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submitted 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago) by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

Ive had a number of these devices. And the number 1 thing that fails is the battery. It might also be where I am at. We have 110+F days that cause spicy pillows or failures after a year or so.

So I was wondering, is there a way to make a "daytime only" node that turns on where theres enough sunlight to power the thing, and then turns off where there is not enough sunlight?

I figure I could just get a 5V solar panel and hook it up directly to one of the nodes. I'm just nervous that it will under voltage the device over the long run if that makes sense.

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[-] [email protected] 1 points 2 hours ago

I've heard that RAK boards will get stuck in a deep sleep mode or something if the voltage goes below a certain threshold, and need to be power cycled or reset. Haven't tested myself, just something my local mesh group has said they experienced.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

So, I design battery packs for a living. 115F ambient operating conditions are doable assuming you dont add solar loading. Can you paint your enclosures white? Or cover them? A high quality 18650 will operate fine up to 50C especially with a very light load and a low charging current. Do you have more details on your setup, chipset and average load?

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

I developed a simple circuit using 1 Farad supercapacitors and a power management IC, no battery. It buffers a 5v solar panel and provides smoother power when the aun is up. It even trickle charges the supercapacitors from just a bright security light outside the window at night.

The effect is that the capacitors store the trickle until they are full, then deliver a burst of steady full power, enough to power a node for 30 minites when busy. So with this circuit, a node cleverly placed near an outdoor light would operate continuously in daylight and intermittently at night with some artificial light nearby.

[-] [email protected] 4 points 1 day ago

A bit of a buffer battery is good.

I've got the opposite problem of lithium batteries freezing. But three NiMH batteries in series is close enoigh to drop-in. They're ok with cold, maybe also heat?

Or, capacitor to even out the load. Or a super-capacitor if you want to last all night long. They'll consume everything to charge up from empty, though.

[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago

I would say a small bank of supercapacitors and like an inexpensive 10 watt USB-C solar panel from ali Express would be a pretty good way to accomplish this. Supercapacitors, if they're protected from rain and UV, will last a very long time and from what I understand are not vastly affected by environmental temperatures.

[-] [email protected] 3 points 1 day ago* (last edited 1 day ago)

I ran a PirateBox on a Pi 0w by connecting it to a pass-through USB battery pack, then the battery pack into one of those tri-fold Anker (or was it Aukey? Been a few years) solar panels. I hung this up in a window that got good sun most of the day (being in San Diego was of benefit here) and that thing would run off battery after sundown and the battery would charge once the sun was back. I wasn’t measuring any voltage or other metrics, but it worked fine.

Have often thought about taking one of the Heltecs in my drawer and firing up a node that way. I still have that same battery in another drawer. I have many drawers.

Edit: fkn typos.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

Yeah, it's completely possible to just buy one of those solar panels with a USB connector and plug it right in. I've done it before. But you're going to experience multiple daily outages if there's so much as a cloud going over it (unless you install a giant panel), not to mention entire days where it's cloudy.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

Thanks, i may give it a try.

Im in one of the sunniest places on the planet. Almost no rain or clouds....ever. So it may work out :)

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Would be a nice way of communicating :). You can communicate with everyone around, but when come evening it's automatically quiet time.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 day ago

Im thinking its just more reliable and one less part to fail in a years time. And less chance of a spark in high fire areas. I dont necessarily need to communicate 24x7 if its just for fun. And it makes the local mesh just a bit bigger in the day.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Put a daylight sensor in line with one of the leads with a cutoff some percentage higher than the cutoff of the device.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Out of curiosity, what about a supercapacitor? Since it doesn't store energy chemically, it might work better and not become a spicy pillow.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

Was just watching a video about it yesterday. I don't think this is the link I watched but there are dozens of builds if you search YouTube.

https://youtu.be/d2vQ87Th8DI

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

LiFePo4 are way more stable than Lithium Polymers, even LiPos, which are used in every EV, sitting in the hot sun for days on end...

LiPos are obviously a stupid choice. They should only really be used when you need extreme discharge rates, or really is sizing.

[-] [email protected] 1 points 1 day ago

“daytime only” node

There's lots of ways to store energy besides batteries...

Depending on how much you'd want it at night, or just how bored you are, you could do something with a simple motor/generator combo, have it pump water up to a mini tower, and then when solar kicks off it flows back down turning the pump into a generator and powering the solar till the tanks empty.

Almost definitely not worth the hassle, but would be a pretty fun project to fuck around with.

I’m just nervous that it will under voltage the device over the long run if that makes sense.

There definitely should be some kind of capacitor. Likely built into your panel, but you want to make sure there's one somewhere

this post was submitted on 19 Sep 2025
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