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How would you go about getting this rusted axle nut off? (thelemmy.club)
submitted 1 day ago* (last edited 4 hours ago) by to c/cars@lemmy.world
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The wheel hub on this corner hasn't be replaced in at least half a dozen years, so there's been no reason for the axle to come out. I've got a torn CV boot, and this car isn't really worth the $500 CAD for an axle replacement *at the shop

I've tried 1/2" drive tools, a shitty second hand mastercaft air gun, a 24" breaker bar, and a propane torch that seems to have fuel flow issues. and penetrant, of course. So far, hasn't budged.

update: thank you everyone for the advice, however I'm calling it. I got too many other unfinished tasks, I'll let this one go to the shop and do some OT this week in the time I'd have been fucking around with it.

I did drill into the rust around the threads and pry the washer collar off (there was no staked material left at all) to remove material and get penetrant in deeper, but this just isn't what I want to be working on right now.

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[–] [S] 4 points 23 hours ago* (last edited 22 hours ago) (1 child)

if I can get this nut free, I'll be replacing the whole axle with a cheap one. odds are very good that it will outlast the rest of the car

split boots are hard to find up here, it seems. there's like one Dorman option on Amazon and it doesn't seem like a great design and also allegedly doesn't fit Subarus.

the jack handle on breaker bar and moving/dropping the vehicle is going to be my approach this afternoon

edit: nvm, snapped my 1/2" breaker bar just using body weight. let's see if Canadian Tire still honours the MAXIMUM lifetime warranty

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  • [–] 3 points 21 hours ago

    I had one Subaru that gave me so much trouble I had to pull the whole axle, knuckle and all. I actually broke the mounting flange on the knuckle trying to press the axle out with a 30 ton shop press. That's how bad the corrosion/bonding was. The other side came loose with just a good knock with the hammer. Go figure.

    Well, be safe and good luck.

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