3DPrinting
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
Rules
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No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
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Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
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No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
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No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
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Do not create links to reddit
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If you see an issue please flag it
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No guns
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No injury gore posts
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Generally any kind of superglue will be fine. Elmer's glue might even work if you're in a rush or don't have other materials. There will be a visible seam, and my experience with both is that it's quite easy to break the bond (especially with Elmer's glue).
What you really want is plastic cement or something that'll melt the plastic slightly, as that'll give a stronger bond. Plastruct is what I use, but there may be alternatives in your region. This will also leave a seam, but the strength is far stronger than regular glue.
Another way is to do what cosplayers do and use a soldering iron to melt the plastic together (do this in a well-ventilated area). This'll leave a seamless finish without any visible gaps, but only really works on larger models that you're also planning to coat/sand.
Having done this, you can also get a "3D pen" that will work with your filament and that'll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.
Plastruct has a few different variations but at least the Bond-2 Bondene Cement is a mixture of Dichloromethane and Methyl acetate (MSDS report), and Dichloromethane is one of the best solvents for PLA. It is also absolutely horrible stuff and you really need to be quite careful when handling it.