The wheel hub on this corner hasn't be replaced in at least half a dozen years, so there's been no reason for the axle to come out. I've got a torn CV boot, and this car isn't really worth the $500 CAD for an axle replacement *at the shop

I've tried 1/2" drive tools, a shitty second hand mastercaft air gun, a 24" breaker bar, and a propane torch that seems to have fuel flow issues. and penetrant, of course. So far, hasn't budged.

update: thank you everyone for the advice, however I'm calling it. I got too many other unfinished tasks, I'll let this one go to the shop and do some OT this week in the time I'd have been fucking around with it.

I did drill into the rust around the threads and pry the washer collar off (there was no staked material left at all) to remove material and get penetrant in deeper, but this just isn't what I want to be working on right now.

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[–] 6 points 1 day ago* (last edited 23 hours ago) (4 children)

You're making too much work for yourself for just a torn boot. If you're not wanting to spend the money to fix it why bother replacing a boot? You're still going to have to clean out and repack the joint with fresh grease or it's just a waste of time. Plus you need band clamping pliers. At that point you've already done more work than you would have just replacing the joint altogether.

Slap a split boot kit on there, drive it until the cv joint/axle or hub is worn out and then replace them both at the same time. You can get them both with better quality and cheaper at rockauto than the junk at the local parts store. $2 or $3 hundred at most.

If you're absolutely determined, just buy a heavy duty 1 inch drive impact. It'll come in handy for the rest of your life.

If you don't want to spend the money then:

In addition to all the bs everyone else has said (including knocking the stake out), torch, penetrant, etc., put a cheater pipe on the end of the biggest breaker bar you can find, lift the vehicle up about as far as the jack will go, set the bar so that the handle is against the ground and lower the vehicle until something busts.

Be sure to place a block under the lift point that's tall enough to keep anything from scraping the ground when the vehicle comes down.

And that's your litmus test. If the breaker bar pops before the nut then just buy a decent impact or the replacement parts.

Source: former mechanic.

Edit: Oh, if you can get a cutting tool in there, you can also cut a wedge out of the nut, use an air hammer with chisel tip. It works surprisingly well.

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  • [–] [S] 4 points 23 hours ago* (last edited 22 hours ago) (1 child)

    if I can get this nut free, I'll be replacing the whole axle with a cheap one. odds are very good that it will outlast the rest of the car

    split boots are hard to find up here, it seems. there's like one Dorman option on Amazon and it doesn't seem like a great design and also allegedly doesn't fit Subarus.

    the jack handle on breaker bar and moving/dropping the vehicle is going to be my approach this afternoon

    edit: nvm, snapped my 1/2" breaker bar just using body weight. let's see if Canadian Tire still honours the MAXIMUM lifetime warranty

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  • [–] 3 points 21 hours ago

    I had one Subaru that gave me so much trouble I had to pull the whole axle, knuckle and all. I actually broke the mounting flange on the knuckle trying to press the axle out with a 30 ton shop press. That's how bad the corrosion/bonding was. The other side came loose with just a good knock with the hammer. Go figure.

    Well, be safe and good luck.

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