Did you actually try it? The scrape looks like it only hit the mask and not the traces (though it’s not the best picture).

Based on the location I would bet that’s a decoupling/bypass cap for the cpu voltage regulator. I would bet it still works if this is the case but you might get some weird issues or instability under load (or you might get lucky and it was designed with redundancy but I don’t think so that close to the socket). This assumes no traces broke, of course

Steps to fix with a $10 multimeter and a basic fine tip soldering iron: Check traces - follow them to each end and probe in diode/continuity mode. If you place a probe on either end and it beeps you’re good. If you get a $10 jewelers loupe or usb microscope you can also visually inspect but the continuity test is better. You may have to expose some of those vias (the holes at the end), a $3 fiberglass pen will do this.

Substep - fix trace if needed. This is more challenging but not terribly hard with a bit of practice. Expose the via as described above, expose a bit of the trace (or another via/pad), and solder fine wire (32 gauge magnet wire) to either side. Apply uv mask after to protect it from breaking and shorts. Keep the wire as short as possible to avoid emi. Alternatively you can rebuild the trace with copper tape or conductive epoxy but this is much more difficult.

If the traces are fine boot and stress test. See what happens. Maybe it was part of an array and is redundant and you’re lucky. Also look on badcaps.net and see if you can get a board view, if it’s popular you might get lucky. If you’re really lucky it was never populated to begin with. If it was you’ll get the value at least and smd caps are like $1 for 20 (plus $8 shipping, oof)

If there are issues for the missing cap. Smd soldering isn’t super easy but this is probably the simplest repair in smd soldering. Reflow the pads, clean and tin the tip of the iron, hold the cap in place with tweezers, tap each side until solder flows and locks the cap in. You’ll probably need to add a touch (read: extremely small amount) of solder, just tack the sides down first and then reflow to add more solder if necessary. The board view may show it’s unpopulated, then you’re done.

If you can’t find a board view you can measure some of the other caps around. Get a $20 lcr meter or get a slightly better multimeter that can measure capacitance. Measure the caps around it. If you’re consistently getting similar values (100nf, 1uf, 4.7uf or 10uf would be common here) then you can probably go with that. If the values are wildly different you’ll have to take them out of circuit, lift one leg from the board and measure again. If you get a bunch of similar readings (like 4.7uf) it’s pretty safe to just go with that

If you’re gonna trash the board anyway might as well give repairing it a shot. It’s not as hard as it sounds. Practice on some junk boards if you’re truly new to soldering. You can also find someone who does pcb rework but unless that board is shockingly expensive it’s probably not worth the money vs replacing, at least if you live in the USA