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Loophole (lemmy.world)
submitted 11 months ago by to c/adhd@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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[–] 5 points 11 months ago (1 child)

Mood. I have a dozen stalled projects waiting on me to calibrate my 3D printer after I upgraded it (another project).

One of these days I'll finish my whole home HAL9000 project.

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  • [–] 3 points 11 months ago (1 child)

    Can you break up the calibrating process into shorter steps? I'm mostly unfamiliar with 3D printing, what's all involved?

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  • [–] 2 points 11 months ago* (2 children)

    Kinda, but they all need to be done before I can start printing again. I replaced the entire hot-end, so I basically have to redo everything:

    • Rotation distance (distance traveled per one rotation of motor)
    • Hot-end PID calibration (controls heating)
    • Z-offset (how far above the bed the nozzle is from when the z-stop triggers)
    • Resonance compensation (printing fast can cause ghosting in the prints from resonance frequency)
    • Pressure advance (reduces nozzle ooze)

    And all of that is just so I can print a mount to use a magnetic z-stop (normal is contact probe), then I get to do it all over again.

    Then I need to do temperature and acceleration towers for each filament material.

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  • [–] 1 point 11 months ago (1 child)

    Must the magnetic z-stop mount be printed on your machine specifically?

    If yes; do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by xmas

    If no; print one at a local makerspace/public library then do a calibration step or two each week and you'll be done by Thanksgiving!

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  • [–] 2 points 11 months ago

    I mean, it doesn't have to be, but printing upgrades for your printer is part of the fun. But my job does have a maker space I could use.

    Honestly the calibration would only take an hour or so, I just have to get around to it. The longest part will be setting up Klipper on my pi4 to replace the less powerful ODROID I'm currently using, because I plan on starting from scratch with the config.

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