A little m81 for the 9!

I was asking for some help because i couldn't get into the index on my phone using mlem, it just keeps loading, obviously i can use my computer still. but im not sure what to do. any help?

So yeah, someone should totally design a mostly printed Uzi in 22lr.

Obviously it also needs to be super safe, be integrally suppressed, and most importantly, it needs to be printable on a shitty unmodified ender 3 that's is missing 17 screws and 2 stepper motors, and hasn't been leveled a single time in the history of, well, ever.

Oh, and it needs to be printable entirely in ~~extremely wet PLA.~~ overcooked pasta. Because fuck the price per kg and dry time of Pa6-cf.

Bonus points if the entire thing can be printed in 20 minutes, and if the CAD work is done by 5:00 PM. Because I'm not patient enough to wait.

Ok, all shit posting aside, a mostly 3D printed Uzi would be dope AF. Not because the Uzi was particularly awesome. But because it was the most overhyped gun of the 80's and 90's and I have a nostalgia itch to scratch.

I've got a VSKA that is absolutely hammered dogshit and I'd like to convert it into a Plastikov build. I know nothing about AK-style rifles, so I was hoping for a little advice. Would the Plastikov v3 work to replace the furniture on the VSKA? Or, is there a better option out there? I'm willing to strip the parts from this thing to do something with it.

To the guys who really know their stuff: When you’re printing a frame or a lower, do you place the seams yourselves? Or do you trust the slicer’s auto-placement?

Ever since I found out that aligned seams are okay. I’ve started paying more attention to where they end up. Most of the time they land around the fcg/inside the threads of the fin which makes me nervous.

Was hoping to get some advice on the safest spot to put the seams?

Anyone know where I can find this file not on defcad? I don’t wanna pay their gay membership.

as the title says, my lil buddy is having issues getting it up. and out. it doesnt do it every time and normally i think its when i rack it like a pussy or dont have a good grip cuz when i grip&rip it works well. the ejector either isnt ejecting as it should? the extractor seems to be really fkn tight as well so idk if its a combo of things or if its a common thing with these or am i doing something wrong? have not had the chance to get it to the range so it might all be for naught but figured id see if its a one off and should re-print or what all ppl have to say

The Trash Panda has hit gold, keep your eyes peeled on the Gatalog and my Odysee pages soon!

Finally, I’ve made the step up to PA6-CF. Where I live it’s humid as fuck. That’s why I was totally set on using PA612… then I found out about PA12… and then I read here and saw someone mentioning PPA-CF / PAHT-CF.

Question: I know PA12-CF is quite a bit less hygroscopic… but does it still have enough strength anyway for a 5.56 lower? Same question for PPA-CF.

And by the way: if some of my posts sound weird or poorly worded, it’s because I’m using the “translation method” I just learned in the stealth section. Just to be safe.

So now that Form 1 approvals are rolling in, I thought we should have a place to catalog what descriptions, build methods, pictures, etc are getting approved. I know it would be a help to me as a first timer on this side of things, so surely it would help others as well.

In my case I have my trust setup and I’ve submitted my Form 4’s for transferring existing items to it. I’m ready to move on to Form 1’s for Suppressors and SBR’s.

I started working on my first Form 1 for a printed suppressor and the first hurdle I’ve run into is what to put in description box, and what needs to be uploaded for the pictures of materials, build methods etc. I started looking around and it seems to vary wildly with what people have submitted, but most of those instances never included whether or not it was approved.

So, what have you submitted for your builds that actually resulted in an approval??

this video is another vid about the FTN.4 and yes i know there are lots of these already and the 4 has proven itself time and time again but i post this because in the comments he mentions he is waiting on a form 1 for his FTN.5 which is the real meat of this sammich. i know id love to see any/all data and content on the 5 i can with it being so new and im sure there will be some useful info in there for PLAboi and anyone who may remix his stuff. 3RBallistics is just a decent channel in a sea of slop that deserves to be shared imo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ICg4n3FVNDc&lc=UgwWbrxCUBJAd8meu8x4AaABAg.AS89comMdiQAS8A1LxyIPb

First ever build was the Spectre SI15. Build guide said to melt a brass threaded insert into the lower. That way the pistol grip would be screwed into metal instead of plastic.

Reading the Ubar3 guide, Ivan chose to tap threads into the lower. I trust Ivan’s judgement because he’s been polishing the ubar for 10ish years. In my mind though… the brass threaded insert seems like it’d be stronger since it’s metal on metal. Harder to strip out the threads etc.

Thing is.. with Ivan’s method you can use the actual screw that’s meant for the pistol grip. If you use the threaded brass insert. It’s a much smaller flanged screw. I’m not sure what to think.

Would appreciate thoughts/advice.

Has anyone gotten form 1 approval for making AOWs?

I have a list of ideas that fall into the AOW category. Just wondering if anyone had had success with paperwork approval.

has anyone done one in a while? idk how old this design is but since i found this years ago this has been my penultima build and ive finally added and sliced the jigs and saved them to my projects folder which normally means its one of the next things im working on. i had actually thoguht i lost them and for some reason i couldnt for the life of me find it online but i didnt remember the name

anyway, TLDR: are they as cool as they look?

Is this possible? I have a .22 version with a dedicated PSA .22 bolt. Wondering if I can do the same thing with a 9mm bolt instead of a MAC upper.

With the multitude of companies getting sued by RBT, how likely will they receive customer lists through court proceedings and in turn the lists become available to the government?

I was wondering if anyone has had success getting their tubes cerakoted black? I like the beefiness of the metal, but I do not like the look of silver. It looks a little jank. I also couldn’t find 2” tube in black even on McMaster.

How is everyone getting the super safety’s made in metal? I have seen that some cast them. Is there another cleaner option?

The TX22 Pillager Chassis V2 is finally released. I never actually made a public release of the V1 as there were too many things that just weren't ready. I plan on making this chassis design in other platforms. I would like some suggestions if the people wouldn't mind. I have already made a beta PY2A Glock 20 version.

I would like to avoid uploading fingerprints for an EFT file if possible. Has anyone submitted one set of (2) FD-258 cards for a batch of Form 1s? If I need two cards for every Form 1 cover letter I will probably get over my aversion to uploading the cards to generate an EFT.

Swear I remember a filter for the bersa thunder. Bought a kit stupid cheap, but I can't find the file. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Or am I imagining things?

I've had my parts kit laying around since the fist drop of the nylaug. I'm hopefully getting everything together to print some PA6 for the first time. Once I get that figured out I want to finally get the nylaug going. I see there are a few places with aluminum trunnions. Is this necessary or a worthwhile upgrade? Any other tips before starting?

Widened the hitchhikers shoulder piece and lock belonging to the retractable stock assembly. It doesn't interfere with ejection so the ump can be fired from all positions. It's a little wobbly fully extended in it's current iteration. It's 27.5 inches extended with the muzzle device shown so it's not quite an SBR. I'm not finished yet but if there's enough interest I'll upload its current iteration on my od account after work. I plan on modifying the rails and lock to get more stability out of them fully extended.

I just want to see what printable handguard options there are out there for old school standard AR uppers with spring retained handguard using the front sight post.

I've done a total of about 11 hours (3 of those over the last week) of searching for them over the last 2-3 years and I don't think I've found a single normal handguard that wasn't a free float. It's kind of blowing my mind, especially after looking at large sites like gatalog. I've kind of given up at this point, and don't know where else to look so I figured I would start asking around.

I'm not picky, but I wouldn't mind seeing some classic handguard designs and possibly some with m-lok if any exist. I appreciate anything even remotely relevant though because I haven't found one. I finally gave up and went to ask on r/fosscad on reddit, and now I'm here... Finally.

Again, thanks to anyone who takes a second to send me a link to one.

Is there any other variants or modifications anyone is familiar with? The most obvious iteration would be different calibers, alt designs (such as changing rachet arm spring retention from a post to a recess)