u/Midyew59 · 2025-06-20 03:57:21 UTC · score 7
Win key+ Shift + S.
Learn it, live it, love it.
C'mon people, Stop taking pictures of your desktop with a phone.
u/TresCeroOdio · 2024-10-22 12:45:56 UTC · score 3
Seeing this much post-release acknowledgment and support is not common in this sector. Good on yall for acknowledging issues and getting ahead of things.
u/Vivid_Database551 · 2025-01-18 04:16:52 UTC · score 1
how does the lo-point run for you ?
as bad as people say or .. ?
u/rebornfenix · 2025-01-17 16:39:02 UTC · score 2
I Hate it....... Needs a 9mm version
u/Even-Calligrapher-73 · 2025-03-31 00:28:10 UTC · score 2
Nozzle temps at 300c, bed temps at 50c, no fan, 30 to 50mms speed. I print on textured PEI with amazon purple gluestick.
I switched from Cura 5.9 to Orca slicer, and it made a huge difference in time and print quality. Everything is a little different.
u/cuban11182 · 2025-06-28 22:45:23 UTC · score 1
Sounds good. Thank you!
u/Dazzling-Hunt8200 · 2025-02-18 03:44:22 UTC · score 2
Yes, on the newer version there is only one headspace screw.
The looser means the hole that the back of the firing pin seats in is either looser or tighter. The tight really needs to be press fit and maybe filed out to fit and allow JB Weld. The looser was better option for me.
I shortened the ass end on my build, and cut a different guide rod. That being the case, I didn't even look at guide rod jigs, so can't help you there.
u/BuckABullet · 2025-05-27 18:47:33 UTC · score 1
Printed cans don't seem to heat up the way metal cans do. They aren't that thermally conductive and have low thermal mass. What I have seen on here leads me to believe that strength is more important than temperature resistance for printed cans, but a side by side comparison will be the best way to learn for sure.
u/MakeItMakeItMakeIt · 2024-12-29 11:41:42 UTC · score 6
ChairManWon V3 43X in Griptape texture with Fuzzy Skin 0.1/0.1
Printed on a Qidi Q1 Pro on a 0.6 nozzle in Fiberon PPS-CF10, dried at 100C for 10hrs.
Chamber open and unheated,, bed at 80C, nozzle at 330/310C, Speed at 60mms across the board, Tree Support Organic, oriented rails up with the magwell edge flush to the plate, about 5° nose up overall.
Annealed at 127C (255F) for 16hrs.
No moisture conditioning needed.
Highest temp resistance, impervious to moisture, pretty darn stiff, rivaled in stiffness only by dry PA6-CF20.
And it goes tink-tink when you tap it, almost a metallic sound.
Yeah, I'll keep it.
Final image is a 43X in PA6-CF and the latest in PPS-CF10
Originally posted by u/Admirable_Scholar_36 at 2025-06-30T19:54:59Z
Sorry for lack of updates, finished my degree. After making a few barrels I changed the trunnion mount, rather than using pins, you can use flat bar, and file the receiving channel on the barrel to fit them. Again, this uses no existing gun parts, and you can ECM the barrel. You will need a drill press to making the screw holes in the receiver plates, but I am also working on jigs with drill bushings and printed housings to make the drilling process repeatable and accurate. Feel free to ask any questions.
Source: https://b.thumbs.redditmedia.com/RM_q2Co7K7eyfQtHT0imzGTsKa9x6MUGQcFLsV-N26U.jpg
Originally posted by u/binaryalias01 at 2025-06-30T18:43:54Z
[removed]
Source: https://a.thumbs.redditmedia.com/QnlCyQ1XptvoP3xqOxJY7hJ6FMMALU8tfqlg9MhH7a0.jpg
Originally posted by u/N3oxity at 2025-06-30T17:39:45Z
Hello, I just wanted to start this post glazing u/Pfunk117 for introducing the wackmack, one of only functioning super safe mac11 builds I have found in the sea. I have tossed hundreds of dollars into other super safe mac11 DB9 derivatives all for them not to work and destroy my barrel.
My upper is a VMAC 11".
Now for my main issue, I was using my wackmack as normal on the range and dumped 120 rounds through it for 3 days. Keep in mind, the only range ammo I used when running this gun was Remington and Blazer FMJ's. I let one of my friends try out my weapon on the range and he loaded some Winchester Full Metal Jacket Flat Nose target rounds through my gun and it exploded leaving this.
The bullet was stuck in the barrel and the rim of the brass shell was also stuck in the chamber. I asked the RSO for a push rod to clear my barrel and they pointed something concerning to my attention after clearing the barrel. The RSO pointed out that some metal chipping in my barrel that looked like my barrel liner chipped out and flaked but I'm not certain.
I was going to see if I could simply remove the material sticking up, but I think I may need to swap the barrel.
chambered sim rounds with burrs
Things that I hypothesize causing this issue:
I would love assistance and feedback for my next steps on what I should do from here. I would also want to know how this issue happened and what I can do to prevent this from happening (like not letting other people shoot my guns).
Source: https://a.thumbs.redditmedia.com/FWnu8op7xWKo7g4E-2YK7actM-1ID0Dbj7Gh-goCNp4.jpg
Originally posted by u/Happy_Conflict9667 at 2025-06-30T16:25:12Z
Unable to replace my printer but wanting to get into nylon and similar filaments i want to upgrade my printer. Replaced hotend with this but am still limited to 260c please help!!
u/Black_Harfoot · 2022-09-17 22:49:39 UTC · score 29
defcad is trash and most definitely not foss
u/hellowiththepudding · 2025-01-28 12:09:47 UTC · score 1
The poor man’s temperature mod is to print slow as shit so that the nozzle and filament reach as hot as possible. This is neat though - guessing it works on the P1s also?