[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago

The most popular way (and might also be the best) is to use z2m instead of deconz

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Cooling duct are used to precisely cool down plastic right after it was lay down without cooling down build plate (to avoid warping issue), this enable you to print bigger overhang without the need of support which end up in greater details.

Unless you have knowledge to create CFD trace, I would avoid it, they were/are tons of poor designs like ring duct which are very ineffective/unprecise. You don't need really high pressure but blower fan are better than radial fan for almost all designs is why you see them the most (they are also more than pressure which are to take into account but don't recall).

As of reducing print bed, it doesn't, But if you wish to full the plate with parts and use the "print one object at a time" setting, it will reduce the number of object you can put on a plate, otherwise it will knock down parts.

As an exemple, my first printer which was the OG ender 3 with petsfang duct get better overhangs than my bambulab A1 with stock duct.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8qnCQ7YZhVA

[-] [email protected] 2 points 8 months ago

Ça rend bien, merci

[-] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago* (last edited 9 months ago)

Can you explain why you don't use wireguard for jellyfish/lmmich?

(Network things are something I never get to fully understand)

[-] [email protected] 2 points 9 months ago

Thanks, will check details

[-] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago

Home assistant has a voice assistant but it isn't a voice assistant. Also, you are correct it is made to control a smart home (at the moment) that also include music threw external provider (or local files) but you can't search the internet threw it. You can either install it locally or pay for home assistant subscription which include voice assistant threw cloud.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 10 months ago* (last edited 10 months ago)

I'm not 100% sure but this might also depend which OS you are running on your pi. Did change from SD card to SSD few years back for my home assistant setup (now running with a mini pc) at the time I went for a geekpi adapter (can't recall exact model).

Try a quick ducduck search "sata adapter #yourOS#" and see if a list come up. Here is one for HA (but surely more models are compatible than the ones listed here) https://community.home-assistant.io/t/working-usb-enclosures-and-adapters-with-hassos/212763

Edit: as for SSD, I went for Samsung EVO model

Sidenote: all SSD will be more reliable than a sd card because they are less sensitive to rewrite counts

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

So pc is consuming 13W, this is with one nvme + one SSD, pic at 30w for a few seconds at boot.

[-] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

My bad, misread as I understood that you spend last decade fixing each part. As I said ender 3 from something around 2018-2019 were very great for the price but maybe quality has decreased since. Might be better choice today

[-] [email protected] 2 points 2 years ago

Nice, looks really interesting but can we build it ourselves? I can't find documentation nor printing files on the website and github

[-] [email protected] 2 points 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago)

You need something like a raspberry or a small computer to run home assistant 24/7 and you also need a zigbee coordinator (to be able to use your ZigBee devices) like sonoff CC2652P or conbee 3 (others are available). Install home assistant, and learn how to manage/customise as you wish.

Home assistant is great but it's not a plug and play solution (that being said, it has already been much simplified over the years and it's not that hard to get started). Settings basics stuff isn't complicated but you will have a learning curve to be able to do more complicated stuff (depending of knowledge you already have)

https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/

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paf

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