3DPrinting

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3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

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Where to start with a Volcano hotend? (lemmy.world)

submitted 1 year ago by [email protected] to c/[email protected]

9 comments fedilink hide all child comments

I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn't have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I'm still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I'm still running the stock extruder, btw. I'm betting my problem is simply that I don't know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.

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[–] [email protected] 1 points 1 year ago

I do use a dryer on most, if not all of my filament, so I know it isn't that. Thanks for the tip, though. I literally have a Sonyu dryer with the extrusion nipple of both the top and bottom drilled out to 1/2 inch to get rid of the moisture. I'm able to get it down to 25% humidity at 40c or so inside, and I'll leave it for days before I print. Same results.