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[–] [S] 76 points 1 day ago (61 children)

If you consider depreciation and increasing gas prices, getting a 1 or 2 year old EV today is the best financial decision for those having that budget. It will also work for lesser budgets.

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  • [–] 3 points 14 hours ago (18 children)

    If you consider depreciation, that 1 or 2 year old EV today will take a much deeper plunge over the next 5 years than a 1 or 2 year old ICE vehicle, unless something changes rapidly or they change battery warranties to be 15 years or more.

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  • [–] 2 points 2 hours ago*

    Unless you are getting an old Nissan leaf, you’re probably going to be fine. Todays EV batteries are so energy dense they undergo less strain than the old versions.

    There were 2 problems with early EV batteries. First, they were not actively cooled and could cook themselves to death over time. Today’s batteries have their own climate control.

    Second, they were not very energy dense, so when they were being charged or discharged, you were moving a larger proportion of overall capacity in a short amount of time. Batteries do not like that. But as the capacities grew, the instantaneous load on the batteries dropped, so they didn’t have to work as hard to do the same thing. So they weren’t as abused and last longer.

    Event first gen Chevy volts are rolling around happily on their original batteries with no noticeable loss in capacity to this day.

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  • [–] [S] 7 points 10 hours ago (8 children)

    You'll need to show data for that. Depreciation is not linear. The first year is worst and then not so bad.

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  • [–] 6 points 10 hours ago* (7 children)

    You can look up used car prices yourself. But sure.

    2 year old E-Tron for 65k

    5 year old E-Tron for 25k

    That 5 year old one is starting to look like a pretty good bargain already. The 2 year old one not so much.

    I can find you tons more pairs for EVs that have lost a ton of value going from 1-2 to 5-6 years old if you still don't believe me, but we'll have to discuss my hourly rate if I'm going to be working for you.

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  • [–] 2 points 6 hours ago (2 children)

    In 2003 I bought a 1993 Mercedes for 5% of its sticker price, inflation-corrected. 80K Km, new-looking. Everyone warned me about maintenance costs but the '93 was a rugged beast. Family road trips and multiple moving days and a lot of mileage. I was prepared for some expensive repairs due to money saved in purchase costs but got through another 10 years no problems, other than the 4matic AWD computer which just turned it into a solid RWD until I bought a used replacement.

    Gaming the ripe time to pick a used model really depends upon design and manufacturing, but the sweet spot for reliable brands seems to be 5-10 years.

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  • [–] 2 points 5 hours ago (1 child)

    In 2019 I bought a 2003 Mercedes for somewhere between 5 and 10 percent of its sticker price, I guess pretty close to 5 if inflation is accounted for. Maybe even less.

    It had 380k km on the odometer, but it had been through Lithuania so some of the modules showed 700k km when interrogated. Previous owner also told me that there's no way the 380k km is original.

    I did have to do maintenance on it, but the only thing that really let me down was the steering rack. It failed and then a reman replacement unit failed too. Only reason I got rid of the car, otherwise I'd still be driving it. Bulletproof engine and transmission.

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  • [–] 1 point 5 hours ago*

    Bulletproof is just the beginning. A British car show did a multipart series of segments trying to ruin a w124 model, a 300te seven-seater 'station-wagon' and I think the cannonball ended it.

    Lots of great features. The memory-adjusting drivers seat, third row, flat deck when seats were down that's just long enough to sleep on, the cargo cover, the crazy stable 5-point suspension and self-leveling system, sensitive AWD drive, skookum quiet sunroof, great wipers, wood trim, and ultra rugged mb-tex seat fabric. Also relatively safe, for the time.

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  • [–] 1 point 8 hours ago (3 children)

    Non-luxuries saw even bigger drops. Check out the Nissan Ariya, 2 years old already going as low as $20k.

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  • [–] 1 point 5 hours ago (1 child)

    Unfortunately the Ariya is something I find completely uninspiring. Somehow the interior seems even more dull than Tesla's. For the same price I could have a Mercedes EQC. For even less, I could have a Jaguar I-Pace, just have to go a bit older with those.

    If the fuel crisis goes on, I may just get an early I-Pace in a few months though. Otherwise I was planning on waiting a few more years till slightly newer luxury models are similarly depreciated, preferably something non-crossover.

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  • [–] 1 point 4 hours ago

    Basic interior, but very comfy and amazingly cheap used in the US! One of the few cheaper models that had a heat pump standard and should comfortably be able to do a 150 mile round trip in snow without stopping to recharge even as the battery ages.

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  • [–] 1 point 11 hours ago (6 children)

    That's a good thing, is the point of this article and general wisdom. Cars last 10+ years so for the used market, the sooner the car depreciates the better. Unless you plan to sell your car, depreciation rarely matters right? You buy a car to run it into the ground, so the cheaper to start the better.

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  • [–] 1 point 10 hours ago (5 children)

    Yes, it's a good thing for buying a very used car. You'd have to be a fucking idiot to buy one brand new and mildly stupid to buy a lightly used one.

    It's not a good thing if you want to buy an EV that's still worth something with the intention of being able to sell it before it becomes a heavy heap of problems. Heavy depreciation is good when you're buying 10+ years old, not when you're buying 2-3 years old with warranty still intact. For that case you'd want moderate depreciation, where it's already lost some price, but you know it'll still be worth something in 5 years. Plus most people still need to get financing of some sort on a ~20-30k purchase. If it depreciates too quickly and something happens to your finances, you'll be underwater on that loan or lease while trying to get rid of it.

    Meaning any EV under 10-15 years old is currently a really bad deal financially, meaning an early Tesla Model S is basically the smartest EV purchase unfortunately.

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  • [–] 1 point 8 hours ago (2 children)

    That’s some weird logic. If you’re buying used, the more it depreciates before you buy it the better. Let the first owner pay the price for that new car smell. Assuming no issues, why on earth would I want to pay more for the same quality used car?

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  • [–] 2 points 7 hours ago* (1 child)

    Oh no, you're not getting me, I love depreciation. Re-read the first sentence.

    Yes, it’s a good thing for buying a very used car.

    Depreciation doesn't stop after 2 years. If you're the second owner of a lightly used car you intend to sell before the battery and powertrain warranty is over (as most do with EVs, at least here), you still get a fuckton of depreciation happening in the next few years with an EV, less so with ICE. If you're looking at something older, the extra depreciation benefits you a lot.

    Personally I'm waiting for good 7-8 year old EVs to exist that are not Teslas. We're just a few years out from that for many popular models, at which point you can have the car of your dreams for 20k. For cars that were 100k new. If you get one that's 2 years old, it might still be 60-70k. Once that 100k car is around 20k, there's so little left to drop, you give no fucks. Even in my country there are now EV shops that will repair battery packs instead of replacing them so a few years of warranty isn't worth paying tens of thousands more for a car if you can probably get a battery pack repaired for <=5k in the very unlikely event that it fails. I'm not talking about gradual degradation, that's natural and not a big deal IMO with modern battery packs, I'm talking about actual sudden cell failure that leaves the car as a paperweight.

    I've been looking at Jaguar I-Pace as I consider these sufficiently depreciated (can have one for ~15k), but I'm not a huge fan of crossovers and I dislike that most have no tow hitch and even if they do, they're rated to tow only 750 kg.

    And to clarify while normally under "very used" I would mean 15 years or so, which is about what it takes an ICE vehicle to become properly cheap, for EVs this is slightly less, as you can get them super cheap at, like I said, ~7-8 years already.

    I just meant that buying one that's 2-3 years old is still hella stupid because the next few years will continue to be brutal.

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  • [–] 1 point 4 hours ago

    Still not following. You’d rather buy a 7 year old car that’s depreciated the same amount as a 2 year old car, regardless of any difference in quality of the two? I’m out the same amount either way and in EVs I’d rather have the more modern tech.

    You seem much more into looks than pure cost of ownership anyway. Which to each their own but I can’t fathom talking about price and then targeting luxury brands. Even used, you’ve got higher maintenance costs than the standard brands. EVs still need tires, windshields, etc and even off brand parts for luxury are a lot more expensive.

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  • [–] 1 point 10 hours ago (1 child)

    That's a ton of assumptions that I think do not hold any real water. The smartest car purchase for most urban or suburban commuters in the US (and likely most other car dependent countries) is a used EV. The best ones have heavily depreciated because of the top 10% churning their cars, they have 80-90% of their battery range (which most people don't even need), and they cost almost nothing to own and operate.

    I would argue no one should be buying a car with the intention of selling it later, because all cars depreciate terribly (COVID was a very unique circumstance).

    The warranty does not care about the value of the car, it's only for parts and repair so what you said doesn't make any sense.

    Your other point is if you buy a depreciating asset with a loan and then lose your income you'll have a hard time paying off that loan. That's literally true for everything in the world. No one should be buying a car they can't afford, and definitely not with a loan they can't safely afford. There's always refinancing which would in your hypothetical would always be a better move as again the ongoing cost of an EV is something like 1/6th or 1/10th of a gas car.

    I think you're giving terrible advice and have been given very bad information.

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  • [–] 1 point 7 hours ago

    The best ones have heavily depreciated

    Yes, like I said, actually used cars. Not something that's 2-3 years old. Those still have a ton left to lose.

    I would argue no one should be buying a car with the intention of selling it later, because all cars depreciate terribly

    They all do, but unless you want to be stuck with the same car until it literally dies, you're selling it. If you're buying a fairly new car, you're likely not planning on keeping it for 20 years, because if you're ok with driving a 20 year old car, you should just buy a 10 year old car and drive that for 10. And if you are planning to sell in about 5 years, which is what most people keep their cars for, used or not, wouldn't you want the one that loses 30-40% of its remaining value in that time, over the one that loses 60-70%?

    The warranty does not care about the value of the car, it’s only for parts and repair so what you said doesn’t make any sense.

    Unfortunately it does for some manufacturers of nice heavily depreciated EVs I'm eyeing ctrl+f "current value". I'm sure others will be following suit. Guy on reddit got told to piss off by dealer because battery replacement was going to cost 60k pounds and car worth 40k or less. Basically put up 20k of your own money to get a warranty job done, ridiculous. This with the manufacturer deciding the price of the battery in the first place because LG or whoever sure as shit doesn't charge them anywhere close to that amount.

    No one should be buying a car they can’t afford, and definitely not with a loan they can’t safely afford.

    And yet most people do. So when you've got 15k left to pay on your car and get laid off with only 6 months of income saved up (which is about 100x more in savings than the average person in some countries like the US) and have no idea if you'll get a new job in 3 months or 2 years, would you rather the market value of your car be 20k or 12k?

    There's always refinancing

    Yes, pay even more money by extending your loan. On something that's already underwater. This is why Americans for example are so fucked with vehicle debt. Many of them roll negative equity into their next loan, and the one after that and... you get the point. Soon the loan principals get much bigger than the cars are worth. Made worse by ever longer loans terms that are designed to sucker you into exactly that.

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  • [–] 59 points 1 day ago (22 children)

    If you consider depreciation

    Maybe I'm weird, but I never consider depreciation. If the car is worth anything more than scrap value, it's not yet time for a new car.

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  • [–] 1 point 12 hours ago

    Then assume straight line depreciation between the car brand new and the car when it is scrap. If a $60,000 car lasts 20 years and you own it the whole time, you can consider the depreciation to be $3000/year if you'd like.

    Either way, at the end of the car's useful life you need to be prepared to pony up more money to buy the next one.

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  • [–] 36 points 1 day ago

    I drove a 20+ year old car up until I had a kid, and suddenly I started to care about those safety features from the previous 20 years (like airbags and crumple zone improvements).

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  • [–] 6 points 1 day ago (5 children)

    Unfortunately, you can't ignore depreciation. It's rarely possible to actually drive a car into the dirt, as they can last for hundreds of thousands of miles if properly maintained.

    Even if you intend to drive the car into the ground, you usually can't. Every time you get on the road it's a roll of the dice. Over enough time, eventually you roll snake eyes. You can be the best driver in the world, you can't beat physics. If someone pulls out of a parking lot right in front of you, you're going to crash. You can't skill your way out of minimum stopping distance.

    And this happens, depreciation matters regardless of your choices. The insurance company is going to offer you a settlement based on the depreciated value of the vehicle. Sure, in theory you could say, "well, they gave me the value of a 10 year old car, so I'm just going to buy another copy of the same car I just totaled!" But that rarely works in practice. Once they get that old, you really have to worry if the old owner took care of it properly or not. Driving a car into the dirt works well when you can be the original owner and know that the maintenance has been kept up with.

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  • [–] [S] 3 points 10 hours ago* (1 child)

    All cars get driven to the ground. You save money by being the only owner, and not changing car every 3 years. In that case, depreciation is irrelevant. Your insurance case is far from being average.

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  • [–] 6 points 20 hours ago

    I said I'd drive my first car until the wheels fell off.

    Well, one day it actually did, coming around a bend on a highway. Fortunately there weren't many other people driving out at the time. I ended up flipping it over on the embankment, single-car collision.

    I stayed true to my word. Never fucking said it about another car since.

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  • [–] 14 points 1 day ago (18 children)

    I got a new 2025 ID. BUZZ for 63k a few weeks back. Any EV with that many seats is expensive and hard to find on our used market here. I think that was a decent price considering initially it retailed around 90K

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  • [–] 1 point 2 hours ago

    My sister has my old leaf and 2 kids. The leaf is the household car. The grocery getter. The child fetcher. When they announced the buzz she wanted one so goddamn bad. It’s the return of the minivan in electric form. Exactly what she wants but alas cannot afford.

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