Originally posted by u/CooooolBro at 2024-08-29T01:01:03Z
Has anyone annealed using this technique? Trying this for the first time on a Ruger LCP insert made from Polymaker PA612-CF.
I recently saw that Hoffman released his short paper basically comparing Polymaker PA612-CF to Bambu Labs PET-CF, but I didn’t see anything about annealing with oil vs dry, or the annealing process/time specifically.
Oddly, he didn’t anneal the PET-Cf filaments because he didn’t think it would increase strength. But I swear I remember him saying the PET-CF would need annealing to match at all with the PA-CF.
Maybe that’s not the case? But I didn’t see any data on it. I printed this in both PA612 and PET-CF, one upside down and one right-side up in both filaments. (Upside down looks nicest on the slide parts).
My main concern is warp while annealing. So I remembered years ago I saw an optician use a heated sand machine for bending eyeglass frames and realized heating sand would ensure the part heats up and cools down gradually, all while acting as support for the part.
This part is only about 10 grams, so I’m just annealing it this way for 3 hours. I’m really interested in seeing how this does versus oil annealing in the same manner, or even oil annealing with sand for support.
Anyone who has experience with this process and these materials, would love to hear about it.
Side note: I know someone is working on the “pocket pleaser” frame with insert for the LCP, but I recently grabbed a few LCP kits and an LCP II… I found I like the stock grip of the LCP I and so far CF nylon seems to work fine for the insert.
I would be interested in working with the pocket pleaser beta testers though, especially if they need assistance with an insert option.
Source: https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/groQjpCwI0F77aRYfFfIe9HnHqpQzXTzsOyAMdBHoKk.jpg
