I've been chasing this one for a couple weeks now. It always seems to be behind trees or clouds whenever I try to capture it, but I finally managed to get a some solid time. I'll get more when I get a chance to try to pull out more deail.
Dwarf Mini, 108 60s exposures, Gain 60, duo-band filter
Post-processed with seti-astro-suite pro

Used the JWST's NIRCAM data (calibration level 3) from filters f444w-f470n, f335m, f227w, f200w, and f187n.

I tried to use the visible range filter too (f090w) but it was too artifacted even with extensive cleanup.

Processed in Siril using mostly the Veralux workflow scripts and a few scripts I made to wrangle JWST data.

I think I'm going to try the level 2 calibrated data next, it'll be more work but I'll also have more flexibility.

I got two mostly clear nights in a row (a rarity this time of year) and was able to gather a total of about 11 hours of sub-frames on NGC 7023. I wish I could get more of the fainter details, but I think I'm limited by the light pollution in my area (Bortle 6ish).
Gear: Dwarf Mini
Settings: eq mode, 60 second exposures, gain 60, astro filter
683 total sub-frames used in the stack

Building on Papillon's original guide on the PixInsight forum, I've put together a consolidated and maintained version on GitLab:

https://gitlab.com/K-22/pixinsight_rocm_linux_instructions

What it covers

The guide walks through building TensorFlow 2.19.1 with ROCm 7.2 support inside a Docker container and configuring PixInsight to use it. The Docker approach keeps the build clean and reproducible — no build dependencies on your host. Also includes performance tuning and troubleshooting.

Tested with

• AMD Radeon RX 9070 XT (RDNA4 / gfx1201)
• Ubuntu 24.04 and CachyOS (Arch-based)
• ROCm 7.2, TensorFlow 2.19.1

Should work with older AMD generations (RDNA3, RDNA2, etc.) by adjusting the target architecture flag — the guide explains how.

Contributions welcome

AMD GPU support on Linux is a moving target. If you've tested a different GPU, found a distro-specific fix, or have a better configuration — open an issue or MR on the repo. Even just confirming it worked on your setup helps.

Full credit to Papillon for the original guide. This repo is just an effort to make it easier to find, maintain, and extend.

Clear skies.

Taken from my Canon EOS T2i, mounted to the top of my telescope. Thirty 10-second exposures. ~~Manually subtracted the same dark frame from every one to account for the many dead pixels, then manually aligned and stacked in GIMP. No idea what I'm doing, but I like it good enough.~~ Stacked with Siril. Should have done that from the start lol

Next time I'm gonna try to capture it high in the sky instead of when it's at the horizon, and I'm gonna watch a tutorial on stacking instead of dicking around blindly

EDIT: I followed a tutorial! At least, as best as I could with one dark frame and no bias or flats. Still, a massive improvement over manual stacking. Still just dicked around with the colors and levels in GIMP after stacking, but you can sort of see M42 now!

Original picture for posterity. This is what the first 10 comments saw.

Equipment:

• Olympus E-M1 Mk III (unmodified)
• OM-System 100-400 f/5-6.3 II
• SA-GTI

Image:

• 30 sec, f/7.1, 1600 ISO
• 245 Lights (~2h)
• Biases, Darks & Flats for Calibration

Stacked using Siril and edited in GIMP

Any advice on how to get more color in?

I've dabbled in amateur astronomy for many years, but I've never really gotten into astrophotography because, frankly, I didn't have the patience. Or the funds. Especially considering where I live. It's a Bortle 6 zone not far from Seatltle, so observing conditions are rarely great. This time of year it's mostly overcast.

In the last several years, though, we've got some amazing new devices coming on the market that make the hobby a lot more accessible. And in the last year or so they've become much more affordable. I just got my hands on a Dwarf Lab Mini. So far, I've only had one good clear night to really put it through its paces, but I'm already blown away at what I was able to capture with no real experience. This is the M81 cluster after about 4.5 hours of 60s subframes. The auto-stacked results looked okay, but I grabbed the FITS files off the device and re-stacked them using Siril, then did some post-processing using Seti Astro Suite. Really not much, though. It almost feels like cheating.

Orions jewel captured Feb 13th

Second attempt at the orion nebula with the dwarf 3.

Hi All, I have a Sony A9, which I have been using for Aurora photography. The last time I went out, I shot at 6400iso, 2s exposures, and nearly all of the photos I got have a ton of "stuck" pixels. See the video, skip halfway in, and look at the rocks in the bottom right.

I have had a play with the the camera with the lens cap on, and at low isos, there are no stuck pixels, it's only once I go past 640 (the second iso range) that the issue appears. Has anyone seen this kind of thing before? Is it repairable? I'm guessing most of you shoot at iso100, but for aurora it was nice to get the shorter shutter speeds.

My first attempt at NGC 281 Pacman Nebula with a Dwarf 3.

I got myself a seestar s50 and this was the first thing I took with it where something showed up lol. I'm still learning how to use this thing though but overall I'm happy so far. Even though the s30 pro got announced like 2 minutes after it hit the buy button haha.

Missed the full Supermoon the day earlier, this was taken on 4.1.26 and I’m pretty satisfied with the detail out of it.

Source:

After having basic camera setups with simple trackers, I was gifted a seestar s30. Closed in back yard has a small area that isn't covered in trees but has a perfect view of Orion. Going to let it run as long as I dare tonight and pull the fits files to import into siril and do a proper stacking but the apps stacking after only fifteen minutes is already making me excited for what I can pull out of it with an hour+ integration time.

Now if the clouds and fog stay away long enough for me to get quality subs, I'll be a happy night owl

Edit: cloud bank came rolling in shortly afterwards. Will have better seeing the next few nights so hopefully will be able to get a lot more time to help clear up the noise and improve detail. Fifteen minutes is nowhere near enough

Whit Dwarf 3. Non EQ mode. 15x 15 minutes.

Nothing special. Jest wanted to share.

Equipment used:

• Lumix G85
• Lumix 100-300 f4-f5.6
• SA-GTI

Image:

• 10 sec, f/6.3, 6400 ISO
• 1200 Lights
• 50 Biases, Darks, Flats

Stacked using Siril and edited in GIMP

As you can see, there is a lot of noise, even with heavy editing and noise reduction in siril as well as in GIMP, and I'm out of ideas of what could cause it. I tried different exposures (from 10s to 30s), different ISOs (1600-6400). I tried to manually dither by moving the mount through the App every 30 minutes or so. I also used a lens dew heater at different temperatures ranging from 15°C to -5°C with no difference in noise.

I got a successful result a few months ago with the Orion nebula, the only differences were the exposure of 5 seconds and a Omegon Mount MiniTrack LX3 Essentials mount which couldn't be polar aligned very well. I can't imagine that the difference from 5 to 10 seconds exposure did all the difference.

Can anyone help me?

Hello!

I had a very brief weather window to attempt the Pleiades with my new GTI, everything else is the same as last time except some new editing steps in Siril and Affinity Photo.

It's about 2 hours worth of data in 25 sec shots, unguided, with a 500mm photo lens stopped down to f8 (hence the spiky stars) and a stock Sony A6000.

Lost about an hour of data because the powerbank that powered the dew heater died, putting that on my checklist for sure!

Feedback appreciated, old post in the comments for reference.