Made a few line carvings similar to my previous post and trying to work out how to finish them. So far experimenting with Danish oil and Tudor oak coloured briwax. I also probably need to get some finer grit sandpaper at some point.

Carve straight into old wood, the carved lines are pale compared to the surrounding weathered wood. The lines are distinctive and easy to see.

Same as above followed by sanding and oiling, the lined are far less visible in comparison. Adding the wax and it might be a slight improvement but still not as clear as it was initially.

Attached image - Quick test this morning, sanding the wood then carving and applying wax, no oil. Some patches have held the wax/dark colouring better than others after wiping it down.

I am considering next trying to sand and oil the wood, then carve it and then wax it. Maybe a very gentle sanding before waxing if necessary but trying to keep most of the oil layer.

Trying to get the carved groves to be darker than the surrounding surface wood. Only got a few more bits of flat wood that don't have nails or staples in them, or too many cracks and splits.

you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
[–] 2 points 4 days ago (4 children)

Have you considered actually filling the carved grooves with something like black crayon wax, CA glue, or epoxy? It may or may not be the look you're going for, but it would guarantee the contrast.

  • source
  • hideshow 4 child comments
  • [–] [S] 1 point 4 days ago (3 children)

    Not sure how easily that would apply. Black/dark brown crayon/beeswax could be something to try. Not sure how easy it would be to remove it if some ends up in the wrong place. Might be OK to sand it off.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 3 child comments
  • [–] 2 points 4 days ago (2 children)

    I've seen it done in videos of people making epoxy river tables and such. Basically, you take a crayon (maybe not literally a Crayola, but something from a woodworking supply made for that purpose?) and a lighter and just let the wax drip into the crevice, wait for it to cool/harden, and then scrape/sand/plane the whole surface flat as usual.

    It is a different result than having the texture of your carved grooves exposed, though. It would almost be like a black inlay.

    Also now that I think about it, I have another idea: you use a woodburning tool to char your grooves.

  • source
  • parent
  • hideshow 2 child comments
  • I used to make laser etched wooden signage. The finish I recommend for this is shellac. It's one of the few things that doesn't erase the char marks. Most other coating chemicals seem to have the effect of washing the soot/charcoal/whatever off.

    I don't know what actual physical or chemical process was at work, but applying urethane or something like that over the wood caused the char marks to lighten to illegibility, where shellac doesn't.

  • source
  • parent
  • [–] [S] 2 points 4 days ago

    Woodburning would certainly be dark. Not sure how well it would do multiple depths, although so far only doing a simple single depth carving if I get better at it then could look at multiple.

    I am now wondering how long the wax I am using takes to dry. It said 5-10 mins but that could be specifically for a very thin surface cover. At work now but I might poke the wax still in the groves when I am home and its had hours to dry. Perhaps some of the problem is wiping it too early and the thicker layers need more time.

  • source
  • parent