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submitted 1 week ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

This is really RV improvement, not home improvement, but I figure you would appreciate this.

We have a 1995 Airstream travel trailer that we bought in 2011. It still has the original rooftop air conditioner, which still cools very well.

During one trip, the air conditioner seemingly stopped working, but when I turned the thermostat down all the way, it cycled on again. After some trial and error, we found that it was now about 10 degrees off - if we wanted 72 degrees inside, we had to set the thermostat to 62. "Well," I said. "This thing is probably on the way out, and we'll be buying a new AC soon."

That was August, 2013. It continued to work that way until this January, during a trip to Disney World in Florida. It was cold enough early on that we didn't need the AC at all; in fact we got a picture of ourselves in the Magic Kingdom wearing our winter coats.

Later in our stay, it did warm up enough to need the AC, but now, with the thermostat on the lowest setting possible (60), we were only getting down to about 78 in the trailer. I had the trailer on a trip a few weekends ago, and had the same thing then; the problem didn't magically fix itself. Both times, it cooled and cycled on and off perfectly, as though 78 was the temperature I had selected.

78 isn't too bad, but it's like, what's next? When will it decide that, say, 90 is low enough? We travel with pets, and it's just not something I want to deal with. And neither of us sleep well in warm temperatures - and inevitably the cats and dog will curl up with us in that situation, making matters worse.

Maybe I'm cheap, but I hate to toss a working AC unit. And I like how that unit works - it's quieter than many new ones (not at all quiet, but quieter), and it can either run the fan constantly or change the fan speed as needed. It also has a heat strip, basically an electric heater, whereas newer ones have a heat pump instead - more efficient, but they don't work below about 45 degrees (I know home units can do much better than that, but RV units do not).

Note for this, the thermostat is right on the unit in the ceiling - it's not a separate part on the wall like in a house or even in newer RVs. Or even in some other RVs of that era, really. The actual control to set the temperature is a slider with markings that run from 60 to maybe 90.

Anyway, I figured the problem had to be either in the slider to set the temperature, or however it sensed the temperature. The slider seemed unlikely, because the issue is extremely consistent, and you'd think the slider wearing out would mean it would work sometimes and not others, that sort of thing, especially in a vehicle that gets bounced around on the road a lot. So that left the temperature sensor. I learned what a thermistor is - a variable resistor that changes resistance based on the temperature, and I realized one was mounted on the control board, with a section of the board carved away around it to let air get to it easily.

I ordered an assortment of thermistors from Amazon. I guessed it might be a 10k ohm thermistor, but I really didn't know for sure, and if the old one is bad, I can't trust the readings from it. I still can't find any documentation that states it either - it's 30 years old, and RV air conditioners tend to be disposable, and even if someone did diagnose it, they'd probably just replace the board. So, figuring I had nothing to lose, I desoldered the old one and soldered in a new 10k thermistor, and I put the board back in the AC.

IT WORKED! With the thermostat set to 70, it cycled off at about 72, which is good enough for us (and within the bounds of measurement errors on the thermometers I was using). Putting the thermistor in the cold air flow for a moment caused it to cycle off immediately. I'll have to test it more to see if the thermostat is roughly accurate (there are different 10k thermistors), but it's definitely usable, even if the thermostat isn't perfectly accurate.

Total cost, about $12 and a few hours, most of that sitting in an air conditioned trailer to see what would happen. Versus probably $1500 for a new AC installed. And I learned something and practiced my rarely used desoldering and soldering skills!

Now I just have to find a use for the other 99 thermistors...

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[-] [email protected] 19 points 1 week ago

“It’s already fucked, might as well try” is some advice I heard many years ago and stuck with me. An educated guess is better than just giving up!

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Yeah I've saved a few things that way - nothing to lose, so let's try it. Often it doesn't work...but other than some time, I've lost nothing.

The previous owners built a koi pond on the property (though there aren't any actual koi in it...I'm not sure what breed of fish are in it). After we moved in we had a local shop come and clean it, and they suggested replacing the filter, so we did that. The new one uses a UV light to help kill some types of algae and keep it clear. Unfortunately the ballasts for those UV lights are, frankly, garbage, and I've replaced it a few times. I was able to figure out that the switch that detects whether the ballast is installed properly doesn't trigger, so I've used tape to deal with that....then an animal chewed the wires right where they come out of the ballast.

I've been trying to pry it apart to get to the wires to fix it, but I just can't get it to open up. It's just chewing up the casing. But I guess the same thing applies, nothing to lose.

I really should just look for a better filter.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Yep the real challenge is understanding when it’s fucked vs when it’s slightly off kilter and a professional can give it a stern look and fix it, but with most things these days it’s always a “well, we can get you a new module, but it’s on back order; it’ll take 6 weeks to come in, maybe buy a new widget”.

In lieu of nothing, there’s UV lights for drinking water that might fit the need that are reasonably reliable… or maybe just a binge of bigclive opening things up might give the key for cracking that UV light. good luck!

[-] [email protected] 8 points 1 week ago

Awesome. Good job! That is one of the best feelings, when you nail a repair like that.

[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago

Thanks. Definitely flying high this evening!

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

That's a great idea. I'll have to remember that when mine starts acting up.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Odds are pretty good you'll have some other issue...but if you need a thermistor, hit me up!

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

I've definitely got a soft spot for any electromechanical appliances. Computers have gotten so cheap that every appliance built now runs on them, but it's much harder (for me, at least) to do anything about it when one stops working.

  • My chest freezer stopped working, and i was able to put in a new relay for $2. The circuit diagram made it easy to diagnose with a multimeter. Oddly enough, i had to buy a 10 pack, so i likewise have a bunch of spares I'll never need.

  • My dishwasher stopped working, and the manual specifically showed which wires to connect to to test resistance of each component to see if anything needed to be replaced. It turned out that the float was gunked up, so it read as having enough water even though it didn't.

  • My fridge ice maker stopped working, and I just had to stick in a jumper wire to put it through a test cycle that immediately made it clear what was going wrong (a short), and i was able to fix it.

This is all in contrast to my clothes washer that runs on a computer, and it gives me an error message that basically just means "it's not draining right", and there's like 8 potential causes, and I've tried to address them all, but it's still get the error message.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

I have to admit I did find one nice thing about our electronically driven washer. We bought a new washer and dryer when we moved to this house, and the washer was fine for a few weeks, then errored out on a load of delicates. Tried restarting it, same issue. Unplugged it, plugged it back in, same issue. I was starting to get upset when I realized that the "cold" water hose was hot. The handles on our valves are reversed. The washer realized it was filling with hot water and gave an error instead of ruining the clothes. Swap the hoses, and it has worked perfectly since.

Other than having to replace the tensioner on the dryer's belt, they've been totally reliable.

Our dishwasher died a year or two ago. I realized it wasn't circulating the water, so I replaced the pump. Unfortunately that didn't fix the issue, so I wasted over $100 on the pump. Likely it was the transformer or controller for that pump, but I was tired of not having a dishwasher and replaced it. I still have the new pump, I should ebay it...

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

One of my friends had their water hookups backwards, too, and they had no clue until I checked after they complained to me about how all their clothes were shrinking despite only ever washing on cold and hang drying. Sounds like a nice feature to have a sensor in there.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Yeah. I had noticed it seemed steamy in the washer after loads finished, but I didn't put it together until the washer caught the issue.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago

Good stuff, always good to do these small repairs. I had something similar this week too, I found and replaced a rubber ring in a cabinet door, just knowing I spent basically nothing instead of replacing the whole door felt great

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

Yeah, it's a great feeling!

this post was submitted on 18 May 2025
87 points (98.9% liked)

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