I like this, because I'm on a slow line here in Greece, and pretty much every time there's an update, the linux-firmware package is 600 MB, which is massive to download.

Ok, so, here it is: If you just want to cut stuff, without much fanfare, then these four are your best bet:

1. LosslessCut: https://github.com/mifi/lossless-cut possibly what you're looking for for most things, download the .appimage for x86
2. Shutter Encoder It just cuts and exports. https://www.shutterencoder.com/
3. Video Trimmer, get it on flathub. This one is newer.
4. https://avidemux.sourceforge.net/ (the old guard)

If you want to do a tiny bit more stuff, like subtitles and blurring, you MUST use a full video editor, like Shotcut and Kdenlive. These features aren't simple to implement so they're part of a full editing experience.

As both a trekie and a leftie, I must say that the conservatives who complain about modern Trek are not 100% wrong. Yes, Trek was always about social justice, but the episodes were about exploring why something was right or ethical. The new Trek takes this for granted, while half the population is not in agreement, or in a state of confusion. Instead of showing WHY something is good and just and explore it within an episode, they just present it as fact, and then they go off to some random adventure. This rubs off badly half the population. Yes, you can go all out and say that it's the conservatives' fault, and it is, but the reality is, the delivery HAS changed. New trek is not the same as old trek.

The Orville was a much more old trek-style show, and people universally loved it more than the new trek, despite being progressive.

You essentially have 3 options with open source audio apps (there are some good closed source options too, like the great Reaper, Tracktion Waveform, and BitWig Studio, but I will focus on foss solutions here):

• Ardour. This is the premier foss app. In fact, a fork of it is closed source used by a big audio manufacturer. So it's the best tested foss audio software out there. It can do both midi and recording sessions, but it's best for recording stuff. However, the new version, expected by end of this year, will have major midi updates that probably will put it on top of the king of midi in foss:

• LMMS. Best for Midi. If you're doing electronic music through and through, this works great. The only downside it has it does not support vst3 plugins (soon enough, this can become an issue, even if you say that you don't care about plugins). You can still get vst3 support by loading them via the Clara plugin (basically, it acts as a plugin for other plugins), but that can be unstable. Make sure you download the latest daily appimage, because the stable version is too old.

• QTractor. This one is an odd one out. It's a bit hard to get it going (it requires external synths and some patchwork to connect audio devices), but it is very powerful and I'd say, a more sane UI when editing. It comes with no plugins at all, but it supports all plugin standards for linux. Basically, this one requires more setup, but once you set it up, it gets going easier.

Alternatively, if you're actually interested only in rec. audio editing (basically cutting, pasting etc), simple stuff, there's Audacity.

If you're using Ubuntu or Linux Mint, Zorin, PopOS, install the ubuntustudio package for pipewire (can't remember how it's called you need to search for it). It sets up pipewire audio correctly, so more plugins/apps work out of the box (without it, for example, Bitwig studio doesn't even make a peep...).

Yes, it is, for two reasons:

1. Affinity company has replied to my request saying that there won't be a Linux version, ever.
2. The hacks that exist to run Affinity on Linux are a moving rug, newer wine of affinity versions break stuff all the time. Don't rely on it.

Your best bet is to run Gimp3 (which is excellent), or Photopea online. Learn Photopea so you can know Photoshop if in the future a future employer requires it, while for your own projects, learn Gimp3. I run the official Appimage without any issue.

Here are your choices to try out yourself and see if they can do what you need:

• GnuCash (distro support, flatpak)
• HomeBank (distro support)
• KMyMoney (distro support, appimage, flatpak)
• ActualBudget ( https://actualbudget.org/ , appimage, flatpak)
• Denaro (the newest on the block with modern UI, flatpak)

And for Android:

• IvyWallet

That is normal in software development. System76 thinks that they will reach v1.0 early next year, but in reality, this won't mature for another 2 years or so.

I use Gnome, and I'm not a hater, but if you're expecting some harsh criticism for it, here it is: Extensions breaking so easily should not happen. It's an extreme pain in the butt every 6 months. They should establish an allowed API that's frozen, while extensions that use private api calls, don't get posted on the gnome website/extensions app, so they're harder to find. Simple.

This is my rule of thumb and process to choose DE and distro:

1. Find the CPU model and do a google search with it and the word passmark. The passmark page will tell you how fast the cpu is. If it's between 500 and 1000, use XFce as your desktop environment. If it's between 1000 and 2500, you can use Cinnamon (Linux Mint). If it's more, you can use kde/gnome. If it's less than 500, use LXQT or LXDE.
2. How much RAM there is in there. These days, you need a minimum of 4GB of browse the internet (the DEs/distros themselves might use less than 1 GB of RAM, but the moment you open a web browser in this day and age, all hell breaks loose with memory usage). For best performance, 8+ GB is better.
3. Ensure that it has over 16 GB of a drive. At 16 GB (as in some old Chromebooks), only Debian fits these days (with 6 GB free space after installation). Mint and the others prefer over 24 GB (both fedora and all the ubuntu-based ones are too big to fit in 16gb without issues -- debian fits).

Using these rules, I've converted many laptops and computers for my family here in Greece, installing the most appropriate each time. The least powerful computer was my mom's old laptop, with 16 GB internal, 2 GB of RAM, 600 passmark points. As long as she's only opening 1 tab on Chrome (Debian/XFce), she fits in the 2 GB RAM without swapping (most of the time). I use Chrome and not Firefox for these older laptops because Chrome uses LESS memory than Firefox (there's an additional setting for it in the settings to help the matters more), and its youtube playback speed is much better too. I use firefox on more powerful computers, and it's my default too, just not for underpowered computers.

You need to make sure first that the MrChromebox.tech uefi firmware works with the chromebook model you are going to buy. Otherwise, you will just end up with an old chromebook.

1959 mechanical cameras. An electronic camera from 1969. Polaroid SX-70 from 1976. A calculator from 1988: FX85P from Casio. And then the Atari Lynx from 1991.

Traditional painting and illustration! While I now know that I never needed to spend more than $250 for professional-grade tools, I've spent about $18,000. As for sales in 3.5 years, they don't account for more than $800. For that I mostly blame Instagram where it's not possible to grow anymore organically and get an audience & potential customers. So I moved to the federated open source PixelFed now, if anyone's interested in my book-style illustration: https://pixelfed.social/EugeniaLoli

Also, as a word of advice for anyone who wants to also do illustration and don't want to do the same mistakes that I did. All you need is:

• The Lukas 24 watercolor palette of student grade ($18). It's good enough and these days most paintings are scanned, so even if not all colors are lightfast, it's not a big deal. Few people only buy originals, most go for prints. If you're going to go selling originals, consider the Daniel Smith primaries set of 6 colors for $40.
• A set of brushes of different sizes, including a flat brush and round brushes including a long thin one to do details, $15
• Pencil, eraser, sharpener, $15
• A set of gouache. Best bang for the buck for professional quality is DaVinci brand ($10 per large tube), or if you want to go cheap, the Himi Miya set for $25. If you go for the cheaper stuff, it's still advised to get a better quality white tube, so it's truly opaque (the cheap stuff aren't opaque enough). So go for Holbein or DaVinci white for $10-$15.
• Soft core colored pencils, set of 48+. $15 (you will mostly need the muted colors to enhance the painting with harder edges)
• Grey, sepia, black ink pens, and manga ink brush pens (for some types of paintings only), $40
• 100% cotton paper for watercolor $25, or any watercolor paper for gouache $10 (gouache works on any, watercolor is more nuanced).
• Brush watercolor markers, e.g. Tombows or Ecoline -- in case you want to do such type of illustration too, $30 for a few muted colors.
• Masking fluid for watercolors, $10
• White gel pen and white Posca pen (0.7mm) for white highlights, $15
• Faber Castell white pencil soft pastel, $4
• Caran d'ache Luminance white colored pencil, $4 (the cheaper colored pencils above again don't include a strong white)
• Caran d'ache Neocolor II white crayon, $4
• A ruler, to help you sketch.

I included various mediums above in white color because highlights are king in illustration, and each provides a different look and feel, depending on the painting. Happy painting!