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Found it on the curb, and I liked the design. Looks like solid wood, but the joints are all coming apart and look tricky to reinforce. Would you bother?

Adapter will go on sale via dealers at that point, although from what I read any 3rd party adapter (cheaper and available now) will work as well.

I'd like to make our front entryway lights motion sensing. However the wiring is a little complicated. And I'd like the lights to be operable normally if the automation doesn't work for some reason.

There are three light switches: one by the front door, one up the staircase at the landing, and one at the back of the entryway at another interior door. My favorite switch is the CloudFree motion sense switch, running Tasmota, but I don't see it or a similar switch available for three-way wiring.

There are two light fixtures: One hanging lamp, and one track light. The bulb in the hanging lamp is hidden, so although I could swap it out with something smart, it wouldn't be easy to just put a motion sensing bulb in there. And the bulbs in the track light are some small/unusual base, not something I can upgrade.

How would you automate the lights? Grateful for any ideas!

It took lots of repetition honing, stropping, going through setup, realizing the chip breaker was right on the edge of the blade, repeat, new error. The first picture is progress: small and crunchy, long and crinkley, long and papery.

Sharpening using Atoma 400/600/1200 diamond plates + a strop I had around. I found Wood By Wright's setup video helpful and have been enjoying Rex Kreuger's videos on sharpening and other things.

I worked so hard for these shavings, surely there's something fun to do with them.

I made a box joint jig following [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EyJof__nTR4](Woodfather's video). It's a nice simple/flexible design for those of us without a dado stack.

First try was very sloppy, but once I adjusted the key width and got my clamps set up better the fit is great. The scraps I had around were bed slats off the curb, which were very cupped. But they actually turned out pretty nicely (after plenty of cleanup).

Boiled linseed oil finish.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/20112075

I have two type-k thermocouples with breakouts from Adafruit, attached to a ESP8266 (Huzzah I believe). My oven was very old and didn't come with a temperature readout or any kind of preheating status (but thankfully also no builtin WiFi). The Tasmota device reports to HomeAssistant, which stores data in InfluxDb, which I can then chart in Grafana.

Here you can see the internal temperature got to 151F, and I was surprised to see how much the oven's temperature rebounded after I took the cakes out, despite being off.

The recipe is "Chocolate Lava Cakes For Two" from NYT Cooking. It's one I make semi-regularly, pretty quick on a weeknight and delicious. I have small ramekins so the recipe makes three and they cook a little faster than the recipe's would.

I've built the section of the table that flips. On the saw side, I have 1-1/2" to build up so the bed of the saw is flush with the rest of the table. How would you attach the saw so it's secure to flip upside down?

The top only has holes at the front, for inserting a side clamp.

Maybe bolt through the ends into a block underneath?

I decided to sand down the top, drawer front, and low shelf edges, but leave the spindles alone. I tried to match the stain but the one I bought (and tried on a hidden area) came out too red, so I skipped staining. Luckily several coats of poly ended up close enough.

Before (previous post):

It has seen some water damage and the varnish is flaking off (especially on the top). But I don't necessarily have the time/energy for a full strip/sand/refinish, especially as this may get dinged up; I'm just looking for a reasonably pleasing look.

Looking at the bare wood that was between assembled pieces, it looks like the piece was stained and then varnished. What's a good way to get the old flaking varnish off without messing up the stain -- Citristip, just sanding? Thinking I'll just put some coats of new polyeurethane varnish on as the new finish. Most instructions I see online are for a really thorough refinishing, so I'm wondering if there's some middle ground that will clean up the worst of the water damage and protect the wood, even if it doesn't look like new.

Closer view of the top:

Another angle below. Very dinged up and the end and legs were missing, but seemed like to much hardwood to pass to.

My family had one from decades ago that's falling apart, so I made a replacement. I went with toothpicks as little dowels to help join the crossbars to their supports, since the flat glue joint didn't hold for all of them.

I had this one on my list for a while, but also recently found a video from 3x3 Custom doing the same project.