that move towards the direction of the dense block of iron to push and pull on the dense block of iron to maybe cause to move towards the direction of the dense block of iron maybe like a thruster.

So for example maybe this could be useful for spaceship propulsion.

Electron bottle: Notes

Maybe heat from each electron maybe like with colliding with the inner wall of the container to maybe cause heat. With heat can maybe heat up the conductive surface / electrode of the container to maybe be able to emit each electron easier like as an electron emitter maybe like with both wanting to add or remove each electron.

Since each electron perhaps repel each other do to the same electric charge then maybe each electron reduce how effective can add each electron into the electron bottle. Which also maybe due to each electron repelling each other then maybe can force each electron closer to the inner wall of the container to for example cause more heat maybe by colliding with the inner wall and or from electromagnetism.

Electron bottle: Possible dangers

If to open the electron bottle with electrons inside then could perhaps be dangerous like maybe could cause burns like with human skin and blindness like with each human eye.

• Maybe similarly if to discharge each electron from the container quickly then maybe since each electron are moving through the conductive electrode to maybe cause heat which maybe could be harmful like with being able to burn like with human skin and even break the electron bottle maybe like with melting it which then perhaps suddenly release each electron stored in the container.

Storing light in a container

Maybe the higher spectrum of light the more difficult it is to store in a container. Maybe like with visible, microwave spectrum are difficult to store in a container. However maybe could more easily store lower spectrum of like the radio wave spectrum of light inside of a conductive container.

Maybe could for example for emitting the radio wave spectrum of light could have an antenna inside of a conductive container to emit each radio wave. Which the antenna should definitely be insulated from the conductive inner wall.

Could maybe call a container for storing light a light bottle.

Also just to mention maybe due to a superconductor not having a lot of resistance can be useful with storing light so as to maybe reduce energy loss from resistance.

Light bottle: Gravity waves

Maybe if a photon (I guess an individual light particle / wave) were to collide with another photon then maybe each photon to annihilate while making an electron and positron. Which just to mention a positron are perhaps the opposite charge to an electron.

Perhaps due to each electron and positron attracting gravity to then attract gravity and maybe if the electron and positron collide to make 2 photons and losing gravity maybe making a gravity wave.

So maybe this can be another way to make gravity waves using light.

Maybe information about photon reflecting off of another photon:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Two-photon_physics

Maybe also something related are Delbrück scattering:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delbr%C3%BCck_scattering

Light bottle: Energy generation

Maybe similarly to with the electron bottle with generating energy using each electron maybe like with constantly moving like with zero point energy could maybe be similar with an electron and positron from a photon colliding with another photon. Which just to mention perhaps a positron also emit electromagnetism so perhaps could work similarly to an electron with generating energy. Which also perhaps due to an electron and positron being opposite charge to attract to each other and perhaps collide to annihilate to perhaps then emit 2 photons, maybe each as a radio wave as radio waves that collided from before. Which then perhaps lose emitting electromagnetism as before when there were an electron and positron.

Maybe another idea with generating energy from storing light in a light bottle could be from each photon directly maybe like also due to each photon constantly moving maybe like with zero point energy. Maybe could cause energy like heat, maybe current like with the radio wave spectrum of light without losing energy. Though I think maybe due to colliding with the interior of the light bottle to lose energy / amplitude maybe like as heat so maybe not easily able to use for energy that way.

Light bottle: Possible danger

If the container are suddenly opened releasing light then could perhaps be dangerous perhaps like with causing burns like with human skin and blindness like with each human eye.

• Which also should perhaps be careful to limit how much light discharge from the container as perhaps when discharging could cause heat with the light bottle which if too much heat could maybe cause damage and break the light bottle opening it maybe like from melting.

Light bottle or electron bottle: Note

With either an electron or light bottle should make sure the inner container are of a vacuum so can maybe reduce resistance and with causing heat and also so can perhaps have more storage space.

More information

More information about storing electrons and light and other information like with most likely aliens abducting and exploiting people as a resource in a text document called “Information about totalitarian and manipulative aliens.odt”, also with picture in the post perhaps also prove these aliens are real:

https://lemmy.world/post/18504237

• Also there are links to a zip file and google drive folder that include other text documents files like video files referenced in the “Information about totalitarian and manipulative aliens.odt” document.

• When mentioned storing electrons or light are near the bottom of the document “Information about totalitarian and manipulative aliens.odt”. Each title for storing electrons or light are in bold text with cyan highlight. Title in the document for storing electrons: "Storing electrons in a container" . Title for storing light in the document: "Storing light in a container".

I tested this with an electrical socket reader and it chimed, so there is some power to it still. I'd like to remove this, the old keypad, a siren, etc.

Besides shutting off the power while doing it and maybe capping the cable ends, what do I need to think about? I'm just trying to make sure I don't burn my house down 😅

Hi, I am wondering if anyone could please help identify the white powder substance that is appearing on the shelves on my shed?

I think it may be some type of acid? It appears to be eating away at the metal of my shelves. I have previously brushed the shelves down to clear this before but it has returned, so I suspect I may need to use some sort of cleaner?

There was a leak in the roof for a few months and some tools became rusty as a result. The leak has been sorted but I wonder if it could be related to the powder substance.

So I am working on a project where I want a big dumb red button. I got a light-duty industrial illuminated pushbutton from AliExpress (this one, if you want to know: 22mm 3v-6v, non-locking). It looks like it will be fine to use, but I'm confused about the LED. It seems to work regardless of which orientation, and I briefly tried it without a resistor, and that was fine too.

I'd like it to be fairly bright, but as someone who has blown up his share of through-hole diodes in his day, I would rather not mess up this one, since without the diode light it's sad and dumb, rather than glorious and dumb. :-)

My question is this: is there any standard for these illuminated switches that would make it likely that there is some resistor and diode stuff going on inside the housing, such that this thing is fine to just wire up and use?

Hi, I would like to remove the electric motor from a garage door in the hopes that I can use it as a manual door.

I would like to be able to pull it up and down by hand (I will most likely add a handle).

I am hoping someone may know if this is possible?

I think the motor is at one end:

And the other is just a support:

There appears to be a manual hand crank:

In the future I may replace the door with something more practical.

I have an idea how it might be possible, but I think I would need to support the door and remove the brackets. Then take it down, and pull it apart. But I have no knowledge as to how the supporting axle is connected to the motor or if it is even possible to then move it manually.

Perhaps it would be too heavy to lift manually? Or perhaps there is an easier solution?

I am open to anyone's advice.

I am in the process of attempting to install an outside switch for a radon mitigation system. However, I am unable to drill through the remaining part of the block wall. I have an M12 Fuel hammer drill and a carbide drill bit. I imagine something is in the way but what? If it was concrete in the floor I would guess rebar. The first part went through like butter. I have pictures: https://imgur.com/a/hCed4u8

It's a bit of a long story but someone tried using spray foam to fill the hole around where my sink's plumbing goes through and it seems like it essentially expanded too much and causing the paint to tear.

I was thinking maybe I could get some rigid insulation cut it to size, stick it in there, and spackle over it followed by painting it. I would probably cut the rest of the paint to the top because it looks as if it is going to tear eventually and it's at an angle.

Any suggestions?

The gap is close to an inch in size.

One side of my back yard is 6 foot vinyl fence post, then the other side and back are chest high chain link fence that are older than me and have concrete blocks under the ground, so would be a giant pain to remove.

Also I looked up and wires were laid right next to the concrete bases. So I "really" do not want to have to remove them.

The fence was installed before I was born, and the wires laid when I was in elementary school. So don't blame me for the silliness of it please.

Would it work if I just removed the panels from between the chain link posts, then slipped the hollow vinyl posts over them, and connected them with the vinyl panels? I would have to buy different distance panels to make it work, but that seems easier than tearing them out, then digging new holes for the new posts.

Or any other suggestions to make it look nice and not have to try and dig large concrete bases that are next to wires out of the ground?

I have a Nektar keyboard I've repaired for the most part, but the previous owner's bad gluing of the keyboard mechanism wasn't very good.

Since I'm not very good with normal musical keyboards, I was thinking about modifying its keybed into a Jankó keyboard.

I create an open source software modular synthesizer out of a Raspberry Pi Pico. You can see a video on it at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=252Vte4tYh0

...when he will find himself standing in a hardware store confronted with a wall of bird feeding accessories. This is, I'm told, some kind of twisted coming of age thing. Up until now you've thought about two, maybe three birds in your entire life. Tops. But then, bang: Suddenly the topic of a bird feeder is vitally important. It's serious business.

There's a snag, though.

"What about this?" She'll ask. "It's so cute, like a little tiny house. And it's only $14.97!" It's not even sold yet and you can see it's already falling apart. The wood's split, and clearly nobody taught the children in that sweatshop how a square works. Or a clamp. There's a gold sticker on the bottom, half peeling off. It says 'Made In China.'

"Come on, I could make that in about 10 minutes with crap I have lying around my workshop."

"Yes, dear," your wife will say, while patting your arm.

This is what 300,000 years of evolution has brought us. Countless generations worth of genetic fine-tuning, passed down through mitochondrial DNA, veritably ensured the delivery of that precise response. The woman has watched you rebuild transmissions, heft Labrador sized rocks over your head, and replaster the entire house. But this, this thing consisting of no more than five ratty planks of wood, elicits a sarcastic "yes, dear."

This is it, isn't it? Men, Mars. Women, Venus. Every single one of those dumbass 1950's stand-up routines, distilled. It turns out it was all true. Well, part of it, anyway.

But some things are a matter of principle.

This is a bird feed suet cake holder I literally made out of offcuts and random crap I had lying around on my workbench, in ten minutes. Using nothing -- nothing, I say -- other than my compound miter saw and cordless drill. And a spot of wood filler, because there was a gnarly knot hole on the plank I wound up using on the top. It's held together with Spax screws and you could probably also use it as a jack stand for a bus.

Parameters drafted: Zero. Measurements made: Zero. Components purchased: Zero. And spending $14.97 on a ramshackle piece of shit? Studiously avoided.

Here is what it looked like when I got it home:

Fully stripped back:

And restored to it's former glory:

Hi,

Any of you folks know about EDPM vs Fibreglass roofing.

I need to make a choice for a property extension in the UK. I expect rain, a few hot days, more rain, more rain, and some ice.

The roof won't be load bearing (people won't be walking on it).

Seems like every other website has differing opinions on what's best. I guess because everyone is selling something.

Any impartial opinions on what you'd use?

Cheers

Due to lack of well designed buyable solutions, I built my own bicycle stand from scratch.

BOM:

• 14 Mtr. 3030 aluminum extrusions
• 48x M8*16-25 Button Head Screw
• 6x Feet with mounting Kit for 3030 Profile
• 10x 90°-Angles for 3030 Profile with mounting kit

Tools:

• Screwdriver with bits for screws
• Drill
• Drillbit 6-8mm
• Allen Key
• Chopsaw 1)
• M8 Tap 1)

Guide:

1. Cut extrusions to length 1) (F.e. 50cm spacing, 5cm tire width 50cm tire slot lenght, 25cm elevation. You'd need 1x2m, 20x50cm, 2x83cm, 10x11cm, 2x25cm)
2. Cut M8-Thread into 20x50cm, 2x83cm and 2x25cm 1)
3. Drill 6-8mm holes into 3030 Profiles corresponding to M8-Thread locations.
4. Fit Everything together.
5. Profit

1. Only nececary if you cut the extrusions to length yourself. If you order the correct extrusion length pretapped you don't need those.

Thank you for the replies yesterday about my drill. I think I'm going to get a cheap corded SDS drill and some big bits. This is what I need to feed through the wall and there is no way to detach the cable from the camera and feed it the other way. I know it needs to be weather shielded, but this is a mad amount of connectors!

The icon is a little different to what I've seen on others and I don't know how to tell otherwise.

Thanks!

How are these usually attached to the wall? Can I just pry them off or would that damage the drywall?

And follow up questions: how can I reproduce that texture when painting the newly exposed areas of the wall?

Does anyone know the best way to make this ramp nonslip? We get a fair amount of ice and snow and there are a couple elderly folks using the ramp.

We tried a basic nonslip rubber mat, but the grooves just hold ice and snow so don't really help.

Our current ideas are maybe adding rubber stair treads every board or two, or maybe tacking little strips of wood to every board.

I'm looking to install some cutoff switch on this 3-pin connector. It almost looks like a PC 4-pin 12v connector, but it actually connects to a Broan CRV motor. Specific model is the L150L.

I originally wanted a ventilator with a timer, but they installed an inline CRV (intake only) with a crazy 150CFM for a tiny 480sqft suite. Massively overkill, and loud. I'd prefer to put this on a timer, or even better would be a smart switch control. But at the very least a manual switch would be great.

For now, and for the last two years, I just have this unplugged, as shown in the image. The passive ventilation on the connected ducting has been more than enough to turn the air around. But sometimes it'd prefer to enable the intake for a time. I just can't have it on all the time because the air turnaround is nutty, not to mention the blast of cold air in the middle of winter.

Any ideas for a switch that fits this connector, or a DIY switch, and/or something to hook to a timer, OR smart switch somehow?

Hi

I installed a circular flap on my ducting for my bathroom vent. This was because outside air was spilling into the bathroom. I've installed a round flap on the ducting which is meant to sit closed unless the the extractor fan pushes air against it to open. It does work but also air from outside seems to swing it open, so I can hear it flap open and close during windy spells.

It's located in the loft about 20cm after the extractor unit, with the remaining 1m og ducting going into the sophet fascia before exiting downwards outside.

Is this something as silly as putting the flap on backwards? I assume not as the flap would be closed when the fan is on and there hasn't been any extractor issues.

Not sure how it happened but my inclination is dry Rot. I don't see much of any mold or mildew around and the room does not feel damp or smells moldy so I'm really not sure if fungus is the cause. I'm trying to finish the space and frame a wall under this joist but I'm afraid that I won't be able to nail into it since it looks like shredded paper. I looked up some techniques to strengthen floor joists so my main ask is:

What is this? How does it happen? And how can I repair it DIY? (Some people online recommend consulting a structural engineer, but I'd rather not if possible) I was thinking of sistering the joists, but with it being a pocket joist I'm not sure if that's ideal.

Added a second picture for what I think is the dry Rot, but it looks small and not dangerous?