Can this actually do a sustained 800lm for 6 hours per the manufacturer spec?
I don't think so. If you ignore the stepdowns in my runtime measurement and assume that it can maintain high level all the time, I'd say the total runtime at 800 lm will be more like 3 hours. Which is more or less what you get from the flood channel after the initial stepdown. Turn it on at turbo, wait 30 seconds for the stepdown and then you'll get almost 3 hours at roughly 750 lm.
Wann geht es denn hier weiter? Durch die Deföderation ist ein großer Teil meines Netzwerks weggebrochen, sodass ich mir dort jetzt einen weiteren Account angelegt habe. Das kann eigentlich nicht der Sinn eines dezentralen Netzwerks sein. Klar, ich könnte mir eine eigene Instanz aufsetzen, auf die nur ich Zugriff habe, aber das erscheint mir etwas übertrieben. Lemmy bräuchte für so einen Fall eine Single-User Version. Vielleicht gibt es sogar schon irgendein System mit ActivityPub, das so funktioniert... Mal schauen.
Awesome! I think c/flashlight is a really great alternative to r/flashlight, especially if more people would post here.
And thanks for the giveaway!
Wurkkos TS12, compact 14500 thrower:
Yes, you could (theoretically) use an emulator for the microcontroller. I tried it a few times. And it isn't fun. It takes a lot of effort to simulate all inputs, outputs are hard to interpret and all kind of effects of the real light aren't reproduced.
In reality we flash the build onto a flashlight and try it. Sometimes it's only a prototype, disassembled. And rarely it's an actual devboard which has all relevant parts of the flashlight nicely accessible (basically the microcontroller with required electronics, regulated power supply, low power LED to see the output, several LEDs for aux and button and the switch itself).
The UI of the Manker E02 II is very similar to the Skilhunt UI. Low group with 6 (?) levels of very low light, medium level and turbo. Not sure how it could be much shorter. Same for the ZebraLight, it can't be any shorter to fit a AA (except for the H50 which doesn't have a reflector).
I noticed this usability issue of lemmy as well. The photo is the one you can set as the URL for the post and a thumbnail of it should be shown at the top. Here's an embedded version of it:
In Germany we have them everywhere. When I look out the window I see at least 10 of them.
https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hinweisschilder_zu_Stra%C3%9Feneinbauten
When I count up to 100 I'd be able to count much further. In practice I'd just use my phone or a dedicated GPS receiver.
They are recalling the H150 and will exchange them for a fixed version. It's a huge financial loss, though. And I don't want to be the engineer who caused this trouble.
Probably yes, if you were able to unscrew the head (they use very good glue). Also there are several other components at the battery side of the driver. Lastly there's always the chance other components fall off from the heat, maybe at the back side.
So yes, it's possible, but difficult. The good thing: You don't have to worry about it, Skilhunt is recalling the H150 and will exchange them for a fixed version!
You are looking for an inexpensive and small thrower for your pocket? With Anduril and fancy aux LEDs? Then try out the Wurkkos TS11!
The Wurkkos TS11 is a fantastic, small pocket thrower that can easily keep up with larger flashlights such as the Sofirn IF22A in terms of range and brightness. Anduril offers many functions and can be updated and extended with some experience. On the other hand, this complexity can easily be overwhelming. (Wurkkos has just released the TS11S, which is the same flashlight, but with a simper user interface.)
There's a small issue with some orange in the spill, but you can either use the black version or apply my modification with aluminum tape. Apart from that the TS11 is exactly what I expected.
I don't use clips. Who would have guessed. How are you organizing clips that you don't use?
The Wurkkos TS11 in orange has one big problem: The inside of the head is orange as well. This causes an orange spill, as you can see in this image:
Today I noticed that the bezel isn't glued. So I quickly disassembled it, cut a piece of aluminum tape into the right shape and covered the inside of the head with it.
There's still some orange from the outside of the bezel, but that can be fixed with a black marker or a 3D printed insert.
If you want to go professional, there isn't much choice. Either The Sofirn/BLF LT1 or the smaller Sofirn LT1S Pro. Both have the Anduril operating system with a very complex, but also very powerful UI, they have adjustable color temperature and brightness – both either stepped or smooth – and the LT1S Pro even has a red channel!