This is on the inside of the magwell. Both prints have weak under the mag release cut outs. The Middleton schnitzel has holes in it that didn’t show/or were missed in the slice. The picture on the left is unseenkillers remix of the schnitzel. The picture on the right is the Middleton. I followed the read me except I did 100 percent aligned rectilinear on one, and 99 gyroid on the other. Also used metallic polylite pla(don’t intend on using it, just testing). Running it at 60 gyroid right now to see if that’s the issue. I’ve calibrated polylite pla pro already. Never calibrated the metallic kind. Could that be it?

To the guys who really know their stuff: When you’re printing a frame or a lower, do you place the seams yourselves? Or do you trust the slicer’s auto-placement?

Ever since I found out that aligned seams are okay. I’ve started paying more attention to where they end up. Most of the time they land around the fcg/inside the threads of the fin which makes me nervous.

Was hoping to get some advice on the safest spot to put the seams?

Finally, I’ve made the step up to PA6-CF. Where I live it’s humid as fuck. That’s why I was totally set on using PA612… then I found out about PA12… and then I read here and saw someone mentioning PPA-CF / PAHT-CF.

Question: I know PA12-CF is quite a bit less hygroscopic… but does it still have enough strength anyway for a 5.56 lower? Same question for PPA-CF.

And by the way: if some of my posts sound weird or poorly worded, it’s because I’m using the “translation method” I just learned in the stealth section. Just to be safe.

First ever build was the Spectre SI15. Build guide said to melt a brass threaded insert into the lower. That way the pistol grip would be screwed into metal instead of plastic.

Reading the Ubar3 guide, Ivan chose to tap threads into the lower. I trust Ivan’s judgement because he’s been polishing the ubar for 10ish years. In my mind though… the brass threaded insert seems like it’d be stronger since it’s metal on metal. Harder to strip out the threads etc.

Thing is.. with Ivan’s method you can use the actual screw that’s meant for the pistol grip. If you use the threaded brass insert. It’s a much smaller flanged screw. I’m not sure what to think.

Would appreciate thoughts/advice.