I mean 20 years ago it was already a thing. I have enough friends who were at very least furry adjacent to know that for the majority of them it was basically a lower key funny art thing with an element where people were expressing themselves kind of the same way they resonated with like horoscopes and things with a fashion element. Like we had people who wore cat ears because they thought they were cute or drew avatars of themselves and their friends as animals because of some sort of perceived caracature of your traits physical or personality based.

Cosplay culture was something that was on the rise when I was a kid but being a goth was huge when I was in school. It was all skulls, vampire shit, and leather spiked collars, bracers , trenchcoats and fishnets and kind of kitschy fake witchcraft you pretended was actually spooky ... But of all the kids that kind of were into it most were completely oblivious to how many of those fashion elements came from the bdsm and fetish community and really couldn't have cared less because that wasn't why they liked it. SO many of us were complete prudes by any standard. Like, of my cohort of goth kids about 75 percent of us were still virgins when we graduated.

Teenagers like to play dressup just like your 5 year old does, that's why anime conventions are so dang popular. We're just old now and the stuff changes and it doesn't make sense to us.