I've been using Fastmail for a while now, and I like it. Clean interface, good apps, and lots of support for CALDAV (including tasks!). Frankly a much better interface than many other providers. I was also tired of using Thunderbird with my hosting provider's email.
I spent quite a while looking for a good email provider as well. Proton didn't work for similar reasons, and I didn't like having to use the bridge on Linux. I settled on Fastmail as it's cheap, and does what I need (email, calendar, tasks).
I wasn't excited that they have servers in the US (they're an Australian company), but I had to make a compromise to degoogle. "Perfection is the enemy of progress" is a common phrase for me.
I'm interested to see what other opinions come up though.