this post was submitted on 02 May 2025
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Electricians

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Fridgie here. Just got some manufacturer training on some equipment that uses R-290 (propane) as the refrigerant and one of the interesting things in that training is that this manufacturer requires the use of wago lever connectors for any repairs on that equipment. They specifically tell you not to use any wire nuts or crimp connectors.

Why would they specifically require wagos? As far as I was aware the main benefit of them was ease of use and that doesn't seem like it would make any difference as far as the manufacturer is concerned. I especially fail to see how they could be more safe and robust than crimp connections. Is there something I'm missing here?

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[–] [email protected] 3 points 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) (1 children)

I am an electrician

Yes, operator error is a variable. And I almost mentioned that in my first comment, but honestly being able to make a strong splice is like day 1 shit man. If you can't outperform a Wago you shouldn't be working unsupervised.

To be clear, I like and use Wagos from time to time. But they're expensive and I know what I'm doing.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Yeah. There are cheaper knock-offs, but I don't know if I'd use them.

I've owned 4 houses. This last one was the only one that had good splices. Like, irritatingly good splices, because they were a PITA to unwind.

[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 week ago (1 children)

Oh yeah throw the cheap ones away. Even the ones by Ideal suck. Wago brand wagos or bust

I see splices all the time that are just way over-twisted. You shouldn't have to twist more than 3 or 4 times to get a good splice. Usually a sign of a new guy tbh

[–] [email protected] 2 points 1 week ago

It didn't occur to me until now, but... the wires are so twisted, not the twist includes not only the metal but a good half-inch of sheathing, and I wonder of they didn't do it with a power tool. The house is 24 years old, but I can imagine someone with a battery power drill and a pair of pliers grabbing the wires in the bit clamp and just running it for a few seconds. Even the 3- and 4- gang wires are like this, including the grounds.