I'm trying to get back into 3d pruning after a long hiatus.

I found my old Anycubic Chiron, and thought I'd give it a go. Smaller prints seem fine. But anything longer than an hour. Come off like this. I say that what I mean is I excitedly take the multi hour print off the bed in excitement and for get to look at how it is.

The two longer prints definitely were at least in part still adhered to the print bed despite it being cold.

My next plan is to set a print away and check on it every hour or so and see if one side of the print has warped mid print (so far I've been printing before I go to bed, and only watching the initial couple of layers).

My guess it that the (pla+) filament is warping mid print... Its old I'll admit. But was stored in an airtight container with silica packs, and I dried it out before using. But any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

i used blender 3.6 to create the Sage of sixth paths Shakujo. I have not printed at full size yet. to have a photo i printed a very tiny version of it and all was well accept i printed it so small that the supports broke one of the main body rods. hope you guys enjoy and print. lmk if anything needs changing/improvement.

I wanted to share this highly customized GameCube keyboard controller I built for use with Animal Crossing. Since the first AC game doesn't support keyboard input, I used a Pi Pico to listen for keypresses and send simulated analog stick movements to the game, automating typing in Animal Crossing at a tool-assisted speedrun level. It works a treat! I designed the keycaps in FreeCAD and printed them on a Bambu P1P with an AMS and two different colors of PLA. The code and design files are available for free on GitHub.

And a full build/demonstration video is available here (I ended up making it do a lot more than just typing) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yw8Alf_lolA

Early studies show that 3D printers may leave behind similar toolmarks on repeated prints.

I used to print quite a lot of toys for my kids, but I stopped doing that, since it feels mostly like a waste of plastic.

3D printed toys are rarely enjoyable. The toys are usually either not interesting enough (think static, non-movable, single-color figurines like the low-poly-pokemon series), or not durable enough or both at the same time.

My kids liked the printed toys when they got them, but they barely looked at them after like 10 minutes and then they ended up rolling around the house until they broke, usually very soon.

I love 3D printing, I use it a lot for all sorts of things, but toys are just not a very good application for 3D prints, in my opinion. It's just not worth the plastic.

Edit: Just for context: I've been around the block with 3D printing. I started about 7 years ago and I've been the 3D printer repair guy for my circle of friends ever since, fixing up everyone else's printers. I design most of the things I print myself. The reason I am posting this is because pretty much everyone I know who has a printer and kids prints toys all the time, and any time I'm at any event where someone can shoehorn a box of give-away low-poly-pokemon in, there is one there.

IMO, this is all plastic waste and nothing else.

I’m hoping you guys can help me figure this out. I have an ender 3 pro, running on marlin firmware. Every time I try to print something one of the corners will lift up like that and ruin the entire print. I installed a crtouch to help with leveling, installed upgraded metal bed wheels to help it not fall out of level. Even tried a glass bed with glue and it still does the same thing. I used a filament dryer and have a heat enclosure. I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to fix this. Any suggestions? The pic is how it starts and that was just a brim since I used to always use a raft and thought I should try that instead.

I just feel like 3d printing business are everywhere and that i would stand no chance. Im not even sure how to find prints, But i can still dream... right? I would possibly be better off getting a job.

Have you tried starting a 3d print business or is it more as a hobby or both?

The guys at Flow Battery Research Collective have been designing a Redox Flow Battery development kit that you can build yourself using a 3d printer and a few tools. It's a desktop size flow battery that you can use to either do your own research, e.g. on different electrolytes or just to replicate their experimental findings.

Redox Flow Batteries have the potential to become grid scale or home electric energy storage solutions that are way better for the environment than current lithium based batteries. They can often scale power and capacity independently and allow for repairs.

The FBRC project wants to spread the knowledge on RFBs and help kickstart a global community that develops sustainable energy storage technology in an ope source fashion.

Beware that the project is still in its infancy and sourcing the materials can be a bit of a challenge. Be sure to ask around in the forums for help!

Hey all,

I'm planning on upgrading my Ender 3 V2 with a new printer, and I'm not sure which printer to choose.

SV08 has a massive build area, which I really like because of the size of my personal projects. And Klipper is a plus I guess? Never tried this firmware before.

On the other hand Prusa is well tested and known, also its multicolor extension is alluring to me.

Can you share your experiences if you used them before to help me choose? Thanks!

Don't mind the plastic wrap, I'm literally in the middle of an enclosure rebuild

Got myself a PolyDryer and was very confused why it included bowden tubes. But then I had an idea. Why not just include a mount for the tubes on my setup and use it to guide my filament into the printer. Love how well it turned out.

https://www.printables.com/model/1354587-slim-filament-guide-for-prusa-mk4

I was printing some ABS on my modified Anycubic I3 Mega overnight, when I awoke to this horror of a destroyed glass print bed...

Now the question remains, how to actually fix this? One part is still firmly attached to the Bed and I fear this may destroy the Bed even more.

And I obviously need a new Print bed, but I can't find the exact replacement, so should I even get a replacement Ultrabase? I saw that there are magnetic PEI beds available, but I am unsure if it is worth the 80-100€ for this.

Edit: Since the glass is glued to the 1.5mm aluminium heater PCB (and I already had to resolder the broken off wires once) I was looking at complete replacements at first, which why the price is relatively high

First PETG 3d print in a while. Main body seems fine but overhangs are not. Unsure why. Need to investigate. (it's a phone stand, the central portion swings out and makes a triangle, holding phone in that curve.)

Stl https://www.printables.com/model/979455-collapsible-stand-for-phone-or-tablet

My favorite 3D printer just released a new puzzle box. Take a look and check our his designs. Would love to see what people think?

Had a weird black stain on a PETG print. Maybe it was mold? It seemed pretty penetrated into material. Tried windex, all purpose cleaning spray, dawn soap and couldn't get it out. Gave a tide pen a try and it scrubbed right out easily with that!

If you wanna print it yourself, the model is here: https://www.printables.com/model/1348194-4n-threaded-flat-head-screws-and-nuts-10-32-equiva

Design to be a drop in replacement for 10-32 screws with a much, much higher pitch. These screws are extremely easy to print, is reliable enough that it can hold some weight.

If you wanna print this yourself, you need to make sure that the screw is sideways, so if it breaks it's no on the layer lines.

Using them in my own prints which had metal screws and they are holding quiet well.

I have been using my Bambu A1 mini for the last several months without major issue, but suddenly I can't get anything to print. Even a benchy detaches before finishing.

I have scrubbed the plate with a fresh sponge, soap and water. I kept my filament in a dehydrator for a couple of days, then immediately tried to print.

There is a local problem, where an illegal landfill caught fire, and it can't be put out. I smell burning rubber all the time. Could that be the cause of the print failure? What else can I do?

Right now all it has is a plotter adding but I'm also making a mount for a mill and lasercutter. It's meant mostly for making circuit boards but should be able to handle other projects as well.

It's designed in FreeCAD and some parts were sourced from discarded laboratory devices from my job as well as a broken 3D printer.

Here's a link to the FreeCAD in its current form. I'm not happy about Google but this is to be shared for free so it's okay.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TaGmB2l-2IpyjhtpyuxbR6gJtIwyiHvx/view?usp=drivesdk

Right now it's a bit messy but I intend to post it to printables.com later when it's fully done.

The video is sped up 8x. I think it can handle this speed realtime as well.

Tldr: Did Bambu address the issue, and should I look into updating firmware now.

For context, I got a Bambu Printer just before they released the changes to improve "security" and have been on old firmware since. I was looking at the Bambu Wiki and saw this page that indicated that all of the important LAN functions would be opened up. Unfortunately it requires being on LAN only mode, but I've been on LAN only since January because of their changes so it doesn't effect me much.

I'm not dependent on their cloud features as I am home a substantial amount of the time and I have a server for when I'm not (to use home assistant or wtv). From my point of view the developer mode seems to address my issues, but I wanted to know some other people's thoughts on the whole controversy and how it was addressed by Bambu.

Designed in FreeCAD. I wanted to make a customizable screw and nut for my designs. Took me (on and off) weeks to get this working. But now that it does, I kind of want to test it to see how strong it is.