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submitted 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago) by ashenone@lemmy.ml to c/bicycles@lemmy.ca

I recently landed in a small town that gets a decent amount of snow in the winter, and commute on my bike with thin road tires. I'm thinking I want a fat bike with some nice thick tires to deal with the snow days, but local used options are limited and new bikes are fairly pricey. I have a bit more options in the used departed if I can go with more standard mountain bike. Are regular mountain bikes a viable option for commuting in snow? We had a very weak winter this last year with 7 inches all season but from some locals I've spoken too they said it can get up to 6 or 7 inches a month and only main thoroughfars are plowed, if amount of snow makes a difference in what sort of bike would be most suitable.

Appreciate any advice from those of you who ride in the snow regularly.

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[-] JayleneSlide@lemmy.world 7 points 6 days ago

There are a lot of factors that will affect the details of your selection:

  • snow type, high desert fluffy, northeast boilerplate and snot, PNW icy wet slop...
  • daily thaw/freeze cycle
  • salt and/or sand used on the roads
  • how much car snot will you be hitting on your commute routes

Without details of your snow conditions, all of the details of any commentor's suggestion will be guessing.

I can offer these generalities; IMO, fat bikes confer no advantage when it comes to snow. They sound great on paper, but if you're floating on top of snow, that's a recipe for garbage traction. For the broadest range of winter road conditions, nothing beats a fixie. I could write you a novella why, but I'll spare you.

Notice that I'm riding road slicks in that pic (25 mile commute one-way).

The next best choice in my experience is a rigid 26” disc brake mountain bike. With a 26" winter wheelset, you can have snow tires, studded ice & snow tires, plus tires for summer trails. Most 26" disc mountain bikes can also fit 700c with clearance for as much as 32C. With fenders! Get yourself a decent 700c wheelset, and you have some summer zippyness. That's a lot of use case in one bike. Tons of choices for this style, but my all time fave was the Trek SU200, same frame as the 4300.

I can't find my pictures of this in winter configuration. But here it is in ultralight touring mode. Winter tires were Nokian on the stock 26" wheels.

[-] ashenone@lemmy.ml 2 points 6 days ago* (last edited 6 days ago)

Ok awesome lots of good info here. I'm leaning towards the rigid mountain bike suggestion, but wouldn't mind hearing you out on your fixie novella :)

Some more area info:

High desert fluffy snow, daily thaw freeze cycle is not uncommon, roads get hit with something thats neither salt nor sand and I cannot for the life of me remember what it is ill try to find out. Car traffic on my route is minimal but that's because I avoid the main roads, so my ride will be through mostly unplowed snow

[-] JayleneSlide@lemmy.world 4 points 5 days ago

My experience with high desert daily thaw-freeze cycles is that it tends to produce hard ice "sculptures" in the bike lanes. If you get a hard ice base, studded tires are just about the only thing that will keep you upright. If you get crusty ice, studded tires are mostly optional. If the ice sculpture is particularly gnar, consider full suspension. I went full suspension with studded tires. It was overkill except for those ~5 days per year I absolutely needed to get to work, and the ice in the bike lanes was bad enough to be unwalkable.

If you get hardpack snow, aggressive tread blocks might be enough. I've played around with smoother center tread with aggressive cornering blocks, Nokian Mount&Ground/Hakkapeliita tires, narrow slicks, hardpan tread patterns... it's all a matter of matching the tire to the surface. No single solution will cover all possibilities, and it's critical to match your tires to your most frequently encountered condition. Be mentally prepared for some trial and error.

IMO, a narrower tire is better than wide, within reason. Narrow tires tend to push through snow and crust.

As to why fixies are superlative foul weather bikes:

  • drivetrain components wear together: run it until the everything is worn to a nub (if you aren't into maintenance); replace everything together maybe every 7 years; clean and lube the chain when it gets noisy
  • way fewer fragile moving parts
  • dead simple drivetrain that performs perfectly even when neglected, always works regardless of sand, ice, snow, salt, foul language, or bad hair days
  • gravel gets into the drivetrain with the snow and ice? fixie DGAF, unlike belt drive and cassettes
  • on rim brakes, less road grit abuse of your braking surfaces because can stop with the rear wheel
  • fixies are generally a much lower cost bike to start and you can have yourself a winter beater that will take all the abuse and keep going; tons of choices on the used market
  • cheap chains, chainring, and cogs
  • changing gear ratio is cheap
  • direct connection to the rear wheel acts like traction control: easy to start and stop when slippery; when your front brake becomes useless because of low traction, you can still control speed through the pedals; inertia in the drivetrain carries your stroke through TDC/BDC, making it easier to maintain a smooth stroke in slippery conditions (helps keep you moving and upright); easy to feel when the rear wheel is losing traction, if your rims get iced over (and they will), you still have some braking capability
  • you'll feel like a kid again doing massive skids down huge snowy hills
  • easy trackstanding at stops: no unclipping/clipping back in (less chance to clog up the pedal and cleat), no putting your foot down into car snot, no putting your foot down in an ice patch and slipping
  • the time and money you save on maintenance adds up quickly; get yourself a couple sets of wheels and keep them ready for various conditions; use the same rims for rim-brake bikes to keep your sanity intact
  • disc brake fixies are a bit more rare, e.g. Salsa Stormchaser 1x with a White Industries ENO hub; disc brakes expand your capabilities, ease wheel swaps when using different rims, and improve all-conditions braking
  • ^that said, I only ever owned a rim brake fixie and never missed my discs even in the gnarliest snow and ice; unlike all my other geared bikes, I've never fallen when winter riding my fixie; actually, I've never fallen on my fixie, period, and I credit that fixed connection to what the rear wheel is doing
  • climbing hills is like being on an escalator: because the inertia of the drivetrain carries the pedals over TDC, a fixie just rips up hills; on a 25 mile one-way work commute, my top speed was down 3.5 MPH, but overall average speed was up ~1.8 MPH, with 1400 feet of climb each way

I resisted fixies for a long time despite hearing all the benefits. The story of that fixie pictured in my previous post is here: https://lemmy.world/post/27619326/16157725. VT, OR, UT, WA, MA, and CO winters have never given me any troubles on my fixie with the correct tires for the conditions.

[-] ashenone@lemmy.ml 2 points 5 days ago

Thank you so much for taking the time to write all this up. I lived at the beach most of my life so the only weather I've experienced on a bike is some mild rain, and you've really given me a ton to think about. I never considered the benefits of being directly attached to the movement of the rear wheel in winter but what you say makes a lot of sense.

this post was submitted on 20 Jun 2026
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