As was requested, the brace tailhook for my TX7 Remix has been doubled in size. The blade is now twice as thick, and the brace arm has had its geometry updated to match the right side of the tailhook's profile.

Included are .STL and .STEP files for both parts, so further modifications can be made on an individual basis.

This brace is a remix of @CrankFastle "CRANKS DROP STABLE SKELLY"

The brace arm has been changed to work with the folding hinge from @philphisher "PP MCXish 3D Printed Folding Brace"

As such, this brace should work on any chassis or lower with a rear Picatinny rail section.

https://odysee.com/@RenegadeSC:e/TX7-Remix-Large-Brace-Arm-And-Tailhook:b

Will gladly take feedback! Needs some minor changes, but pretty happy with how it's coming so far.

Will upload it to Odysee under my name when it's finished!

Gonna try and make the handguard work standalone, for anyone that doesn't want to reprint their upper.

Hello everyone.

I've been following the community for many years and have built a few models thanks to the superb information provided by everyone.

I know this topic keeps coming up especially for non-American makers.

I'm familiar with ECM, I've done the FGC-9 and it turned out very well. I've tried the .22 rifling button from the guy in Ukraine with dubious results (I've NEVER seen rifling buttons on AliExpress). I can see the marks, but I'm not certain they're deep enough. This was for a Harlot build. I then did a .22 barrel for the Dirty Harry build using ECM with mandrels in the Professional Damage ECM Pack. I think that turned out quite well and was surprisingly easy.

I've used 12 mm OD 5.5 mm ID hydraulic pipe from AliExpress which seem to be readily available, but I was trying to find a suitable pipe with a smaller OD.

The best source I've seen is McMaster which carries a 3/8 inch, 0.216" ID which is rated for 15000 psi which seems perfect, but it's like 80 bucks a foot and I haven't even looked at shipping outside America.

I have not found any pipe on AliExpress with a 5.5 mm ID less than 12 mm. I usually look for 42crmo or 'explosion proof' in the description.

I do have access to a small lathe. How safe would it be to turn down 12x5.5 explosion-proof tube to say 8 mm OD for a .22 barrel? Would it support the pressure?

TIA

Are the files available for the Canik FRT yet?

in order to make a solid steel rifled barrel for a Null-22, how long has it to be it in total? all chamber+rifling+thread Should it be 100mm long? I can't fin it specified nor in the readmes nor in nthe not-a-glock instructions, I only found the guide rod size which should be 3mm od x 70mm lenght. the immortalrevolt's guide for .22lr barrel making says either 114 or 144mm but that's not related to these pistols. please help any explanations on Null-22 or NaG are welcome, I like those builds the most since almost everything can be printed or built with common parts, but there is a lack of clear specs and instructions.

Also, anybody has experience making a rifled .22 steel barrel? planning on boring a 12mm od 5.4mm id tube to 5.51mm bore then rifle it to 6.64 than chamber it and die the 1/2x28 thread. any advice? could be an option instead to just "sand paper roll bore" the inside from 5.5 to 5.51mm?

thanks to everyone who knows this topic and will take the time to answer!

In your opinion, as of january 2026, which are the best .22 semiautomatic fully DIY builds? simplest to build? most reliable and durable and accurate? most funny? I'm curious, I knew NaG and Null22, just discovered SY22, would like to know what is advised over the others and why

As promised, the Beta is here. There is no guide at this time; however, most is self-explanatory. The MP7 sights, in particular, will require their own guide. The rear peep sight will need to be drilled out, along with all of the various bolt holes. This is done intentionally to ensure the threads work with the minimal amount of material in some areas.

Inspiration is from the MP7 and MP9.

TX22 TX7 Add-Ons & Alterations:

TX7 Chassis:

• The front has been opened up slightly to accept common 22lr suppressors 38mm or thinner OD - (Dim it Down, FTN.3 Rimfire, FTN.4 Rimfire, FTN.4 CF Rimfire, and FTN.5 Rimfire)

• The rear pic rail section has been extended to match the lowest portion of the folding adapter

• The bottom is now enclosed, and the chassis captures both the rear-most frame pin along with the last 5mm of the TX22's beavertail.

Modified Cranks Skelly Brace:

• The QD in the rear has been removed

• The brace arm has been altered to work with the MCXish folding adapter

• The arm has been cut out in line with the tailhook, with matching geometry to be more comfortably braced

Modified MCXish Folding Adapter:

• The adapter has been extended to flush against the back of the chassis

• The adapter was lowered so it works better with the charging handle

Modified Mo Grip:

• The grip has been chopped to fit cleanly on the lower rail (MP9 Vibes)

• The grip has been changed to M5 hardware

Printable MP7 Iron Sights:

• Made from the CMMG leak files and modified to be printable while retaining aesthetics and complete functionality (functional elevation/windage adjustments)

Notes:

• The hole positioning of the rear frame pin is untested; however, it should be correct as the creator of the model has 3k rounds on the frame. The beavertail cutout in the chassis is also untested, as the frame used for modeling is not a factory frame. The cutout in the chassis should be an easy fix, as you can simply file/sand to the proper fitment. Furthermore, the right-side safety selector cutout had to be shortened to allow for the pin placement, as such binding may occur; additional changes may be needed. This was released into Beta as people have been asking for it.

• The purpose of the lower folding adapter, along with the curved brace arm, is to clear below the left side Picatinny rail. This way, if you have a light or laser mounted, the brace won't interfere when folded.

• Depending on the suppressor used, the TX22 may not cycle with the FRT. I'll be working on a weight system that will work with the chassis.

• Lastly, you'll notice a modeled barrel, as I couldn't find one that existed. The locking surfaces on the bottom and major dimensions are correct, but some features, such as curve geometry, aren't. Use this as you wish.

Here's a list of what was used:

Chassis - "TX7 Pistol Chassis TX22" by GG3D

Folding Mechanism - "PP MCXish 3D Printed Folding Brace" by philphisher

Tailhook & Arm - "CRANKS DROP STABLE SKELLY" by CrankFastle

Foregrip - "Mo Bigger Grips" by BrokenBullets

Suppressor - "FTN.5 Rimfire from the FTN.5 Suppressor Pack" by Plaboi

Extended Mag Release - "TX22 EXTENDED MAG RELEASE" by MiddletonMade

SCS FRT - "TX22 FRT v7" by ODD MFG LLC (No longer available)

SCS Striker Housing - "TX22 SR MM SCS" by pembie000industries

Compensator - "TX22 Comp v3" by pembie000industries

Mag Extension - "BoomTube 22" by the_fly1ng_v1k1ng

TX22 Lower Model - "Taurus TX22 Basic

Blocky" by RacoonDev_1258837

https://odysee.com/@RenegadeSC:e/TX7-Remix-BETA-(by-RenegadeSC)

I'm going to keep this short since there's a ReadMe in the files, which you should DEFINITELY read all the way through before printing, should you choose to print this.

WARNING Have had consistent OOB Detonations. Nothing's broken, and none of the 9mm casings have blown out, but be wary. Read the ReadMe for more info.

I was originally planning on tabling this project since it's not completely finished yet, and I'm going to be busy with college, but some expressed interest in continuing it for me, so I decided to release it as a Beta. Plus, people will be able to test it out with different Mac platforms, which I'm hoping it will be compatible with. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. And if anyone tries this with their mac, I'd greatly appreciate feedback.

Remember to be stupid, safely. -ToadLicker556

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/177907

I was asking for some help because i couldn't get into the index on my phone using mlem, it just keeps loading, obviously i can use my computer still. but im not sure what to do. any help?

hey everyone, new here been making for a while thought id do some good in the community thats benefited me so greatly. im currently designing a Glock 17 slide which will be machined in separate parts of course this has been done before credit to whoever did it first i'm not sure who came up with the idea, however when put into practice as of now it is very difficult to find a manufacturer in china who is both capable of and willing to manufacture the parts as some of the parts are very difficult to manufacture. i am currently working to simplify this while still being very user friendly so people in countries where it is difficult or impossible to legally obtain parts like this. so they will be more than capable of obtaining it themselves and with no oversight. there are a few other problems with the design floating around, lack of any grip whatsoever, crude design, no .step files (chinese manufacturers use them and could be wrong just couldn't find any myself.), etc. once i release the completed files i may begin working on a similar machinable barrel.

if anyone has any ideas or suggestions please reach out.

ideal metal: 4140 steel treatment: hrc 65 (the heat treatment) tolerance: 0.01 (ideal not much but a little wiggle room)

what you do with this information is your responsibility i do not encourage anyone to break the law please be responsible freedom requires us to live outside of safety lets not make it less safe then needed use your brains

live free or die. -Pinky.

Finally happy with it, I still need to tweak a few things (mainly tolerances) but this should be releasing within a few more days.

TX22 TX7 add-ons & Alterations:

- Modified Cranks Skelly Brace removed QD in rear, altered brace arm to work with MCXish, also cut out the section inline to the tailhook with matching geometry to be more comfortably braced

- Modified MCXish Folding Adapter extended to flush against the back of the chassis, also lowered the rear portion as to work better with the charging handle

- Modified Mo Grip fits cleanly on the lower rail (MP9 Vibes)

- Printable MP7 Iron Sights functional elevation/windage adjustments

- TX7 Chassis has the front opened up slightly to accept suppressors

All original creators will be credited once I write up a guide. Most is self explanatory however the MP7 sights need a "read me" of their own. Sights will require drilling out each hole as theyre made undersized on purpose.

Inspiration is from the MP7 and MP9.

Note: The purpose of the lower folding adapter along with the curved brace arm is to clear below the left sides picatinny rail. This way if you have a light or laser mounted the brace won't interfere when folded.

Additionally, I'll be trying to design a weighted back plate within the limited space left within the chassis, this may require extending the chassis slightly. This will only be necessary when running an FRT suppressed as the Gen 2 slides dont have enough mass to stay in battery and not bounce open.

The other day, I conducted my first live-fire test of the MPA Defender FRT I designed. Unfortunately, it seems to have a couple of issues.

1. I've been having consistent OOB detonations (photos shown at end of video). Nothing has been damaged as a result of the 98 rounds I tested with, and none of the casings I looked at had blowouts. However, it's still concerning, and I'm not sure if I could release it like this in good conscience.
2. The FRT wears out way too quickly. The first one lasted about 47 rounds, and the second 51 rounds (in Polymaker PLA pro).

To stop it from wearing out, I've been pondering some ideas for cutting out the part that touches the bolt from a metal blank and screwing it on, and have tinkered with making some printed jigs for cutting said part. I've also considered printing it out of a stronger filament like PA612-CF or PA6-CF, but I'm unsure if these would work well.

To stop the OOB detonations. I have no clue what to do.

Another hurdle is that I have just started another college semester, and things have picked up a lot, so I won't be able to work on it till it's done in about 16 weeks. So I do have to postpone its release to an unknown time, I do apologize.

Stay safe, stay free, Toadlicker556

Began working on some MP7 iron sights last night, its taken all day making minor tweaks but I've got the first functional set made for roughly $5.

Fully functional windage and elevation adjustments as per the real steel. There's a hole in the front sight for a setscrew to adjust elevation when folded. The front sight post can be adjusted up and down for elevation by screwing it in and out, theres a printed detent that makes it tight enough to never move unless you purposely adjust it (shes on the tight side). Then the rear sight is adjusted for windage by the M3 bolt, its contained so it cant be unscrewed (tighten to move right, loosen to move left).

Hardware is 2x M5x30 socket head bolts, 1x M3x30 socket head bolt, 1x AR-15 detent spring cut in half

Due to how small these are they're not going to be as durable as other designs but they seem fairly strong in PET-CF. I'll have to test in PA6-CF later.

There's still a few things I want to change before I create an assembly.pdf and release it on Odysee. Just looking to see what the community thinks.

i just bought a few crates of yougo m67 for a steal.only thing is they are all pre loaded in stripper clips. i found online you can buy the speed loader for it but was just seeing if anyone had a print or a url for one .i havnt had any luck so far .thanks

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7254214

Hello all, I’m working on an FRT for the MPA Defender (unsure if it will work with other Mac’s). Minimal testing has resulted in success, and I have begun optimizing. No promises on perfection though. I’m working with TinkerCAD, a bent tape measure (yes, calipers are cheap, but I’m cheaper), and a LOT of trial and error, all in the name of losing money faster. I don’t have anywhere close I can live fire test it (except for an unsupervised outdoor range where I was able to sneak a 3 round burst off that went great), so it’s going to be a little bit before I can (but before the 12th because college starts back up). What I want to ask you guys is if anyone would even be interested in this project? And a little bit of licensing advice for someone who knows little. Through my research, I’ve found CC BY-SA 4.0 to be the best license as (to my knowledge) it allows free download, remixing, gives me credit (I’m the one that went through all the filament and time, plus it’s free), gives people the ability to print it or make it from metal and sell it. And prevents people or companies like rare greed from stealing it and claiming it’s theirs and monopolizing it or putting the files behind a paywall. (Yes, I know it’s not anything as big as Hoffman Tacticals Super Safety, but I still don’t want the potential of it getting stolen). Any help or insight would be appreciated!

TLDR I’ve designed an unfinished FRT for the MPA defender. Requires more testing. Asking if anyone is interested. Asking if anybody knows if I should license under CC BY-SA 4.0 to protect against any rare greed type problems.

cross-posted from: https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/170510

Im sure everyone can make these models a little better and safer. What are your thoughts ?

I have a safariland and aliengear duty holsters and I haven't gotten a holster hanger for them yet. Is there any 3d scans of the Cubl, drop leg, truenorth concepts holster hangers? Unfortunetly for me there isn't any stores nearby that have these options and i don't want to spend an arm and a leg on return shipping. The idea is to 3d print the belt to holster to see which one to get then order the real version.

If there isn't any files can someone with a 3d scanner scan theirs please?

is .1 or .2 layer height stronger?

Does someone have screenshots of 300blkfde pa6 settings that I can see, I’m on centuari carbon so the printer file doesn’t transfer all the settings correctly when downloaded and put into Elegoo slicer

Hello, everyone! I'll say right away that I'm not very familiar with 3D printing, although I have worked with plastic. I'm more in the metalworking field. So here's my idea: printing a 3D object with small holes inside, possibly in the form of a mesh or hexagon. Creating such a micro-porous structure with the smallest possible gaps. Then cover this structure with liquid metal, the main thing is to use plastic or print settings for better adhesion.

After all these procedures, you can start galvanizing the part. For example, using chrome or copper. This will make the structure stronger and, in theory, able to withstand high temperatures and pressures.

ImmortalRevolt's V3 ECM for .22lr (for null22 or not a glock). the README (first half) says to use a 8mm OD tube with 4-5.4 ID, the PDF (second half) instead says that .22lr barrels are made from 16mm OD tubes like othe calibres just with 5.4mm ID. so what is the right choice? is this for the suppressor thread? I think that 16mmOD is way too much for either NaG or Null22

This is a fairly new 0.4mm hardened nozzle in a Bambu P1S, the nozzle has maybe 100hrs on it with the only other filament being Overture PLA Pro Black. I switched to the Polymaker Metallic filament, got it calibrated, then printed 2 good parts. This handguard has since failed twice with the nozzle getting clogged. The longest part is the last print where it made it roughly 85% of the way and clogged before printing the threads...

This is my only spool of the material and I only have enough left for 1 more attempt, it's a nearly 18hr print. Is the Metallic glitter within the filament what's causing the clogs? Any tips or suggestions to avoid clogs with this material? Yesterday I took the extruder about and cleaned it well thinking that it could be contributing.

wondering if anyone is interested. i have a almost compete recession ruger build kit for $145. also have glock complete build kits. ruger 1022 barrel and stock. mags all sorts of stuff.

Hey guys, I hope you're all doing great. So basically, I just made the harlot and I used .22 LR blanks. After I fired, the cartridge case cracked on the side and there are now tiny residues in the barrel. I just glued the air rifle slugs on the front off the blank. Can anyone tell me what these are? I used .304 stainless steel, 8mm OD, 6mm ID.

https://imgur.com/a/pFlayjb

Cheers (: