14
3D Print ABS Without A Screaming Hot Bed
(hackaday.com)
you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
view the rest of the comments
this post was submitted on 30 May 2025
14 points (88.9% liked)
3DPrinting
18475 readers
206 users here now
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
founded 2 years ago
MODERATORS
The challenge with ASA and ABS re:warping is chamber temps, not so much bed temperature. Both shrink pretty significantly compared to PLA and if your chamber is too cool and/or your print is too big or has difficult geometry you're going to be in for a rough time.
I'm curious about ASA & TPU currently, and looking into best practices (began my printing journey in 2018 w/ a Mk1S & a Phrozen Mini duo) before jumping in, so this is helpful info, thank you (& OP, et al). 🤓
No one answered so I will:
Have an enclosed printer! You won't be able to print anything larger than a couple of cm otherwise. Also make sure to not have air gaps, any cold air getting in can potentially lift up a corner.
You need a good first layer, even more so than with PLA. Have it squish a little more so that it sticks to the build plate like crazy.
Preheat your chamber passively with the bed. With my enclosed Ender 3 I did 10 minutes before large prints.
High bed temps: you might get away with 90°C at the lowest but 100°C is recommended.
When a print starts to lift off the build plate there's no fixing it. Either you're fine with the warp (and some squished layers/deformation) or you have to restart the print. No way to sugar-coat this.
Turn down part cooling as much as your overhangs allow, though with a hot enough chamber you might get away with "a lot" of cooling.
Print with brim or adhesion tabs! Mind the geometry of your part: models with tall walls will tend to warp more.
Tl;dr: printing ABS can be cruel, but it rewards you with strong, light parts that stay in shape even at high ambient temps like a car interior.
Awesome, thanks, and wilco!