mranderson17

joined 1 year ago
[–] [email protected] 1 points 21 hours ago

Yeah.... I'm glad I'm not the only one that doesn't like it that much. I would even go so far as to say that there really aren't any "good" rally games that I've played. There are some that do one or two things well, but none that really stand out and make me say "I really want to play that one".

AC's rally stuff is interesting because it looks great, has very good FFB (if you tune the surfacefx correctly), and it's very flexible, but the content is basically two cars and a handful of maps that are rather lackluster. RBR is the only thing that's really comparable since it's all mods too, it's similar in flexibility but has way more content and the gameplay is OK, but it looks it's age so it's a bit hard for me to get into it after playing something newer.

[–] [email protected] 22 points 1 week ago

This probably won't help with EA and the like adding kernel-level anti-cheat 6 months after release....

[–] [email protected] 2 points 2 weeks ago

works for me both on my archlinux machine and my steamdeck with steam and non-steam games. I've even played NFSU2 with it =] . I don't think it required any more configuration than just pairing for me, no special drivers or tools. Maybe it needs a firmware update (I don't know if that's a thing, just a thought)?

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 weeks ago

Ah, I see. I imagined your use of that sketch differently. Looks good!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 3 weeks ago

When I do what you did but select "Create Symmetry Constraints" I get a fully constrained result as soon as the Sketcher Symmetry tool is finished. No other action is required.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 weeks ago (2 children)

You didn't select "Create Symmetry Constraints". I'm not sure if it will solve the issue completely, but it will probably make some difference.

One thing I see that may come back to bite you later: You can create sketches that make multiple bodies when padded, but I'm not sure why you would want to with the example in this video. If the sketch is two identical bodies mirrored across an X/Y/Z plane use the part design mirror feature and offset the sketch's attachment not the geometry in the sketch. It works better for that and keeps your sketches simpler, and you get to use symmetry for one side of the two things you are making because the origin will be in the center of one of the objects.

Sketches where the origin of the sketch isn't the approximate center of a single closed wire are annoying later if you want to reference them in other features or sketches.

Are you making sunglasses? 😎

[–] [email protected] 5 points 3 weeks ago

lol, I just stuck with it I guess 🤣. Seems to work fine

[–] [email protected] 7 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (8 children)

Here's how it works for me: https://vimeo.com/1019673822

Sorry I forgot to click record cursor. But hopefully that's clear enough.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (10 children)

which also makes copies of the constraints which are completely independent from the original constraints on the left-hand side - delete the stupid new right-hand side constraints and slowly, painfully constrain the right-hand side copies to the original left-hand side elements

I feel like this is not how it works for me. It does copy the constraints and automatically create symmetry between any points across the selected center line, but if you're making a mirror why is that not what you want?

Also I'm unsure about the behavior in older versions of freecad, the constraint behavior of this feature is new in 1.0

[–] [email protected] 7 points 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) (12 children)

You want Sketcher Symmetry but it's not quite what other CAD packages have. Select what you want to mirror, which is probably the entire sketch using the drag selection box, select the Sketcher Symmetry tool, then press J to add constraints.

It's not perfect, I suspect because it can't read your mind as well as the big CAD packages about where you want coincident constraints for joining lines, but it's mostly OK.

EDIT: I can't tell if you are describing the Sketcher Symmetry tool in your 4th paragraph or not. You will sometimes get over constraints where the end points intersect but you can delete them with one click and make those points coincident instead. I suppose this could be time consuming if you have a really really complicated sketch with multiple intersecting points, but that probably wouldn't pad anyway.

[–] [email protected] 4 points 3 weeks ago

EA is wrong for EA SPORTS WRC

[–] [email protected] 4 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Nice! I have X4 but haven't played past the flight tutorial because I got input binding fatigue a little. I should go back and finish that up =].

Been playing a little Flight of Nova lately because I like the Newtonian physics and semi-manual orbital mechanics it offers. I think X4 can do that too if you disable flight assists I just never got to that point.

 

This is me trying out the new dirt surfacesfx adjustments and rally tires in Custom Shaders Patch. It feels surprisingly good! And looks amazing, as AC usually does. And yes I crashed...

 

I'm receiving periodic 500 server errors when viewing posts for about the last week. It's pretty infrequent but definitely still happening.

I've also noticed that viewing some images has been problematic, sometimes requiring a few tries to get them to appear. Likely the same issue there.

Anyone else noticed this?

 

Got the TM R383 Mod wheel all mounted and everything is working. I'm doing more driving than debugging which is a sign that I think it's near done.

The OpenFFBoard has shift register support so with no modification to the wheel other than a coily cable I was able to get all the buttons working. I designed some adapters to mount to an ebay QR (highly recommend this one called "For Racing Simulator Simagic Moza 70mm Steering Wheel Quick Release+Wheel Base" on ebay) which is rock solid. I was all ready to machine the adapter flanges out of metal but I put the prototypes on to check the fit and they were so rigid there's no point in taking the time to do it. It feels easily just as solid as my real car. Kindof amazing considering the threads are even printed into the PLA, no heatserts or anything.

Feel free to let me know if you want the FreeCAD models, I suspect at least the 70mm wheel side adapter would be compatible with other TM wheels too. I use the RT FreeCAD branch so they won't work in normal FreeCAD unfortunately.

It's running at about 14Nm right now, I don't have a thermister on the motor coils so I'm trying to be a bit conservative however I'm pretty sure 14Nm peak is way way more than I need personally. The motor and supporting hardware should technically support about 22 but I don't think I'll ever push it that hard. 14Nm is scary enough.

 

cross-posted from: https://infosec.pub/post/4625991

A quick test, without a wheel attached to the spindle, of the openffboard running on Linux in BeamNG.drive. It took a while to get here as I'm not very knowledgeable with motor drivers but it seems to work so far.

Next step will be to fabricate a bracket to mount it to my rig. Since this video I have mounted a wheel and done some driving. The feel is pretty good, the motor is only 6NM which in DD land is a little on the low side but it's incredibly smooth.

Hardware:

OpenFFBoard (purchased assembled)

ODrive S1

Baldor BSM90N-1150AFP (ebay auction for untested motor, was about 50USD shipped)

48v 10.5A power supply

 

A quick test, without a wheel attached to the spindle, of the openffboard running on Linux in BeamNG.drive. It took a while to get here as I'm not very knowledgeable with motor drivers but it seems to work so far.

Next step will be to fabricate a bracket to mount it to my rig. Since this video I have mounted a wheel and done some driving. The feel is pretty good, the motor is only 6NM which in DD land is a little on the low side but it's incredibly smooth.

Hardware:

OpenFFBoard (purchased assembled) Project Link Github Link

ODrive S1

Baldor BSM90N-1150AFP (ebay auction for untested motor, was about 50USD shipped)

48v 10.5A power supply

 

Not really much else to say other than to share my disappointment (but not surprise).

 

cross-posted from: https://infosec.pub/post/3508656 . I made some modifications since the last rig post, thought I'd cross post here too.

I don't have a lot of space where my desk is but wanted a combo space combat and racing rig that was fully rigid except for the seat.

The chair sits in a wheel trough with some 3d printed wheel chalks that fit the wheels exactly so it doesn't really move much at all when braking.

Everything is running on Linux using a lot of SDL and input device spoofing hacks to get it all recognized correctly in games. I mostly play DirtRally2.0, BeamNG, AMS2, and Overload. Trying to get into Elite Dangerous but it's not really my type of game. Maybe it will be some day though. Also play a little RBR but not all that much.

List of gear:

T300rs with a R383 Mod wheel - tmff2 driver. I designed a "quick" release ring so it's not a pain to take the wheel off for flight.

Heusinkveld Ultimate+ pedals - protopedal or xboxdrv depending on the game

TH8A shifter - heavily modified to fit in the small space I had and with a 3d printed short throw plate that I designed. It's not ideal, but works for occasional use.

Some ebay handbrake - I use xboxdrv for this sometimes if necessary but most games can find it. I also modified it to be mounted under the plate for a bit more space on top.

Gladiator NXT EVO Omni Throttle (Left and Right hand models) - These are a pain in most games. I use a winehid hack where I adjust the registry values HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE System CurrentControlSet Enum WINEBUS VID_231D&PID_{200,201} {Service, CompatibleIds} from xinput to winehid. This works but depends on the bus the device is currently connected to. Looking for a better SDL env var alternative but haven't got it working yet.

Acer Nitro 37.5" QHD+ 3840 x 1600 curved display

NextLevelRacing "Wheel Stand 2.0" - I made some steel parts for it on the mill to increase rigidity, 3d printed spacers for the adjustable arms to tighten them up a bit since the stock ones are a bit sloppy, and made some extra plates for mounting the sticks and other stuff out of 10mm aluminum plate.

VKB UCM-S drop mount brackets for the sticks. I modified these as well to fit under the aluminum plates. The left one is hinged so that it can be folded upwards to get in and out of the chair when the chair wheels are fixed in place.

annnd... yes I know the shifter and handbrake are reversed... I like it that way.

 

I don't have a lot of space where my desk is but wanted a combo space combat and racing rig that was fully rigid except for the seat.

The chair sits in a wheel trough with some 3d printed wheel chalks that fit the wheels exactly so it doesn't really move much at all when braking.

Everything is running on Linux using a lot of SDL and input device spoofing hacks to get it all recognized correctly in games. I mostly play DirtRally2.0, BeamNG, AMS2, and Overload. Trying to get into Elite Dangerous but it's not really my type of game. Maybe it will be some day though. Also play a little RBR but not all that much.

List of gear:

T300rs with a R383 Mod wheel - tmff2 driver. I designed a "quick" release ring so it's not a pain to take the wheel off for flight.

Heusinkveld Ultimate+ pedals - protopedal or xboxdrv depending on the game

TH8A shifter - heavily modified to fit in the small space I had and with a 3d printed short throw plate that I designed. It's not ideal, but works for occasional use.

Some ebay handbrake - I use xboxdrv for this sometimes if necessary but most games can find it. I also modified it to be mounted under the plate for a bit more space on top.

Gladiator NXT EVO Omni Throttle (Left and Right hand models) - These are a pain in most games. I use a winehid hack where I adjust the registry values HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE System CurrentControlSet Enum WINEBUS VID_231D&PID_{200,201} {Service, CompatibleIds} from xinput to winehid. This works but depends on the bus the device is currently connected to. Looking for a better SDL env var alternative but haven't got it working yet.

Acer Nitro 37.5" QHD+ 3840 x 1600 curved display

NextLevelRacing "Wheel Stand 2.0" - I made some steel parts for it on the mill to increase rigidity, 3d printed spacers for the adjustable arms to tighten them up a bit since the stock ones are a bit sloppy, and made some extra plates for mounting the sticks and other stuff out of 10mm aluminum plate.

VKB UCM-S drop mount brackets for the sticks. I modified these as well to fit under the aluminum plates. The left one is hinged so that it can be folded upwards to get in and out of the chair when the chair wheels are fixed in place.

annnd... yes I know the shifter and handbrake are reversed... I like it that way.

 

Had a nice relaxing series of crashes today.

 

I have a keyboard with gateron blue clear top (black base, clear top) switches. It has a few switches that no longer work consistently so I'm looking for some replacements. The keyboard is backlit so I'd like to keep the clear top. Unfortunately I can't seem to find a source for this type of switch I feel comfortable with that ships to the US. There's ebay but it's so hard to tell what you're going to get. Does anyone know of a good site that ships to the US that stocks gateron clear top switches?

1upkeyboards is the only place I've seen them even listed, but they are out of stock. https://1upkeyboards.com/shop/switches/set-packs/switches-16-pack/

I have compared cherry blues, which also come in clear top, to the gaterons but I like the gateron feel better even though they seem not to last as long apparently.

 

About 8 years ago I lubed a Topre clone board (CM Novatouch) with "Finish Line Extreme Fluoro PFPAE" which was recommended at the time. Now years later it has pretty much all turned to dust and isn't really lubricating anything anymore. I suspect this happened maybe 5 years from when I applied it because it started feeling not so great and I put it away to use another board.

Now I've finally gotten the time to work on it and I've cleaned off all the old crusty stuff and I'm going to replace it with a combination of 205g0 for the slider points of contact and 3204 for the stabilizer bars. (EDIT: might just try the 3204 on everything or find some actual grease for the bars, not sure yet)

I'm wondering if anyone has any long term experience with either of these and if I might be able to expect a slightly longer life from them than what I had previously?

 

As the title says, @[email protected] do you have any backup and how can we support you as the admin of our instance?

Burnout on spare-time projects can be very real, especially when they suddenly grow or become more difficult to manage. We all appreciate what you are doing here. So even if there's nothing we can do directly, I'd just like to say thank you.

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