3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: [email protected] or [email protected]
There are CAD communities available at: [email protected] or [email protected]
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe/ may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
My buddy has a cold plunge and this filter started cracking. After looking at it you can tell it's definitely 3d printed (and well)
On the left you can see my first attempt. I just cut rectangular holes in CAD and it's pretty close but not pretty. Printed in PETG on a K1 Max
Is there a way to do this in the slicer instead? I played around with 0 walls and different infill types but that didn't work out
That's a lot of retractions. What is this filtering? Maybe you could print a more open structure and line it in mesh?
Also, where is this part in relation to chlorine? I can't imagine a printed part would hold up very well in high chlorine concentrations, but PETG is fairly inert...
I might be tempted to try turning on 'fuzzy skin' printing above a layer height, for Prusaslicer, if you have a fairly large gap and wide skin thickness it can create an almost-open-weave to it. I used that for some grow baskets for aeroponic racks as well as a lamp shade. The trick there is to print in spiral mode as well.
but I think given the bottom profile, it would have to be done in separate parts- a cylinder for the actual filter, and a cap on either end. ( you can also turn on a skirt for adhesion, which is also useful as a flange for securing it into a cap. basically, there's a recess that it fits in, then a threaded ring screws into that recess.)
edit: here's a screen grab of a quick mock up in prusa.... using a calibration cube (20x20x50mm) using a layer height change to turn off perimeters, infill and turn on fuzzy skin with a point-distance of .6 and a tickness of 1mm. (default .4mm nozzle. yes, that makes a difference on the skin.) It creates a realtively 'open' structure where the layers intersect somewhat randomly while jogging back and forth (think of it as being like a wicker basket,)
it's important to remember when replicating things that they don't have to be necessarily exactly what your replacing. really it just needs to fit in the same space and do the same job.
I like this suggestion. 3d printing can help with the form factor but creating a mesh filter is a solved problem - why struggle to reproduce that part of it?
Petg should be good for at least a year otherwise asa or pvc should work but they can be difficult to print. According to dr gpt
I hope you meant PLA. Printing in PVC is a hilariously bad idea unless you do it inside a lab grade fume extractor or something. There's a reason barely anyone makes PVC filament.
PVC releases chlorine when heated which is not only incredibly harmful for you, but will also oxidize with and corrode all the metal parts in your printer and probably eventually embrittle its plastic parts as well. This is also why you should not make bongs out of PVC.
I suspect they meant ABS given ASA is also in their reply. No idea how good either material would be in this application, I just don't think it's possible to print PVC.