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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/photography@lemmy.world

I want to get a camera that I can use mostly for nature pics and graffiti pics out the window of a moving train, and maybe a butt or two (consensually ofc). Yes I know I'm weird. That said I guess I'll need a "fast" one for the train, if that is the correct terminology (I think for shutter speed, yes?) The only other requirement is I will not download programs or apps beyond FOSS, preferably something I can just take the SD card out of and plug it into my laptop (linux anyway, most programs don't like me).

I don't see myself making this my living (and if I do then I can always upgrade) just as a hobby and maybe some side hustle if the opportunity knocks, so I don't need the best camera, but I would rather buy nice not twice (unless I leave "hobbyist" and move to "professional"). That said I was thinking maybe a DSLR would be enough for me (if not, I could be persuaded to mirrorless, just trying to keep costs down)? I've heard good things about the Canon Rebel, idk. I'm not really trying to go over $1k (and even cheaper than that would be even better) especially if I have to then buy a lens or two.

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated, I have no idea what I'm doing lol.

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[-] eksb@programming.dev 10 points 1 week ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

I asked a similar question and I was recommended a FujiFilm X-T3, X-T4, or X-T5. Several people told me that the Fujifilm mirrorless cameras are good for learning to do things properly, with well-placed physical dials, and they still work pretty well when you just want full-auto mode. I got a used XT-4 with an 18-55 lens for well under $1000. As a beginner, I am happy with it.

I then bought a Tamron 18-300 lens, which is about $700. Professionals may scoff at it, but as a hobbyist, it is great - it is fast enough over such a wide zoom range that I can carry just one lens, and whip it out and take pictures fast.

A wise man once told me that the best camera for you is the one you will take the most photos with.

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Are the "x-t3" and the "x-t30 II" the same thing? I think I'm actually looking at one of those right now, a hair over budget but bundled with stuff so that's fine, basically a beginner package. The II is the last gen but the III has "ai face detect" or some garbage so I'm out.

The used market in my area seems to be "used at new prices" so far, but I won't be able to see FB until I wrangle an FB user tomorrow, so there's still hope. Otherwise that x-t30 II new is doable.

Edit: Wait I done figured it out, seems they're not. I could get the x-t3 new w/lens for $100 more than the x-t30 w/lens+stuff, so still possible though. The other "stuff" is inconsequential really, but I'd like a lens combo (and assume they at least have one battery by default lol) though.

Edit 2: Maybe used x-t4+lens and batts, will update.

[-] eksb@programming.dev 2 points 6 days ago

IIRC, my local camera store (who did not have any xt3, xt4, or xt30 in stock and knew I was looking at used) recommended the xt3 over the xt30 unless you prioritize the small size and will mostly just have something like an 18-55 lens on it. Once you are using a zoom lens, the small size of the xt30 becomes mostly meaningless.

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 6 days ago

Looking into it, I definitely want the t3 or t4 because the t30 doesn't have weatherproofing, which seems like a massive oversight for something that expensive.

[-] Durandal@lemmy.today 8 points 1 week ago

First and foremost... I would check into buying used from a reputable reseller that guarantees their equipment:

https://usedphotopro.com/

https://www.mpb.com/

https://www.keh.com/

IDK where you're located geographically, but a couple of those do ship to different countries so they should have you covered.

As for your specific camera needs, it's going to depend on the setting you're taking these pics in. It's less about subject (nature, graffiti, consenting butts) and more about speed and and light levels.

You're right that taking a frozen moment from a moving vehicle you need a fast shutter (this is different from a "fast lens"). Most modern digital cameras should have no problem getting a fast enough shutter speed... something that tops out at 1/2000 or 1/4000 should be plenty. The farther away it is, the easier it will be.

Nature pictures like landscapes are generally pretty easy to shoot. They don't move around much so you have plenty of time to set things up and find your scene. Nature pictures like animals... that's a whole other story and takes specialized stuff usually, depending on the animal. The good thing is that with interchangeable lens cameras, some of that is just the lens and can be upgraded when you figure out which niche you're trying to fill.

When you get into these types of cameras, you are really buying into a lens system... that is a good place to start thinking about it. Will you be able to get lenses you like for a price you can deal with. Often that means not only how are the first party lenses, but are there good third party lenses. So take canon for example... great first party pro lenses, crap entry level lenses. Their DLSR has access to stuff like Sigma which are really good... their mirrorless they more or less banned 3rd party so you're sol. So a little research on that is a good idea.

So my suggestion, personally, is to look at micro-fourthirds flagship cameras from the last decade and flagship DLSR as well. You will get a lot more bang for your buck and quality from an older flagship pro camera for the same price as an entry level new camera. There is a hidden price advantage for M43 cameras as well... the lenses are cheaper, lighter, and since it's an open format there's lots of choices from multiple manufacturers. If you get an Olympus camera, the lenses work on Lumix. If you get a TTartisans M43 lens it works on both. So you have a lot of choices for very inexpensive. Basically all M43 cameras have In Body Image Stabilization as well... which is really nice for getting rid of camera shake while taking handheld shots in lower light.

As for software. There is plenty of stuff that will work well on linux... and lots of them are likely in your repos already or have flatpak or appimage. I really like RawTherapee for processing RAW images. https://www.rawtherapee.com/ There are some good scripts to get Affinity Photo working on linux these days as well such as https://github.com/ryzendew/Linux-Affinity-Installer ... just read thru the info thoroughly, but it's basically run shell script and click buttons on the GUI.

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 6 days ago

Thanks for the heads up on those sites, if the local deal I'm working on falls through I'll be picking one up from the 2nd or 3rd ones you listed, but then I'll need to get a lens.

[-] Durandal@lemmy.today 2 points 6 days ago

Those sites are where I get most of my lenses, FWIW. I really like that they check them and rank them on condition then give a several month warranty on most grades. UPP and MPB show actual lens you’re getting on each listing as well. KEH doesn’t but their descriptions and grades are usually accurate. UPP is my favorite for price and quality but have a much more limited rotating stock of gear. I’ve bought multiple things from all three though.

[-] hanke@feddit.nu 5 points 1 week ago

On the train you will want a fast lens, meaning low f-numbers (takes in more light) so you can use quick shutter speeds without it being to dark.

You might also want a camera body and/or lens with image stabilisation. Not a must, but good if shooting on the move or using long shutter speeds handheld.

Sorry for ignoring your buy nice, not twice. But you don't know what you want until you get your hands dirty. So get something less expensive and learn. Then buy someting nice.

I recommend either a cheapo used Nikon APS-C DSLR (Nikon D3200 for example) and some lens to go with it. Could cost ypu about 150€ to 300€ to get started depending on how lucky you are.

Or get a used mirrorless with a lens for a fancier start. A bit more expensive, but probably better than an old DSLR. More likely to have image stabilisation as well.

Then if you like to shoot, upgrade.

Compare different cameras on https://cameradecision.com/

For image processing I revommend Darktable. FOSS and Native to Linux. I've only used that and it works well for me.

PS.

I don't know what hardware to get for the butt pics. Maybe a wide angle lens if it's a big one and you like to get up close.

Not my area of expertise though. Someone else is welcome to chime in.

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago)

Thanks for the info! I've been looking at a few of the mentioned options and a few others (and again don't know anything beyond "oh stabilization that sounds nice" lol, I have noticed some have it in my limited searching), I do think that would be a boon and am willing to go mirrorless if that's what it takes, also I'm told mirrorless works better in low light, and is more compact, two points for mirrorless especially for the train and under bridges (for the graffiti), and in the woods under the trees, lot's of low light areas there, and also probably good for butts too lol.

The used market so far in my area seems to be "buy this used camera for a $30 discount" lol, might as well buy new so far, but I don't have a facebook and won't be able to wrangle one until tomorrow so there's still hope, but I might have to buy new. That said I've found a decent (I think) deal on a new Fujifilm x-t30 II (last gen, but pre-AI bullshit in the III) bundled with a 15-45 lens and a bunch of (probably cheap/crap, but whatever) stuff, and two batts, and I like the portable form factor. We actually have the x-t30 (I think the II actually) at work for taking product photos and it seems good idk, I do like the handfeel of it at least and the pics sure do look like product pics lol. I don't know how to see this f number, but if it's fps it looks like I can select down to 3 fps? It'd be a bit above budget but it also comes with extra things, basically a starter kit, and it would probably be my "never need another" camera, so I'd consider that for sure (I could always sell it later too I guess). Budget is flexible, I can just save longer if I need to! What do you think about that camera for a beginner/mid hobby camera? Also looking at an x-t3 minus "stuff" but with a lense for $100 more which is doable, again if I have to buy new. If that is sufficiently better (and your website there indicates 69% of raters think it is, so not nothing, but the website itself prefers the x-t30 for a few reasons) I could make that happen too.

(Edit: have an x-t4+lens used in the works, wish me luck!)

Thanks for the PS too lol, the butt pics would be not as much of a focus so I can figure that out down the line, though tbf the most likely way to make side hustle money might be working for an OF model haha. Not my plan but hey, if that is the opportunity that knocks, who would I be to judge? And thanks for letting me know about Darktable, that sounds perfect!

[-] hanke@feddit.nu 2 points 1 week ago

Some notes;

The f-number is not fps. The f-number is a property of the lens you are using that defines the ratio of light it collects.

  • Lower f-numbers collect more light
  • More light collected helps shooting at high fps (see more below)
  • A lower f-number will also create more bokeh (creamy out of focus background)

Actual explaination of f-numbers

So there are many pros of having a low f-number lens, but don't go crazy. There are f/1.4 and even lower lenses. I have a f/2.8 and that is more than enough. But it all depends on your use case I guess.

FPS:

  • The "fastest" fps you can shoot is limited by your camera body
  • Your lens most often just limits high fps shooting if it is too dark where you are shooting and your lens is not collecting enough light (the f-number is to high)

I don't know much about the fuji cameras you are mentioning, but if you are familiar with them and like them, then go for it! I find it to be very personal what people go for.

Someone else in the comments mentioned micro 4/3. Those cameras are very much more "pocketable" and have gotten way better (or so I've understood it). But the size of the micro 4/3 sensors is a bit smaller than both full frame and APS-C sensors which will mean a bit worse performance in low light conditions. It is up to you to decide if it is worth the trade-off.

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 1 week ago

Ooooohhh the f number is in the lens lol, that's why I couldn't find it in any camera's specs! Haha ok thanks!

Looks like the one I'm possibly getting used has an 18-55 "f2.8-4" "kit" lens, I'm guessing that means this lens has variable fs, but the low end is 2.8?

[-] hanke@feddit.nu 3 points 1 week ago

Yup!

So a kit lens is just a lens that is usually sold as a kit with the camera body. These are most often pretty cheap and not of the best quality. Think of it as getting a new TV. It has built in speakers. They work just fine, but if you want good sound you're probably getting a proper sound system.

The variability of the aperture is common in zoom lenses. So this lens can be as most open f/2.8 when you are at the widest zoom, 18mm in this case. If you zoom all the way in, the most open aperture you will be able to set will be f/4.

You can always stop down your aperture further if you like. So if you're at 18mm you can still set it to f/4. But you can't set it to f/2.8 if you are all zoomed in at 55mm.

Worth mentioning is also that there are lenses where the focal length does not affect the minimum aperture. I have a 20-70mm lens that can go down to f/2.8 regardless of what focal length I am working with. But this is often a premium feature. Variable minimum aperture like the one you've found is more common.

Also worth mentioning is that there are "prime lenses" that have no zoom ability at all. They are fixed at a focal length. These primes are often of better quality than zoom lenses since they don't have to account for optical quality in the whole zoom range, but you will be limited by not being able to zoom at all. These often have lower minimum apertures as well. It is not uncommon with primes at f/1.4 or f/1.8. These are great to use if the focal length is right for the purpose, but otherwise not very versatile.

I'd say go with a zoom of some sort unless you are sure you only need a specific focal length.

Your kit lens is a good start, but to get the most out of your camera, consider getting a better lens.

But hey, I don't know anything about fuji kit lenses, they might be good. Give it a try and see!

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 6 days ago

Awesome thanks! I figured that was the case with the kits, but I'll take one to get me started otherwise I'll have a camera without lenses for a while until I can save for one haha. I assume I'll need better lenses in the future for sure, at least I'll need a wide angle and a really zoomy one, prob want whichever is for "macro" too because I remember having fun with that mode on my old Droid X when those came out lol.

[-] Colman@mastodon.ie 3 points 1 week ago

@ArcaneSlime see what you can get your hands on locally second hand/used. See what you like the feel of.

[-] Colman@mastodon.ie 3 points 1 week ago

@ArcaneSlime and while I don’t like zooms much, if you’re planning to shoot from a train — where your control of the framing is limited — I’d be looking for a wide to short telephoto zoom if I could. 24-120mm equivalent range would cover the sort of stuff you’re talking about.

[-] voodoocode@feddit.org 1 points 1 week ago

You should Look into Micro Four Thirds, theyre very affordable and great https://youtu.be/oVqE6Js__VU

Otherwise just get an old DSLR from like 10 years ago via mpb

[-] BuboScandiacus@mander.xyz 1 points 1 week ago

For RAW editing you can use darktable

But good luck finding a camera with open software, maybe a PiCamera ?

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

Well to some degree beggars can't be choosers, but I can just not give the camera my wifi or take it offline if I did temporarily, so that's fine though it would be nice to have FOSS. The part I'm really concerned about is I don't want to have to use some "fujifilm connect app/program" to access my photos or settings or something, I want just "pop out SD, put in PC" and/or usb connection. Everythings got a damn app these days and I'm sick of it lol.

Darktable sounds perfect!

[-] BuboScandiacus@mander.xyz 1 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

Oh, every big camera brand uses SD cards (apart from their pro gear which often uses CFExpress cards). Apps are often half-baked second class citizens, which will refuse to work half of the time so you won’t loose much functionality. Connecting your camera to your wi-fi or if you really don’t want to, a mobile hotspot is required for certain software updates you can go without from a technical standpoint, but they are mostly worth-it.

[-] ArcaneSlime@lemmy.dbzer0.com 2 points 6 days ago

Well that's good to know!

I can do wifi for updates and then remove the password from the camera so that's fine, most likely I'll just do it at the library. I just don't need it always connected or anything like that, like y'know fridges and propane grills are for some inexplicable reason.

this post was submitted on 03 Mar 2026
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