3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
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2x on the recommendation. I've been slowly modding mine for about two years now. I printed the filter and magnetic panels right out of the gate.
Things I wish I did sooner:
Other than wiring breaks, and me goobering my hod end while goofing with it, it's been dead reliable. The printer has 906 hours on it with the longest print clicking in at 25.5 hours.
As someone who is currently building an LDO Voron (Voron 2.4 LDO Rev. D) most of those things are already included (like the Z-end-stop, the NiteHawk and panels)
Unless something has changed, it looks like the LDO kits still come with acrylic panels? ACM panels are an aluminum, plastic, aluminum sandwich. You cant see through them. I also didn't see the sex bolt or door.
Enjoy the build! The LDO kits are a solid base to start from.
Thanks, yeah following the voron guide was straight forward but the LDO documentation was a bit getting used to. Some things were poorly explained while others were not mentioned at all (like the LED light assembly) but by far better than having to source everything on my own.
I have 5mm acrylic panels on my V2.4 250 and I get 65°C no problem
Very nice!
Mine is a 350, so yay lots of panel surface area :(
Where do you have your chamber thermistor mounted? Mine is mounted to the top of my stealthburner.
I have one I the stealthburner, one poking out of the z-chain and one in the top extrusion under the cover ("frame" thermistor). Then there's the one in the cartographer, but that's only for its own compensation, pretty useless as an indicator.
Do they show reasonably consistent temperatures? I've often wondered if I should have my thermistor at a fixed z height.
absolutely consistent, the stealthburner probe is usually at least 5°C higher than the z-chain one, but I think it's a viable option, after all when you start the print, your toolhead should be low, and if the temperature is ok at that height, it should be even hotter up top
Thank you for the information! I've been wondering if I should put the print head in a consistent location while waiting for the printer to heat soak. Sounds like it won't matter a ton.
Well, I have two macros for heatsoak, the one I use 90% of the time sets the tool head low at the center of the plate and turns on the part cooling fans to help heat the chamber up faster
Build a klicky and ditch the z-endstop if it's a 2.4
I installed Cartographer and it's nice, but not super reliable so far.
It is a 2.4 and I do have a klicky. I run a Z Caliberation macro that makes it a lot less fiddily to deal with getting offset just so. I could see using klicky to be the z end stop, but I'm done tweaking things for the time being. Maybe in the next go.