The wheel hub on this corner hasn't be replaced in at least half a dozen years, so there's been no reason for the axle to come out. I've got a torn CV boot, and this car isn't really worth the $500 CAD for an axle replacement *at the shop

I've tried 1/2" drive tools, a shitty second hand mastercaft air gun, a 24" breaker bar, and a propane torch that seems to have fuel flow issues. and penetrant, of course. So far, hasn't budged.

update: thank you everyone for the advice, however I'm calling it. I got too many other unfinished tasks, I'll let this one go to the shop and do some OT this week in the time I'd have been fucking around with it.

I did drill into the rust around the threads and pry the washer collar off (there was no staked material left at all) to remove material and get penetrant in deeper, but this just isn't what I want to be working on right now.

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[–] 26 points 1 day ago (3 children)

To start with, that is a stake nut. You can see on the bottom about 5oclock position the edge of the nut is dented in, that locks it to a keyway on the cv axle shaft. There's not much left of that ofc but it's still holding something in place and not helping. Usually have to grind that off or pry the staked part out using a screwdriver.

I borrow a 3/4" anvil high-flow pneumatic impact wrench for stuck axle nuts. On clean west coast cars I can use my normal impacts but anything with the slightest modicum of rust needs the most torque you can throw at it. Use a high quality black 6pt impact socket to have the highest chances of removal without rounding the nut.

Something else you can do is put a heavy duty breaker bar on it that is longer than your tire, then drive the car backwards/forwards to apply torque. This usually breaks most breaker bars though, unless you get a 3/4 or 1" anvil.

Honestly at this stage I am assuming the end of that CV axle is cooked. I have very little hope that the threads will be usable once it comes off- and seeing as the CV axle holds the wheel bearing together, its not something I would chance. You can get aftermarket cv axles that usually last maybe 50k for under $80 US, which they suck but it is no 500CAD that you probably got quoted for an OE axle.

If that isn't an option you could leave the outboard joint alone and disassemble it from the inside half by removing the knuckle from the car (disconnecting brake caliper, control arms, and the shock/strut) and sliding the axle out of the trans. Most CV axles can disassemble from one or both sides for a boot replacement.

If the nut totally fucks off and you are SOL on the axle, drilling out the axle center in progressively larger holes until the threads are gone and the outer piece falls off might be your best bet.

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  • [–] 12 points 1 day ago* (1 child)

    OP listen to this guy about it being a stake nut. It is not gonna move unless you get that metal divot out of the notch.

    Cleaner example

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  • [–] 4 points 1 day ago

    Staking is there to prevent the slow unscrewing of a nut during road vibration.

    My 5 year old Milwaukee impact gun will take that off without unstaking. That’s not what’s stopping the nut from moving.

    When you use a breaker bar it helps to unbend the staking, but since axle bolts are usually under 200ftlbs of torque, applying 200lbs of reverse torque will also unbend the stake.

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  • [–] [S] 2 points 1 day ago

    yeah my plan is to replace with a cheap axle, so cutting the nut off is an option. this car is now a winter beater + truck replacement, so low mileage. plus idk if it will even last another year due to all the other repair costs that it might, does, and will require

    to everyone else that commented, thank you for the advice

    I will give another shot tomorrow and try to actually clean the rust at the end of the nut off, ran out of time today. it didn't budge at all, but this impact really is much lower power than I'd hope. my 1/2" breaker bar looked like it was ready to pop just from what I could apply by hand. I'd tried to pry the staked material out, but there was so much rust I couldn't even tell if any was left to begin with, and my tool was too large - I'll drill it a bit tomorrow to clear the rust out of the keyseat

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