publicação cruzada de: https://lemmy.world/post/33514874

Hi there fellow people,

I was building an Aurora Sofle_v2 and I may have screwed things up. I melted one of the RGBs with the soldering iron and in the process of trying to remove it the solder pad was removed as well

After that I tried to "fix" it a handful of times, and now I believe that the connectors might be gone =(

Is there a way for me to salvage this RGB? (Or perhaps to link the previous one with the following one on the chain, so at least it works for the others)

I was thinking of connecting things using cables, is this an option?

Hey! I'm pretty new to this mech keyboard thing but I'm hooked. A couple months ago I got an Aula f75 and I love it. It sounds sooo nice and buttery... And the linear switches feel awesome to me.

I started looking at cute little 40% boards and thought I'd really like something ortholinear, minimal, where I'd have to use layers and home row mods etc. I got the $40 mk47 from Micro Center (sort of a Planck knockoff), put on some blank caps, learned enough QMK to set up my layers and tapdance and all that, and even switched from QWERTY to colemak-dh. This scratches a number of my neurodivergent itches! And I'm up to 35wpm after a few days. :P ...

Except for two things. It doesn't sound nearly as good as the Aula, and my wrists are starting to hurt. (My daily driver was a split membrane kb for years until this.)

I've been looking at the zsa voyager, and it looks like it could be "the one"-- it's portable (important), well built (can throw in backpack to take to office), etc. But will it satisfy the need for that sound?? So far looking around on YouTube it kinda doesn't seem like it,but it could just be that Voyager reviewers don't focus on such silly things as thocky vs creamy, lol. But this is important! Anyone feel me?

So I've also been looking at Cornes, and whatever other minimalist split kbs out there. I don't want to solder anything myself, which removes some options..

Any recommendations out there? Either for other boards, or "yes the voyager can thock"? Thanks in advance!!

These are for an upcoming keyboard meetup in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. I'm annoyed that some of the tacos didn't infuse properly, but most of them came out okay.

I've been using my first ever mechanical keyboard (Cougar Vantar MX) for like 3 years but recently a few keys broke and it doesn't have hot swap so yea I need a new one. The budget is up to $100 but closer to 50 would be preferred.

Requirements:

• Has to be mechanical lol.

• Has to be 100% with numpad due to simulation software I use. Without a numpad the software is truly hard to use.

• Has to be wired as I do play multiplayer games. Dual connectivity is fine only if latency is not impacted at all.

• Has to be black because my whole setup is black. Grey accents could be fine though.

• Has to be normal size. Now this one is important. My desk is tiny and the mouse is under the keyboard so every millimeter of vertical space matters. Obviously arm rest is a no go. No super low profile either though. I do need key travel.

• Has to have linear switches. I'm not picky about that but just don't make it 200g or 0.5mm of sensor distance. Something Cherry MX Red esque would be perfect.

Preferences:

• Separate volume control and mute keys/lever. I'm no fan of FN+F3.

• Proper RGB with on board memory.

• Decent reliability lol.

Not important:

• PBN/ABS keycaps.

• macros and other advanced features.

• basically anything very advanced.

I'm pretty sure that something like this doesn't exist off the shelf, but I'll ask to be sure. Is there an off the shelf, Alice-like, ergonomic or split mechanical keyboard that retains all of the keys of an TKL/80% in their proper relative positions?

I need a full set of full-size F keys, traditionaly arranged arrows/Ins/Del/Home/End/PgUp/PgDn, both Ctrls, both Alts. Numpad either gone or attached to the left. Just the main block has to be angled like an Alice keyboard. The closest thing I've found is something referred to as "Sanwa Alice" on Aliexpress, but it does unfortunately have the Numpad.

Is there anything that matches my description or do I have to go the full custom design route?

Designer: @[email protected]

I wanted a dedicated keyboard to control my home assistant for lights and stuff. Inside the junk drawer I had enough extra switches and a spare RP Pico, so I printed this enclosure.

This time I kept it super simple, just soldered right to the switches, no lights, 3x4.

Now it's up on my desk, and I've got a few unused keys for expansion!

Very noob review

• built quality is solid
• touches are easy to remap thanks to https://caniusevia.com/
• the keycaps are very nice (and kind of made me realize how lower quality the one of the Anne Pro II were)

I was also lucky to got it half price (around 100€ total instead of 200€), so very happy!

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/45767421

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.dbzer0.com/post/45765963

The design is based on the excellent Dactyl keyboard, generated with https://ryanis.cool/cosmos/ and it runs the excellent qmk firmware. It is handwired:

and I have also made a palm support using inkscape and openscad

All printed on a reprap prusa i3 derivative.

This helps me use my computer with less pain, so I want to call out all the wonderful projects and people who contribute to them which made it possible.

Total cost? $60 aud, amortised filament ~15 bucks worth maybe? and a lot of my time haha.

Hi everyone,

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https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/decade-of-artistry

• 6 Designs
• Prices start at $40
• Payment: PP/CC

• Free shipping on orders of 6+ keycaps.
• Each keycap comes in a handmade wooden box. We craft every keycap by hand using resin casting and layer-by-layer coloring – no 3D printing involved. The photos show actual prototypes we’ve made, not renders.
• We offer one-to-one replacement for any manufacturing defects. Feel free to contact us if you need help!

Original question by @[email protected]

Ages upon ages ago I spilled something on this keyboard. I don't really remember the details. The control key is sticky. It takes about twice as much force to push down and it really annoys me. I suppose I thought over the years it would get better, but it seems like it has gotten worse. How do I clean it or fix it? This keyboard does not have removable switches. The switch is MX Brown.