@Drew @pine64 @osmand I think I used that Osmand~ at some point, though I paid for Osmand+ long ago since I use it so much. I think the Pro subscription (required for the devices plugin) is a separate thing that needs a continuing subscription. I could probably find a way to unlock it for free, like by building the plugin myself. But the subscription isn't really that much considering the value I get from Osmand, so I don't mind paying and helping support the project.

@vikingtons Turn by turn, like navigation directions? I don't use that, and the few times I've tried it with OsmAnd it hasn't worked very well. I use it for recording tracks, and looking at the map to see where I am or where I might want to go next. I love looking at maps and don't really need an app to tell me when to turn (and half my hikes are on unmapped trails anyway, so nav wouldn't work in any app). YMMV.

@quickenparalysespunk It's the only one I know about, but there could be lots I don't know about. Adafruit has a not-quite-built one, but it's much more expensive and I don't think it has much of a community around it.