1
56
Current build! (lemmy.world)
submitted 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I have always dreamed of having a good computer after years of using very old stuff. Current build has a Ryzen 7 5800X, 32 GB of RAM, and an RX 6700 XT. Recently changed keyboards and also bought a new drawing tablet!

Best thing of all is that this entire build, aside from the peripherals (other than the headphones), the storage, the case and the cooler, was built with used parts. It took me a while of researching and picking up good deals, but I finally have a computer that would make my 25 year old self geeked.

The build itself is this one, altho it does have some things as a placeholder. My motherboard is actually a Brazilian variant of that same one in the list (PRIME B450M-GAMING /BR), the memory sticks are Gloway Tiance IIs that I bought in Aliexpress, and the second monitor (not the AOC one) is a white label one from a Brazilian retailer (Pichau Athen V2 CV24) who shares the same specs and format.

2
29
submitted 1 day ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

According to some benchmarks, some Intel ARC GPUs are better than some AMD ones. However, I have not seen many people actually using them for gaming. Are there any drawbacks when using these GPUs? Should I get an AMD RX 7600 or an Intel ARC B570 for about the same price and why?

3
17
submitted 2 days ago* (last edited 2 days ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

cross-posted from: https://infosec.pub/post/32005086

When the postie comes, I'll be building a PC for the first time in years. What are the do's, don'ts and tips nowadays?

Obviously classics like RTFM, plan ahead and retrieve any dropped screws are evergreen.

Things I believe are true: tighten your CPU cooler screws evenly (like putting on a car tyre), all screws should be no more than finger tight, build in a dust-free environment.

What about grounding yourself? I remember reading that the danger of this was way overstated and e.g. anti-static wrist straps were a waste of money. Is building in a case that's plugged in (but powered off) enough?

I've seen recommendations to build outside of the case first to test components - is this good advice?

Anything else?

4
256
submitted 4 days ago* (last edited 4 days ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

My 2nd build ever and first time building on my own. I was happier than a pig in mud when it power on and posted on the first attempt.

My build (nothing fancy, just for some 1080p gaming):

  • AMD Ryzen 7 7700X
  • 32 GB G.Skill Flare X5 DDR5
  • ASRock AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT
  • Gigabyte B650 X AV V2 Motherboard
  • CoolMaster Master Liquid 240L Core ARGB
  • Cosair RM850e Power Supply (850W, Gold)
  • Cosair 3500X Mid Tower Case
  • 2TB PNY XLR8 NVMe Gen4 M.2 Drive*

*Edited: Forgot to add the storage.

5
10
submitted 3 days ago* (last edited 3 days ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I'm hacking together a gaming/fluid simulation pc from a lenovo thinkcentre m700 sff. I've already got everything set up. The problem is that the only riser i managed to find has a 90° bend to the left. (Looking from where the bracket would be.) The problem is that like this my only way to make it fit is to turn the 3060 fans up. With the extra psu powering it under it. With ~7 cm of clearance. (i'll make some stands to hold it properly) What i'm not sure is if it's going to make a big difference that it's going to push hot air downwards. The power supply fan runs continuously and it draws air downwards and out of the back. But i don't know if it will be enough.

What do you think. Is it going to make it get hotter a lot?

6
92
submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Long story short; I bought a pc from a second hand market. It got completely destroyed during shipping. It got covered so no worries there, but im still left with some broken parts I'd like to fix. Among them is this Noctua cooler. This has been heavily bent, is it safe to bend it back again or is it going to require a lot of heat?

Thanks for any suggestions!

UPDATE :

Getting close! Surprisingly easy to vend back fix sone very slowly. Hoping to test it soon.

7
27
M.2 SSDs for Laptops (programming.dev)
submitted 3 weeks ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

So back a few years ago the SK hynix Gold P31 was the GOAT for laptops due to the low idle wattages and low usage wattages. This allowed you to squeeze about 10% extra battery life out of your laptop.

Is that still considered the best M.2 drives for laptops in terms of power usage?

8
120
submitted 4 weeks ago* (last edited 4 weeks ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

This has been my reliable Power Supply for my Battle Station from 2018 until now. Today when I turned on my RIG, she didn't post... or do anything.

Tested this PSU on my older Motherboard, it didn't post, and when I took my SO's PSW it did.

I think my RIG will be fine, it was working with my older PSW. But only time (and a new PSW) will tell.

9
12
submitted 4 weeks ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I'm looking to buy an RX 9060 XT and was hoping to collect more sources comparing different models. I'm mainly looking for noise & temperature comparisons between the base models available.

So far the best source I found is Techpowerup. They have comparisons for stock behaviour and noise normalised between the 6 models they tested. Sapphire Radeon RX 9060 XT Pulse OC 16 GB Review
Unfortunately, they've mostly tested the huge triple fan designs until now. From the base models, the Reaper has terrible cooling and the Sapphire Pulse unfortunately only offers 1 DisplayPort connector.

Hardware Unboxed also only compares 3 higher end models in their review. AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB Review, Gaming Benchmarks!

Does anyone have reviews for the other base models, XFX Swift (dual fan) and ASRock Challenger?

10
151
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]
11
19
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I accidentally moved my PC while the antenna cables were caught on something, leading to them ripping. would I be able to just solder the connector bit to the cable?

12
26
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I've already posted this on a forum on pcpartpicker but no one replyed;

hello everyone tks for clicking on my post. so i have a laptop I've using for 2years now just watching learning video editing by watching tutorials on it and i found out that video editing apps are very demanding specially adobe apps.. my dell latitude 5590 re-brushed i bought for 3000 Moroccan DH (around 300$) ( i5 8th gen / 8gb ram / intel UHD graphics 620) can't run these apps.. so i find myself obligated to build a PC. but i have a low budget so I'm gonna need to buy re-brushed parts. I'm new to this.. I'm asking for your help guys!!

I just wanna build a PC that can run premiere and after effects smoothly for video editing at 1080p I don't edit at 4k so i don't need a super build.

Note: the budget below is just for the PC not the Peripherals too.

  • Budget: 400$ - 600$
  • Location: Morocco
  • Use : video editing (premiere and after effects).
  • Peripherals required (monitor, keyboard/mouse, etc): since it's my first build i need everything the mouse, the keyboard, and the monitor.
  • Operating System required: windows 11 pro.

I want in advance to thank everyone in this forum who give his time in effort to help nobs like me! much respect for you guys!

13
26
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

This makes it much easier to set your screen's brightness to a comfortable level at each time of the day, and to save energy.

(For Windows, see the very bottom of this post.)

On Linux, if you currently have no keyboard shortcuts for that available, a good way to create them is via ddcutil. Once you have ddcutil installed, have your displays' properties printed in the command line by typing ddcutil detect.

This should show you a list of parameters for each of the displays you have connected. For a display of your choice, try these commands:

ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 - 5 # reduces brightness by 5 %
ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 + 5 # increases brightness by 5 %

ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 12 - 10 # reduces contrast by 10 %
ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 12 + 10 # increases contrast by 10 %

ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 0 # sets brightness to minimum
ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 100 # sets brightness to maximum

If these commands all work, you can create in your desktop environment's settings (e.g. KDE) custom keyboard shortcuts that execute these commands. Personally, with my two displays and with dedicated "Brightness up" and "Brightness down" keys (macros) on my keyboard, I am using combinations with the modifiers Alt to address the secondary instead of the primary display, Shift, to adjust contrast instead of brightness, and Control to set an absolute value (0% or 100%) instead of going by increments.


Further notes:

Instead of addressing your displays via their serial number, you can also address your display via most other parameters shown in ddcutil detect by using another option than -n, e.g. via bus number or manufacturer name, but I've found that bus number is not persistent over the years, and manufacturer name ("Mfg id") may contain spaces which may lead to problems.

A full list of all other possible vcp commands (the numbers after setvcp) can be obtained through ddcutil vcpinfo.

If you're using a laptop, brightness adjustments for its internal screen are of course almost always a no-brainer.


On Windows 10 and perhaps 11 as well, you can apparently do the following:

Step 1: Press the Win + A to open the Action Center.

Step 2: Press Shift + Tab to select the brightness slider.

Step 3: Use the left and right arrow keys to adjust the screen brightness.

14
18
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I'm coming from a Logitech G815.

What I liked:

  • low profile keycaps and body;
  • aluminum body;
  • USB port to plug my mouse into it instead of into the PC;
  • backlit;

What I disliked:

  • switches (presses would register way before feedback);
  • proprietary app for macros, and other configs;

What I'm looking for:

  • mechanical tactile/clicky;
  • backlighting (through the keycap, as I need to see the keys I'm pressing);
  • smaller form factor but with tenkey;
  • shipped to and from EU;
  • wired;
  • US international layout;

What I'd like on top, but I can compromise:

  • low profile keycaps and body;
  • RGB backlighting;
  • aluminum body;
  • adult/sleek design;

Usage will be gaming (no competitive) and a lot of typing. Budget is the main problem, as I'd like to spend no more than 100-125€ but can stretch it to 150€ if it means having more criteria met.

What I looked at so far: Logitech, but the prices aren't quite there and I wasn't happy with the G815's switches; Keychron, but most of them don't seem to have lighting that goes through the keycaps?; Akko, seem to have the same "issue"; Monsgeek, seems to be more niche stuff and I can't find a small + 10key form factor.

Thanks in advance!

15
92
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Left is idle, right is under full gaming load (Helldivers 2). My previous rig (Intel) easily went up to 85-90°C in the same circumstances. Ambient temps are slightly elevated as well since we've been having ~30°C temps daily here for a while now.

To me this is almost ridiculous. I had never dreamed I could get my temps under load under 70. CPU is at stock speed since there is literally no reason to push it any further at this point. Can always choose to up the clocks later if I still want to.

Cooler is a Noctua NH-D15 G2. I don't see myself returning to watercooling any time soon. And Noctua has a new customer for life.

16
18
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I have a 3DConnexion Spacemouse. I bought it, and use it, for CAD work, but I'm drunk enough to think it'd be fun to play Satisfactory with. What do you think I'd need to do to map it to a controller or something? Am I gonna have to fuck around with the Python library? It's been awhile since I've fucked around with a Python library.

17
30
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I have an MSI MAG x870e Tomahawk WiFi mobo, and the temperature LED is just, like, SO bright.

I don't see an obvious way of changing its brightness or turning it off in the BIOS, so I'm thinking of cutting a 1"x0.5" rectangle of ND-8 photo gel and electrical taping it to the light.

Anyone know of a better way?

18
11
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Hi. I plan to upgrade my cpu from ryzen 5 5600x to ryzen 7 5800x3d. At first i asking chatgpt is my motherboard asrock B450m steel legend support 5800x3d or not. The answer really make me confused. It say related to bios. At first it said not compatible then second time asking it say compatible. Can i get everyone expert who know a lot more about pc. Is my bios ready for 5800x3d?

From msinfo32: BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. P10.31, 8/22/2024

Thank you

19
20
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

I have a B450 motherboard, 16gb DDR4 3200 RAM, 1660 Super gpu and a Ryzen 5 2600 CPU. I don't plan on updating the GPU this time, because I don't play a lot of games that require anything more, I'm playing a lot of older titles currently. The problem is this also makes me feel like I shouldn't update the pc at all.

I think I mostly just want to mess around with a decent home lab, but because I dont have an intended use case I'm struggling to justify. I also had parents who don't like to spend money on this sort of thing and I've got their disapproving voices in my head.

The plan is to upgrade to a 5900XT and 64 gb of ram and probably run a lot of virtual machines in a little lab environment but I'm not sure how often I'll have them all running so it could be overkill. The upgrade is about $700 all up too so not small but not too much. I know I'm extending the lifespan of a computer instead of e-wasting the entire thing but I'm still a little apprehensive.

Good idea or nah?

P.S. I run Linux Mint on all my machines if that somehow changes anyone's mind or is somewhat helpful? Can't let the arch users be the only ones to announce.

Edit: thanks for the replies. I went to bed so I'll try to reply to people as today goes. Thanks for the ideas and the one person who asked if I was a sex worker, you've made me laugh and think.

20
159
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Specs: CPU: Rysen 5 7600 GPU: RX 7700 XT RAM: 32 GB DDR5 5600mt/s Mobo: B650 Eagle AX Case: H5 Flow RGB Cooler: Arctic Freezer 36 A-RGB PSU: System Power 10 750w

21
19
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Okay I need some ideas. Firstly, this is a work computer and I do not have admin privileges. Second I'm doing this solely for my convenience.

We have a Dell Latitude 3540 and I'm running a generic second monitor that we happend to have around. We do not have a docking station, so we're using a spare Samsung K550 Soundbar to upscale the resolution on the second monitor through the ARC TV HDMI port. So it's, HDMI out from the laptop to the sound bar and then ARC HDMI out to the monitor. The issue, the sound bar goes to sleep after 5 minutes of no sound and I can't disable the auto off feature. This shuts off the feed to the second monitor and it doesn't resume automatically. I think if I can find some kind of timer that will send some sort of sound to the bar every 4 1/2 minutes or so, then it will stay active. I don't know how to do this. Does anyone have suggestions? TIA Tug

22
58
submitted 1 month ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Built this while shopping for a new monitor last month. PCPartPicker has a nice tool to find monitors, but it was missing things like rtings.com scores, number and type of ports, live prices, so I decided to build one.

23
29
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Writing this down because I'm not the only one having trouble with the unusual CMOS battery holder of certain HP OEM boards, in my case a HP Dorado OC Rev B motherboard from an Omen 30L or Omen 25L PC. Their battery holders are weird compared to others in that one cannot just push some lever to release the battery (cf. this Reddit thread). It turns out that the correct method apparently is to just wedge the battery out from below (there is ample of room between it and the board to fit a tool), as is shown in this video from minute 40:00 onward. It seems that a bit of force is actually necessary:

https://players.brightcove.net/1160438706001/ByLWUi0A_default/index.html?videoId=ref%3AREFIDNS35791002

(The video is linked on HP's support pages here (under "Service & Repairs (2) > Removing & Replacing Parts: OMEN by HP 40L Gaming Desktop PC"), so it seems to apply not just to Omen 40L's, but in fact also to Omen 30L's. The CMOS battery holder of my 30L does in fact look identical to the one from the 40L in the video. Everything at your own risk, obviously.)

For me, it worked like a charm and didn't even require as much force as I feared.

24
49
submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Im using PieFed https://join.piefed.social/ and i was very happy that it supports this Font by itself. I always download it and use it everywhere. Just download and click install, that works on Linux, Mac and Windows.

I didnt find a relevant PC instance so lets just say: Console Peasants cant even change their Fonts! xD

https://www.brailleinstitute.org/freefont/

25
25
submitted 2 months ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Sorry to have to make a post about this but it’s one of those things you need to be familiar with and I’m not.

I’m looking to upgrade from a 2060 Super to a Radeon as I’m mostly using Linux now. I’m not too fussed about buying new and I’d like to keep the cost down but if I’m changing I’d like to by something noticeably better than what I have. Any idea what’s a good buy in the market right now? I don’t care about ray-tracing.

view more: next ›

PC Master Race

18019 readers
53 users here now

A community for PC Master Race.

Rules:

  1. No bigotry: Including racism, sexism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
  2. Be respectful. Everyone should feel welcome here.
  3. No NSFW content.
  4. No Ads / Spamming.
  5. Be thoughtful and helpful: even with ‘stupid’ questions. The world won’t be made better or worse by snarky comments schooling naive newcomers on Lemmy.

Notes:

founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS