I Made This

Never done this before, turned out to be a lot of fun :)

I wanted to do something for Halloween. This is the result. 

I started by slapping some plastic wrap on the front of an anatomical skull model. This provided a form for the paper mache model, which I built up in layers using strips of newsprint and a PVA glue mixture. 

After the paper mache was dry, I popped it off the form and filled it with spray foam. Since I knew I wanted to use phosphorescent paint for the eyes, I painted the inside of the eye sockets with white gesso.   Once the gesso dried, I applied a few layers of phosphorescent acrylic paint to the eye sockets. 

I then poked holes for the mouth stitching and glued strands of sisal twine into these holes (I should have done this part before filling the back with spray foam, but for some dumb reason I thought this way would be easier).

Once the stitches dried, I gave the whole piece a series of brown and blue acrylic washes, then dry brushed accents with bone and white. Next came the arcane symbols, which I slapped on with hobby acrylics. 

The final step was to give the whole piece a few coats of matte acrylic sealant.

I'm not sure what I'll do with this yet, but I had fun.

Yes, these already exist, usually without the colors though. I just thought it would be fun to make a dual purpose cube by Dremeling and coloring the dots in myself, while still keeping the colored decals.

Hello,

I been working on this website/app these last few years, basically trying to show that there are a lot of very hard working people trying to make the world a better place and the news you choose to focus on has a big impact on your mood/life so try to not get too absorbed into the negative sensationalized media. My website/app offers an alternative way to stay informed. Would love to hear feedback on potential improvements.

Sincerely, Happy Daze

more of a goofy and fun project, I wouldn’t say it was practical, and definitely won’t change the world... but I enjoyed it, and it got a lot of laughs and acted as a good conversation starter. Hopefully yall find the humor in it :)

I tried to make a phone "wallet" case. I used the inside of my old one (what you press your phone into), cardboard from a an old box and some leftover vinyl flooring. I originally wanted to glue everything but ended up stapling some bits. these pics where hastily made and don't do the thing justice. Let's see how well this holds up (I seldom have it in my pocket so that helps).

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/22165919

This entry of mine will not match the customary craftsmanship found in this community, but seeing as this was formerly a pile of miscellaneous, warped scrap 2x4 segments recovered from old pallets, I think I've made a reasonable show of things.

This bench is for my homegym, designed to be stood upon, which is why there's a rubber mat inlaid on the surface, a leftover of the gym floor. My design criteria called for even the edge of the top surface to support weight, so the main "box" of the bench uses 2x4 segments mitered (badly) together at 45 degrees, held together with wood glue.

I then routed the inner edge to support a 1/2" plywood sheet, which is screwed into the box. And then the rubber mat is glued down to the sheet, so there are no visible screws.

Finally, the legs are also 2x4 segments, cut so the bench sits 43 cm (~17 inch) from the floor; this is only coincidentally similar to the IPF weightlifting bench standards. I used screws instead of glue, just in case the legs needed to be shortened later.

All edges were rounded over with a 1/2" bit, as the bench is expected to be picked up and moved frequently. And everything stained in cherry and clear-coated.

Some of the annoyances from using scrap included:

• Stripping old paint off. Awful chemicals, awful scrubbing, awful disposal.
• Sanding away twists along the 2x4 segments
• Filling nail holes or arranging them so they don't draw attention
• My lack of experience with clamping and gluing wood that's not dimensionally consistent

If I were to do this again, I'd figure out a way to reduce the amount of routing needed for the inner edge, since I essentially removed 0.75 inch by 1.5 inch of material all around the edge. This took forever, and perhaps a CNC machine would have simplified things, in addition to squaring and planing the surfaces before mitering.

WIPs and Paint Tool SAI file download: https://archive.org/details/furred-beast-angel

Brand new drawing I just finished! 😃 I really wanted to draw something furry and a seraphim type of angel as opposed to an ophanim, and this was the result! I call this one "FURRED BEAST"! It was so fun to draw!!

This one started out in my backyard, deciding I wanted to try to sample my ukulele on the EP133. It then sorta just grew into this summer track.

Setup: EP133: Ukulele sample, drums and a few other samples. Micromonsta 2: Leads, custom patches by me. Exquis: Midi controller in MPE mode controlling the MM2. MM2 goes into the input on the EP133. Recorded directly into OBS on a Motu M2 interface.

Postproduction: Slight EQ adjustments in Davinci Resolve before render.

I really wanted to draw something that was sort of the opposite of an ophanim, so I thought why not draw angel that isn’t flaming metallic rings with eyes, but something made of ice crystals which emits ice/frost? I hope you all enjoy!!

WIPs: https://imgur.com/a/13FvomA

Full Size: https://i.imgur.com/6HQ0u3h.png

WIPs: https://imgur.com/a/x76pcMi

Full Size: https://imgur.com/a/hj4jYQU

It's Cosmos from Transformers! 😃 🛸 I had a ton of fun drawing it!!

WIPs: https://imgur.com/a/1prHu16

Full size: https://i.imgur.com/tVJxOyg.png

I posted this one to [email protected] too, as I do most of my furniture projects, but I'm particularly proud of how this one came out. Solid white oak with genuine mortise-and-tenon joinery.

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/20965205

This is the story of how I turned a 15" Titan adjustable dumbbell to be 80 cm (31.5 inch) long. Why? Because I have a space-constrained home gym but still wanted a leg press, and so I had to remove its original barbell.

In its place, I built a pair of wood mounts for a normal barbell to rest upon, covered in that earlier post. However, since this machine is wall-adjacent, such a barbell would have to fit inside the width of the leg press, so about 80 cm. But must also be wider than the spacing from outside-edge to outside-edge of the wood mounts, which is 60 cm.

Such a short barbell -- or long dumbbell -- does not readily exist commercially, with the narrowest one I've seen being 48 inch barbells, which are still too wide. So I decided to build my own, using my spare Titan dumbbell as the base.

To start, the Titan dumbbells are excellent in this capacity, as the shaft diameter is 28 mm -- not 32 mm as the website would indicate -- which is a common diameter, if I am to cut short a cheap barbell to replace this dumbbell's shaft.

In keeping with my preexisting frugality, I purchased a cheap 1-inch barbell, hoping that it adopts the Olympic 28 mm shaft diameter, and not the 29 mm deadlift bar shaft diameter, as the Titan collars have small clearances. Matching neither, I find that this bar is closer to 23 mm, which although will fit into the existing collars, poses its own issues.

Nevertheless, this 7 ft barbell can conveniently be cut in half to yield two 42 inch segments. And then the included bar stops can be loped off, and then the length further refined to 77 cm, thus hiding the marks from the bar stop within the Titan collars, and also centering the (meh) knurling from the cheap bar.

But perhaps a picture will be more explanatory. Here, the original collar is dismantled at the top, showing the original shaft with a groove cut into it, about 1/4-inch from the end. Into that groove would fit two half-rings with an inner diameter of 20.4 mm and an outer diameter of 40 mm. In fact, all the parts inside the collar use 40 mm outer diameter, except the spacer cylinder, which is smaller at 37 mm. All of these parts are held captive within the collar using the C-ring and the geometry of the collar itself.

To deal with the difference between the collar expecting 28 mm, and the cheap bar's 23 cm, I designed an ABS 3d printed part in FreeCAD to act as a bushing, upon which the original Titan brass bushing will ride upon. This ABS bushing is held captive by way of its center bulge, which fits within the dead space inside the collar.

As for how I cut the groove into the end of the new shaft, I still don't own a lathe. So the next best is to mount an angle grinder onto a "cross slide vise" taken from a drill press, with the shaft secured in a wooden jig to only allow axial rotation manually. The vise allows precision control for the cutting wheel's depth, with me pausing frequently to measure how close the groove is to the desired 20.4 mm inner diameter. This is.... not a quick nor precise process. But it definitely works.

After reassembling both collars onto the new shaft and lubricating with white lithium, the final result is a long dumbbell (or short barbell) with Titan's 3.5 inch collars on the end, with 63 cm of shaft exposed and 80 cm from end to end. The ABS bushing is remarkably smooth against the brass bushing, after some sanding with 180 grit. The whole dumbbell weights 5.48 kg empty.

Here is the comparison with the stock Titan dumbbell. It's pretty amazing how the knurling conveniently lined up. It fits well onto the wood mounts of the leg press.

But why would I do all this just to add a weirdly long 3.5-inch collar dumbbell to a leg press, when it already can accept weights underneath the carriage? I will answer that in a follow-up post.

This is Goodie! He’s a mischievous little angel who is young, but has to start somewhere… He loves nothing more than confiscating precious items from the demons, including gold and magical time reversing watches!

Some WIPs: https://imgur.com/a/ShsBCyz

Full size: https://i.imgur.com/Ac5wecp.png

Furry serpents? Furry serpents.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/16352007

Still needs some design corrections because I just didn't know how to properly do 3D print and industrial design but it works!

cross-posted from: https://sh.itjust.works/post/20133956

With the exception of the weight stack for my functional trainer and its change plates, I wanted all my subsequent equipment to be metric. To that end, I saw some cheap 45 lbs CAP bumper plates, and figured that I could make them into metric with not too much effort.

Some rough math prior to purchasing suggested that these plates -- with a width of 68 mm -- could be slimmed down from 20.4 kg (45 lbs) to nearly 20.0 kg, by boring two 2" holes (51 mm). To keep balance, the holes should be on on diametrically opposite ends. And should be neither too close to the edge, nor too close to the center, since the plate still needs to absorb a drop without deforming. That the bored holes are 51 mm is a fantastic happenstance, nearly identical to the center hole for Olympic-spec plates.

Examining each plate before drilling, I found that the silkscreen letter A in "CAP" is well-centered diametrically, although it doesn't line up with the matching logo on the back side. Also, since these are cheap CAP plates, the initial weight tolerances are pretty poor. 45 lbs should be 20.41 kg (2 sig figs), but my first four plates registered at 20.58, 20.51, 20.64, 20.56. That's nearly an extra half pound!

To drill the holes perfectly plumb, I did the work on a drill press using a 2-inch hole saw. Because the saw wasn't deep enough to go through the full width in one pass, I started with a 1/4-inch (6 mm) pilot hole straight through the tip of the letter A in "CAP". Then I drilled from both sides with the hole saw until a ~200 gram rubber core fell out. Repeat for the second bore.

To finish, I took some sandpaper to remove the old "45 lbs" markings, then used my label maker to affix new values. All plates are still high, but ranged from 20.030 kg to 20.105 kg. Not too shabby, I think.

In a happy coincidence, the position of these bored holes is perfect for one's thumbs when grasping the plate like a steering wheel, making it easier to pick up when laid flat on the floor. I also added a strip of blue electrical tape around the perimeter to make it easy to identify these as 20 kg.

In the end, I got the cheap metric plates I wanted, and it came with a usability improvement as well. I've not dropped these yet, so time will tell how they hold up.

If you use the right ink, the right plastic keycaps made for mechanical keyboards, and the right settings on your laser, you can effectively dye-sublimate any design you want.

https://pixelfed.social/i/web/post/699804325565108276

New Jam! This time its all about the retro gaming feel. Started out as me having fun making new chiptune-like presets on the MicroMonsta 2, ended up as a Jam. 😎🤖

Don't worry, this little angel respawns whenever he's eaten, and tastes like raspberry!