this post was submitted on 23 Aug 2023
10 points (81.2% liked)
Cars - For Car Enthusiasts
3920 readers
9 users here now
About Community
c/Cars is the largest automotive enthusiast community on Lemmy and the fediverse. We're your central hub for vehicle-related discussion, industry news, reviews, projects, DIY guides, advice, stories, and more.
Rules
- Stay respectful to the community, hold civil discussions, even when others hold opinions that may differ from yours.
- This is not an NSFW community, and any such content will not be tolerated.
- Policy, not politics! Policy discussions revolve around the concept; political discussions revolve around the individual, party, association, etc. We only allow POLICY discussions and political discussions should go to c/politics.
- Must be related to cars, anything that does not have connection to cars will be considered spam/irrelevant and is subject to removal.
founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
view the rest of the comments
And since hard braking isn't always optional, it's important to know how to avoid leaving significant pad deposits. Try to avoid completely stopping by leaving a little extra space to keep rolling slowly. Obviously it's not always possible due to traffic conditions, but I haven't had a "warped" rotor in about 10 years that hasn't been caused by a sticking caliper.
Rotors are almost never truly warped but rather have sticky spots from transferred brake pad material. The shaking comes from the sudden higher braking force of the sticky spot coming around again, forcing the car's momentum to try to pivot around that one wheel. A truly warped rotor doesn't change the braking force much as long as the floating caliper is free to slide. If they do get deposits, you can also try cleaning them with the "brake bedding" sequence used for new pads. It's a mix of high speed and hard/moderate brake applications followed by a 10 minute steady speed cool down drive. Just remember: don't fully stop