Self hosting on a bulletproof vps that actually deletes their logs and has a proven track record like buyvm is my preferred solution. I used this guide. It's not perfect, it doesn't set up encryption, and is a bit dated, but it's an okay starting point. I didn't bother setting up rspamd. You can also technically avoid setting up dovecot if you don't want to use IMAP/POP3, but really limits your selection of mail clients to basically mailx and friends. This setup will let you mail to major mail providers, but be wary of what TLD you buy, my .work TLD means I get autospammed. :(
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