this post was submitted on 07 Sep 2023
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ErgoMechKeyboards

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Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards

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Hi All,

I'm planning to print a plate & case for a handwired 46-key split kb. I have access to both SLA & FDM printers at a fab lab, so wondering which printer tech would be best to print various parts such as keycaps, plate, case etc. Function's more important than looks for me.

I'm allowed to use PLA or TPU for the FDM, and the default resin (ABS-like?) for SLA.

I'm thinking:

  • Keycaps: SLA (I want really thin keycaps)
  • Plate: ?? (not sure what's better for a thin & durable plate that allows a bit of flex when typing)
  • Case: FDM (Due to costs, and easy to embed screws & magnets)
  • Wrist rest (if any): FDM? Would TPU wrist rest be clean or comfortable?
  • Gaskets, extra layers (if any): FDM (cuz TPU)

What do you think?

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[–] [email protected] 7 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Your current plan is solid. Print the plate with fdm, though it can't be too thin. There are a few designs on thingiverse and etc. to get an idea on how thick.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (2 children)

Hmm what's the rationale to print the plate with FDM? Are SLA plates brittle or inflexible? (if printed with ABS)? I don't have much experience with SLA. And good point, I'll check Thingiverse for the thickness.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

It's just more due to the size and it being a mostly flat print makes it ideal for fdm.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

Ah that's true. I got the SLA printer's build volume and indeed it can't fit a whole half of the split kb in any way.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

The main problem with SLA is the material and size. I don't think SLA can print ABS?

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

I think this SLA printer can print ABS. Or at least I'm told the default resin is ABS-like. Probably not as durable I'm guessing.

[–] [email protected] 6 points 1 year ago (3 children)

For my board, I printed keycaps, plate and case all with FDM in PLA.

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Dude, what settings did you use to print those? Did you do any post processing? They all look amazing

[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 year ago (1 children)

No post processing on any of this. The case and plate were just with my standard printer settings, nothing special. For the keycaps, I printed them at an 80° angle so the stems would be stronger and used organic supports. 0.1mm layer height and oriented so the layer lines are along the finger travel direction so you don't notice the layer lines in use very much

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Do I see fuzzy skin on the plate at least?

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

It isn't fuzzy skin as set in the slicer, but it is texture imparted on the switch plate by using a textured PEI build plate.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

Wow, that looks gorgeous!!

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Can you share the files for your case? I'm wanting to make the same (Hillside 40, no?), but can only find files for a 46, and am hoping to avoid the learning curve needed for 3d modeling. Thanks.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

This is actually my fork of the Hillside with enough PCB changes that the case won't directly work with the original hillside unfortunately. Here's my repo: https://github.com/wannabecoffeenerd/hillside

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

I see. Thanks for sharing. I'll check it out.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago (1 children)

For wrist rest, you can stick a piece of TU leather to cover the printed surface, so it will look nice, be clean and comfortable. Not sure if TPU is sufficiently soft if you want a soft wrist rest, you would probably need something like silicone.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago (1 children)

Nice idea! Do you mean on top of the switch plate? I'm still brainstorming the design, but it will have a removable layer on top of the plate to hide the switches' legs (I don't like that "naked" feel) & keep some dust from falling inside the kb.

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 year ago

I just did it for the wrist rest, as that is the part your wrist will touch regularly. It is too much work to cut many holes if you want to cover the plate, and I don't think it will be much cleaner comparing with bare printed surface. You still need regular cleaning.