u/Savage_Henry18 · 2025-05-28 18:23:53 UTC · score 16

VMAC 100%. Just make sure to get a stronger firing pin. Mine is from AVES and I’ve had no issues with it. The velocity one won’t hold up to AR fire control groups. Will snap the tip. AMHIK…lol.

u/Optimal_Fail_3458 · 2025-02-18 17:44:42 UTC · score 2

All of those should work fine, if you join the beta and post a picture of a kit you’re looking at we will help you make sure it has everything. Dm me an element id and I will add you.

u/redditlikezlittleboy · 2025-06-11 01:43:04 UTC · score 1

I assume pla+ could be used in place of cf? I live in a state that calls the ss a machinegun trigger. They also have cops who will shoot you 60 something times and say you died of natural causes. I'll stick with semi auto until I move.

u/eDJeFPV · 2025-01-27 09:31:57 UTC · score 3

The reHD22c upper can take heat inserts for the backplate

u/Knee_High_Cat_Beef · 2025-06-19 13:39:57 UTC · score 66

Why not just print it in one piece? You're adding more supports required by splitting it

u/Mundane_Space_157 · 2025-03-01 08:20:19 UTC · score 2

If you, like me, printed everything in the UMP 11/9 out of carbon fiber nylon, then the skin of your fingers is all cut up and calloused and probably full of microscopic shards of carbon fiber. Not good.

Designed this quick little TPU sleeve that slips right over the charging handle and makes it more comfortable to rack while sitting in your living room watching movies. You could glue it on but its snug enough to stay in place.

Print it out of the softest TPU you own and fenagle the settings to make it squishy. I used Ninjaflex.

Sailing the seas under the name "Scheissgeist".

u/Apprehensive_Tap4837 · 2025-06-24 23:31:26 UTC · score 31

It's a p1s .12 layer heigth .10 .10 on your fuzzy skin settings. Use good quality materials (big fan of polymaker pla pro) for basic stuff. My suggestion is to follow hoffmans word like he's JC, half suspect he's state sponsored he's so good. Watch his videos from start to finish starting with the old ones. When he breaks or has issues he documents the failures and comes up with solutions. He does change his mind at times with experiance. 

I'm using the bambu slicer for all of my modeling as well. I'm just an novice at this, I just know how to stand on shoulders. I have alot of room for improvement since I have 0 cad experiance and I'd rather be with my chickens than a computer. Anyone can design anything with this technology. 

Building off the last guy is why this can never be stopped. A good project.... like the FGC9, will be tinkered with and improved years after the passing of jstark. 

That said... cheat.. 

When you find a good print profile import another object than delete the origional. 

I'm fairly certain. I borrowed my settings off hoffmans sl15 file. I'm not a old head, and my machine realllllyyyy needs to be serviced. 

It's like a good old 1911 that's been through 3 conflicts or that m4 that's been in Iraqs fine dust for 10 years that you can cock with your little finger. When some things are not properly maintained they can get.....better. 

Atleast that's what I tell myself. Should probably rub some grease on the rails again.

u/kohTheRobot · 2024-08-29 14:31:19 UTC · score 5

Yes but before the other casting nerds dog pile you, it’s a lot harder than it sounds. Easier than most people lead you to believe, we’ve casted metal for a millennium or so now.

Metal melts the plastic FCU. So your cast would be off.

The easier ways to do it would be an “investment casting” process. You more or less take an accurate model with gates runners etc (all for liquid metal flow) and make a sand or plaster mold packed around it, something that holds its shape after heat. You then burn out your investment model in an oven and you’re left with a fairly accurate mold to pour your metal into.

Limitations: melting aluminum requires at least a blow torch, melting steel requires a very expensive kiln + worry about oxidization.

I’d highly recommend going down the rabbit hole of casting, not enough people here see it as a viable manufacturing method

u/DaeWalkerFM · 2025-04-30 03:46:18 UTC · score 1

It’s for my razor mx650

https://preview.redd.it/z5tfcz759wxe1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b861f9a50669adaa347eff6149fbf2aeccb987f2

u/Dwightback · 2021-03-13 02:31:54 UTC · score 1

Did you print the bolts 100% infill? Made a huge difference for me. The first ones I did 80% infill and they all cracked. I also switched filaments at the same time though so it could have been that. Printed both in PLA

u/SadChoppaHours · 2021-03-12 05:18:20 UTC · score 2

thank you. can I also ask, which of the options did you print? e.g. single/double rib, basic/upgraded, etc. thank you!

u/Elbarfo · 2022-09-18 13:36:29 UTC · score 7

Defcad is for fools.